#11
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I worked with a Porsche (935) race team in 1982 and their weld guy used that method for sharpening tungs.
Seems okay and the chem does not seem to affect Fe, AL, SiBr and etc. don't know the limits, but maybe Ti would reflect the chem in the welds? He used it because it was a "clean" shop with no abrasives used at all.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#12
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Quote:
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Nat Seviour, owner/director at Retropower Ltd, general metalbasher! |
#13
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dedicated sharpener.
I bought a cheap 4 1/2 $ 10 grinder from Harbor freight, and the replacement diamond disc for their chain saw sharpener, I used a Unibit to drill the disc out to fit the grinder. and the $ 20 drill and flashlight. I drilled a couple holes in the grinder guard, poke the tungsden thru a hole to guide it and spin slowly to keep the grind marks the right direction.
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Tim |
#14
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I use the Chem. sharpening for mild steel. Snap on makes a jar that's quick and easy. Heat your tungsten and dip it in 3 or 4 times. Not a lot of fumes with that brand, but I also have a exhaust fan where I weld. Obviously doesn't work for aluminum. Has its benefits.
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Randy |
#15
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I have a bottle of this in my shop i bought many years ago. I liked the ideal initially but quickly returned to grinding or sanding my tungstens.
I think a diamond tungsten grinder would be nice. I saw one years back for sale on kijiji ( Canada) should have bought it. Shaun
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Shaun |
#16
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Quote:
Yeah, my bottle sits too. 1982 vintage. I use a belt sander. (No grooves are left behind by the previous Cro Magnon that way.)
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#17
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Best I found are worn out 2" Roloc discs that used to be 36 grit then, having ground to needle sharpness, polish off the dust on your shirt and you're good to go.
Will
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Here to learn. William Pointer |
#18
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I put shorter tungstens in a cordless drill. Spin it medium speed grinding against your wheel -belt lengthwise. Does a great job.
Andy Geelhoed(guesswork)
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Andy |
#19
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Could it be a method for more spike durability? And purity?
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Jaroslav |
#20
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Chem sharp images
As I mentioned, I find Chemsharp most useful when I get a new box, especially bigger ones. There is a greyish film after Chemsharp. Usually, i will put a quick grind on before I use them. If you dip it in the chemsharp long enough it will put a pretty sharp point. I have welded right out of the Chemsharp and not noticed any big difference in the arc. In the picture the top one has been ground, the bottom two are right out of Chemsharp. 1/8" Thoriated.
chemsharp2.jpg
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Bill Funk |
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