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  #41  
Old 11-23-2017, 10:26 PM
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Marcus. I am not sure about that, I made the parts over a month ago now. I was thinking about that also when I wrote this post.
Hope I understand your question. Guess you are seeing that the marks from the stretcher don't go all the way up to the first bend? The
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  #42  
Old 11-24-2017, 04:31 AM
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I'm presuming some compression must be happening in the area above the area shrunk. Therefore it would hold the radius afterwards. Like when you do the same on a flange and then cut away the edge where it was shrunk or stretched to get the shape.
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  #43  
Old 11-24-2017, 11:46 AM
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Marcus I don't recall having lost any of the shape. Actually this part was stretched to get shape. so would agree that the stretch goes beyond the marks left from the stretcher.

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  #44  
Old 01-01-2018, 06:11 PM
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WOW how time flys, been over a month, so here is some more on the project. I needed to get #6 tacked up so that I could finish #4 next to it. Screws were used to mount the old section of the part back in place. Lapped the new part over the original, aligned, scribed, trimmed and Tig. tack welded to old section.

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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 01-03-2018 at 03:18 PM.
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  #45  
Old 01-01-2018, 08:24 PM
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Nice work, Steve. The tutorial is well defined.
I will be following this.
Happy New Year.
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  #46  
Old 01-02-2018, 08:18 AM
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Nice work my friend. You are both clever and resourceful.
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  #47  
Old 01-03-2018, 03:44 PM
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thanks guys

I added the pics to post #44 above.

I showed making part # 4 earlier, but since it is overlapped by #6 the end needed to be joggled (offset) one metal thickness to keep the surfaces even. a couple of cuts with a thin cut off disc, put the joggle in and weld it back together.

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Align, scribe, cut and grind if needed for a good fit. then tack weld in place.

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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 01-03-2018 at 03:50 PM.
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  #48  
Old 01-03-2018, 05:05 PM
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Now to make the corner #9, two pieces required to get that much shape in a small panel. Started by making a tag board pattern , traced it on the steel. My thinking here was to get the correct arc for the tip to make the flange. I also left extra material away from the flange to keep the part from twisting as well as a place to hang on to while forming it.

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The top half was made by creasing & tipping a flange. linear stretching was required to get the proper angle in the flange, and also the correct radius in the top surface.

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The lower half was made by cutting out a rectangle, bending it in the brake, and shrinking the lower flange. The other flange required some linear stretch as to get the part to match the original.

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Part #2 that was roughed out earlier was trimmed, fit up and Tacked in place. this kept some strength and shape in the whole part and provided the needed match up surface that I needed.

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Some scribe & trim action and they are ready to be welded.

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after the welding and planishing I needed to do some shrink and stretch work to correct the crease arc. Lastly a picture showing the general progress. The elephant is getting smaller with each bite!!!

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  #49  
Old 01-03-2018, 06:08 PM
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Part # 12 was rather simple, but required information from the drivers side of the car, the flange was completely rusted away. Tag board pattern and information for the joggle were used. don't remember if I used the tipping wheel or the pullmax either would get the job done.

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  #50  
Old 01-03-2018, 06:32 PM
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Part # 8 was not too difficult, but with a arced joggle needed to be made in two parts. the small joggle was made on the pullmax first then The 90* flange was done with the brake. the curve was put in by stretching the flange and some gentle tapping on the small joggle on a shot bag. The lower section bent on the brake and shrunk to the correct shape.

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ready to be welded.

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Back side, guess I should have taken more pictures.


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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 01-07-2018 at 11:38 AM.
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