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Old 08-24-2019, 05:48 AM
snedboy snedboy is offline
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Default Stump Shaping Question

Hi guys. Noob question coming.


I'm just about finished making my shrinking stump (I went for 8x2 and 4x1 cones). My question is do I need to completely smooth everything? There are some drill holes and saw cuts left behind but smoothing them will make the cones non symetrical. Also how smooth does it need to be? I've used 40 grit to get it to this stage

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Last edited by snedboy; 08-24-2019 at 05:58 AM.
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Old 08-24-2019, 02:08 PM
dwmh dwmh is offline
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Paul
I'm no expert, but don't think you need it any smoother, The act of shrinking puts tucks into the metal which are then hammered down, so you end up with a rough finish, which is then planished out, so having a smooth stump doesn't help. In fact you want the wood to grip the metal while hammering the tuck in, so a polished surface would be a hindrance. My stump is finished as the chainsaw disc left it. However I am happy to stand corrected.
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Old 08-24-2019, 02:19 PM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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David's right. Many hammer blows tune the wooden log.
EW smoothing is important. Wood you have a very good.
You must have the right hammer and a durable hand and good vizion.
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Old 03-08-2020, 06:28 PM
ken from Peterborough ken from Peterborough is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snedboy View Post
Hi guys. Noob question coming.


I'm just about finished making my shrinking stump (I went for 8x2 and 4x1 cones). My question is do I need to completely smooth everything? There are some drill holes and saw cuts left behind but smoothing them will make the cones non symetrical. Also how smooth does it need to be? I've used 40 grit to get it to this stage

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Hi snedboy, I just joined this site, there's so much to learn and so many projects ideas to copy from. my very next project is to make the same tree stump anvil like yours, I'll find a stump once the snow melt a bit but was wondering what would be the quickest way to achieve a 5" divot,.

I'll most likely drill holes from let's say 5/8" to 1/8" starting from the center toward the edge of the concave, then use a chisel to knock down/flatten the holes and then sand with a small 2" sander or something, is that more or less how you did yours?

Another thought I've had is to make that dishing anvil out of a gas bottle , saw it on one of Billsmetal you-tube video.the problem is to find an old tank good enough for the project.
Anyhow, I still think the tree stump anvil is easier, thanks for the inspiration.
Ken.
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Old 03-08-2020, 06:44 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Agreeing with David and Jaro .... smooth enough for hammering.
I always recommend soaking both ends in an oil drain pan with a gallon of boiled linseed oil, 2-3 days per end. Stops checking and splittting. Hammering the endgrain is better, also, as fiber density nudges up a bit with oil saturation closing the voids. (might be a ref. here on utility poles?: https://wfs.swst.org/index.php/wfs/article/view/2876.)
I'm on my 11th stump now. Best one so far.
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Old 03-09-2020, 02:12 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Kent. 11 stump. Do you think it would be possible to determine the age of a stump by the number of strokes, like similar to annual rings?
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Old 03-09-2020, 10:57 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
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Kent. 11 stump. Do you think it would be possible to determine the age of a stump by the number of strokes, like similar to annual rings?

Yes, counting rings for age when cut.
Number and size of cracks/splits, burn marks and overall damage indicates age when used - and depth of bug sawdust around the base - another reason for linseed soaking.
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