#31
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have to let you know next time we have a garrage crawl have a few sheds you mite like
Cheers Gavin |
#32
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Quote:
Jim
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. |
#33
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I have done some more on the rear clip.
I started on the rear panel, as it is Christmas most suppliers are closed so I couldn’t get any paper to make a pattern so I used an old bed sheet (cotton). I have used this before and as the cotton dosnt stretch it gets you close.
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. |
#34
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After wheeling the panel I started to make the centre grill section.
I sort of got into trouble on this part. This was the first attempt and my approach. I cut the sheet with all the flanges attached. I used the bead roller to turn the flanges, the centre is removed out of the sheet at a final stage but you must relieve the sheet with a cut so the flange in the centre will remain without destroying it. These are earlier shots before it went belly up. The issue is the corners due to the depth off the flange 40mm in one section and 25 mm along the other, the side flanges taper from 40 to 25. I found I just had to much metal and access to use the shrinker was limited as the rads are to tight. In the end I gave up on it and decided on another approch and that was to make all the flanges in the shinker and peice it all together. It didnt take long to wake up that that had its issues when shrinking a tight rad so that went in the scrap as well. I my mind this was a messy to many sections method so it was a good thing in the long run.
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. Last edited by ozi jim; 12-29-2012 at 06:15 AM. |
#35
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Third attempt back to plan A with a mod to the corners.
I made the same panel as the first attempt but without the corner sections. After bead rolling the flanges to the required angle I cut patterns and fitted them separately. I did have some clean up but it got it done. After making the panel I think a panel as per the first attempt but cut a cheese slice in the corner and bring it together after bringing the flanges up would have ½ the welding and clean up. I used the b/roller to put a drop in the side vent sections,the floor will be cut out later so as to leave an inner flange .
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. Last edited by ozi jim; 12-29-2012 at 09:08 AM. |
#36
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This is a fitup to size the vent hole.
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. |
#37
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Welded in the the vent after cutting the hole to the correct size.
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. |
#38
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After the welding I did a clean up, The centre panel was removed.
I shaped the inner flange on the top and bottom to the shape required . On the outer edges of the inner hole running vertical there are 2 spar sections that run at a taper top to bottom. Its not a shape I can fold so I used a section of 10mm flatbar as a die. I welded it to the press fitting, I then pressed it into the die rubber and got the shape I was looking for. These were cut to size using patterns then welded in. I still have the # plate area and t/lamp pockets then thats that finished.
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. Last edited by ozi jim; 12-29-2012 at 09:10 AM. |
#39
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I have a question.
It has occured to me some time ago that because of the shape on this car it was produced in split moulds as per the originals. I would like to weld the body sections together on the frame but at the final it wont come of the frame. I would like to keep the frame in case I stick the car into a wall. So cutting it is not high on my list. I have thought of flanges that bolt together in areas then weld them to the wire frame and cut the wire between them allowing seperation or splitting. Has any one got a better suggestion.
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Nothing is to hard its just how much time you want to give it. |
#40
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thank you for showing what worked and what did not work for your rear panel. great post!
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Brent Click |
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