#31
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BTW, "tig" rod = "gas" rod, unless it is a particular alloy not given to gas welding. I butt weld my aluminum rods together.... if the dia is over .063. I just leave the short stump to go solid in the weld pool and add the new rod onto it, and go back to heating the weld. For long welds of many feet in length it is convenient for me.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#32
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Filler wire 'birdsnest'
A question please for perhaps Kent or other folk using O/A filler wire from a mig mini spool.
I repurposed some steel trunnions I'd made for a hammerform bracket and machined up a stepped and threaded axle to bolt them together to support the spool. However, as I kind of suspected would happen, once I freed the end of the wire from the spool side, the internal tensions of everything caused the spool to birdsnest. I've kind of got a solution in mind, but would be useful to understand how others have regulated the spool in use. Thanks. 20190623_115354.jpg
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#33
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Hi,
For my 5356 MIG wire spool, I use a velcro strap that has the hook and loop on both sides, so I can cover the spool with a strap to prevent the bird nest For the 5356 and 1100 wire that comes on a spool, I pull out 18 inches or so of wire, heat it, flux it and re-wrap on the spool. This allows me to use the spool as a handle and feed out as needed, pre fluxed wire. If I'm running long beads to 5356 can have a mind of its own when it comes off the spool. So I will pull off a piece 2-3 feet long, chuck one end in a drill and the other end of the wire in a vice and twist it. The wire will become straight, like Tig filler rod, flux and go. Hope it helps, Bill
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Bill Tromblay "A sign of a good machinist, is one who can fix his F$@& Ups" My mentor and friend, Gil Zietz Micro Metric Machine. |
#34
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Add two points of friction: I use "washer" of foam sheet on each side of the spool to lightly tension against unspooling. And I added a 2inch length of 1/4in dia tension spring ... mounted through a drilled hole in a little bracket of aluminum, and the bracket spans the feed side of the roll. The wire exits through the spring and thus can go up/down/left/right to follow you, while adding enough friction to keep the wire from retreating and unwinding around the spool. I made a few of these "spool feeders" for the shop. Some taped on the side of the car. Some magnetic to the steel body. Some too dang heavy to upset or drag off the perch. And one so light I could spring-clip it to horizontal panel work. One was sideways, with the axle long on one side, and it just bunged into a drilled hole on a horizontal surface - stool, torch set, bench, table, and whirled off the wire as needed. I guess I've just been doing this way too long. (Even got advise from the protoshop guys at FMC.)
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#35
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#36
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Thanks again for the ideas Kent - bit of foam either side of the spool, bit of 2.0mm ali and the outer end from a broken motorcycle clutch cable. This has a plastic liner as well as the spiral curtain wire thing.
I think that if I hadn't bird nested this spool, the tension would be about right. 20190623_154332.jpg
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
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