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  #11  
Old 01-08-2010, 07:57 PM
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Marty Comstock Marty Comstock is offline
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Most dollys I have seen are not hard. Dont need to be to do quality work. Having hard hammers, slappers or dollys simply makes it longer between times you have to clean them up.

For what it is worth... Only once have i used a leaf spring slapper and have it feel good to use. Most of what I have used were unbalanced and or too heavy. Just one fellers expierences.

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  #12  
Old 01-08-2010, 08:40 PM
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The reason I first started recommending a ballpeen hammer to folks was that people have a hard time (at first) mastering stretching small low spots up by using the on-dolly technique. A ballpeen raises low spots quickly and easily. You can see the little lump form on the surface and adjust where you hit as you go. You then smooth the lumps with hammer and dolly, hit with the shrinking disc and repeat whatever steps are necessary. A ballpeen hammer does not hurt the surface of the metal, most people have one in their shop, and the technique is as fool proof as they come.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2010, 01:54 PM
slantback37 slantback37 is offline
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So would I use the peen part of the hammer behind the dent, and one of those slapping hammers over the top to pull up the low??
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2010, 07:29 PM
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Hi Al,

That would be off dolly work using the ballpeen as the dolly. I'm talking about directly hitting the low spot up ... the same as with a pick hammer, but with better results.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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  #15  
Old 01-09-2010, 08:25 PM
slantback37 slantback37 is offline
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I always seem to pick the lows to high.. I bought a contour gauge so that I can make the dented side the same as the side that isn't. I would love to not use bondo. After seeing how those flat slapping hamers work, and then use a shrinking disc.. Maybe I wouldn't have to use bondo at all..
I also need to know more about hitting the welds after tacking.. I have a mig welder that I am trying to figure out. Most of my welds looked like rat poop. I increased form welding for 18-16 gauge to welding 16-12 gauge. It seems to not burn threw so fast, and looks better. I never got the argon kit with the welder so I don't have it. Another site told me back when to start at a end to make a tack. Then go to the other end and make a tack. I like this way better of starting in the center and working outfrom both sides. After I make a tack. Should I just set the handle down and put a dolly behind the weld and flatten it out with a hammer?? Al
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:06 AM
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Hi Al,

Gas welding is preferable, but if you are going to mig weld, look up Randy Ferguson's welding article. You need to grind the weld before stretching it.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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  #17  
Old 01-10-2010, 11:16 AM
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Al, I believe this is the article John has recommended your read. I think this article is extremely helpful too.
http://fergusoncoachbuilding.blogspot.com/
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  #18  
Old 01-10-2010, 12:44 PM
slantback37 slantback37 is offline
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That was good.. Thanks. The mig is all I have. others told me to just keep jumping around and keep placing tacks. All of the tacks should cover the work. I do right now 3-6 tacks. Getting from the center to both ends. Then I was just grinding the surface down, and putting in more tacks. Now I see that I can still do my tacks, but now I can grind the tack down some, and hammer and dolly the tack before going on to making a 1" weld. I hope this is right?? Al
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