Wheeling or Tracking marks

[The Old Tinbasher]

I'm just starting to wheel panels and I keep getting tracking marks in the panels. Who can I reduce or smooth these marks out.Aug 16 05.jpg

The Old Tinbasher

[Kerry Pinkerton]

Tracking marks have several causes. Usually too aggressive anvils and too much pressure is the culprit.

Out of round anvils and wimpy frames can also contribute to tracking marks. True radius anvils are more prone to tracks than contact flat anvils.

In any case, you should normally use the flatest anvil that will fit INSIDE the shape you're making. As the shape increases, you will progress to tighter and tighter anvils.

[Einar_S]

Your eye can detect tiny track marks. When they are down to a certain smoothness the remaining can be sanded out. If the shape is right additional wheeling may give a better surface but bring it out of shape again.

Then we have the question on how wide should the contact flats be? Kerry already mentioned no flats will leave track marks. But too wide flat will make a panel consisting of bands of flat stock. So I think too much is as bad as too little. Really no surprise as that's usually how things are.

[tdoty]

As Kerry said, too much pressure is often the culprit. Too high of a crown on the anvil will do it too. You can wheel with a higher radius anvil than needed and still make the shape you want, at the cost of increased track marks.

You might be able to remove most of the track marks by choosing the anvil that is the best possible fit to the inside radius of your panels and wheeling with very light pressure (for a very long time ) with a tight tracking pattern to lightly wash over the entire panel. This has to be done carefully though, as it is entirely possible to stretch the metal during this process. Another thing to consider is that since it is a compound curve, there are two radii to consider, and stretching one of those and not the other will give you a panel that isn't what you wanted and will take quite a bit of time to repair.

The best way to get rid of tracking marks is to avoid them in the first place. Proper anvil selection combined with less pressure than you think you'll need usually helps. After you really get a feel for wheeling, you'll get a feel for the required pressure. I still find myself using a bit too much pressure now and then........at which point I just get it the best I can and hope it all comes out with some 80 grit, or I scrap it and start over.

Tim D.

[jhnarial]

I'm no expert and all of the information you need is in the above replies.

When wheeling a panel, I have few things close by.

Da with 220 grit.

Sander with Grey scotch-brite

De-wax De-greaser

I hardly ever use my wheel to put shape in a panel unless it is a low crown panel, like the one you are doing. I hate low crown panels.

After I get the shape I want, I sand the panel with the 220 grit. This will show me my low and high spots. Then I wheel it with light pressure.

Then Sand it with the Grey scotch-brite with De-wax De-greaser. Then wipe it down with De-wax De-greaser.

Then I do a wash out with very little pressure, the wheels are slipping when I stop. The De-wax De-greaser leaves a film on the panel and I just wheel it until the metal has an even shine to it.

It's hard to explain it but that is what I do.

[HEATNBEAT]

Ron Covell's video" makeing a 36 ford rear fender" to get the tracking lines out he puts in a avil that matchs the contour and runs the part in 90 degrees to the line

[MAX]

I too dislike low crowns. One thing I am constantly battling is the wheel that I have to use at work. It's from a well known U.S. company, yet made in China, poorly made, lots of deflection in the frame, and the lower anvils have no flats, plus there not consistant. The MetalAce lower anvils I use on my wheel at home have these flat areas, and I think it helps with making a low crown panel.

John, does that De wax product you use have solvent in it? My painter, freaks out on me if I use ANY product on sheetmetal. He's terrified of chemical disaster and ruining his work.

Originally Posted by jhnarial

I'm no expert and all of the information you need is in the above replies.

When wheeling a panel, I have few things close by.

Da with 220 grit.

Sander with Grey scotch-brite

De-wax De-greaser

I hardly ever use my wheel to put shape in a panel unless it is a low crown panel, like the one you are doing. I hate low crown panels.

After I get the shape I want, I sand the panel with the 220 grit. This will show me my low and high spots. Then I wheel it with light pressure.

Then Sand it with the Grey scotch-brite with De-wax De-greaser. Then wipe it down with De-wax De-greaser.

Then I do a wash out with very little pressure, the wheels are slipping when I stop. The De-wax De-greaser leaves a film on the panel and I just wheel it until the metal has an even shine to it.

It's hard to explain it but that is what I do.

[mr.c]

TOT: Quite a few years ago at FormFest 2 at George Kings shop in Huntsville,Bob Baisden and I were working on a deep drawn motorcycle fender using 18G cold rolled. We were under the guidance of Wray. We were having an issue with the stripes. We got Wray to show us and when he left there were still stripes.We didn't mention that to him,but did have a chuckle. Students! Bob and I worked on that fender four days. We tried different anvils from other machines to no avail. Not wanting to be whipped by this, I came in really early the next morning so that I wouldn't tie up the machine and started trying different things. What I discovered was to set the pressure on the wheel low enough that if I pushed the piece fast the wheels would slip. I wheeled the entire fender with this low/no pressure and the tracks were gone. In retrospect, John Glover would call this technique a washover pass. It works.

[jhnarial]

Max

I just read the back of the can and it is made up from two solvents,Heavy Aliphatic solvent and V.M.& P Naphtha.

This is just what I do Max, I do not know if it is correct or the best way to do it. I would hate to be responsible for ruining a custom paint job.

When using a power hammer we use a mixture of tranny fluid and kerosene to lubricate it. So De-wax de-greaser is pretty light compared to that.

[David Gardiner]

Originally Posted by mr.c

TOT: Quite a few years ago at FormFest 2 at George Kings shop in Huntsville,Bob Baisden and I were working on a deep drawn motorcycle fender using 18G cold rolled. We were under the guidance of Wray. We were having an issue with the stripes. We got Wray to show us and when he left there were still stripes.We didn't mention that to him,but did have a chuckle. Students! Bob and I worked on that fender four days. We tried different anvils from other machines to no avail. Not wanting to be whipped by this, I came in really early the next morning so that I wouldn't tie up the machine and started trying different things. What I discovered was to set the pressure on the wheel low enough that if I pushed the piece fast the wheels would slip. I wheeled the entire fender with this low/no pressure and the tracks were gone. In retrospect, John Glover would call this technique a washover pass. It works.

This is the correct process in my opinion. hope this helps