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Old 09-16-2016, 06:54 PM
MattQ MattQ is offline
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Default Forming flanges

So I'm involved in a WWI aircraft restoration and need to know if I'm on the right track with some sheet metal forming. I'm very new at metalwork. I need to make an aluminuml edging around a rubber foot step. The edging is ½” covering the edge of the rubber with a 1/8” flange to cover the thickness of the rubber mat. Two of the four sides are straight and should be doable. The other two sides curve, one curves in the plane of the flange, the other in the plane of the larger flat section. I'm thinking anneal, put it in a form and whack it. fficeffice" />>>
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For one form there would be a concave cut out, the aluminum strip would be cut in a curve that matches and placed with a 1/8” overhang which would be hammered down to make the flange.>>
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For the other form, the form would be a convex curve. A straight aluminum strip would be placed so it follows the curve and has a 1/8” overhang and whacking occurs, forming the flange.>>
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Is this how I should do it? Is there a better way? We are not looking to spend a lot for tools that would essentially be used on these four parts, we're hoping just a hammer and a wooden form will suffice.>>
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TIA, Matt>>
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Old 09-16-2016, 08:40 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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[QUOTE=MattQ;129246]So I'm involved in a WWI aircraft restoration and need to know if I'm on the right track with some sheet metal forming. I'm very new at metalwork. I need to make an aluminuml edging around a rubber foot step. The edging is ½” covering the edge of the rubber with a 1/8” flange to cover the thickness of the rubber mat. Two of the four sides are straight and should be doable. The other two sides curve, one curves in the plane of the flange, the other in the plane of the larger flat section. I'm thinking anneal, put it in a form and whack it.
[QUOTE=MattQ;129246]

Hi Matt,
For that vintage the 1100 alloy would be correct.
Without photos or dwg I would say that your concave pieces would need a stretch to shape, and the convex would need a shrink process (gathering).

Yes, you should be able to use a good set of wood blocks for each part. Remember that the clamp blocks cover all of the surface and run right to the start of the bend radius on top of each part, while the forming block (anvil) covers all and goes out to the inside of the bend radius on the bottom of each part ....

If the blocks slip just spray with some contact and the metal will stay put.
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Last edited by crystallographic; 09-16-2016 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:44 PM
MattQ MattQ is offline
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Thank you Kent. I think I know what you mean by having the clamping block at the start of the radius, but it is a small radius. Attached is a pic with the parts that have curves marked A & B (the other two sides are essentially straight in both directions), and also attached is a drawing of what I was writing about as to the forms. I didn't see how to upload pics in my original post.

Matt

Step.jpg

Method.jpg
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Old 09-17-2016, 01:19 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Originally Posted by MattQ View Post
Thank you Kent. I think I know what you mean by having the clamping block at the start of the radius, but it is a small radius. Attached is a pic with the parts that have curves marked A & B (the other two sides are essentially straight in both directions), and also attached is a drawing of what I was writing about as to the forms. I didn't see how to upload pics in my original post.

Matt

Attachment 38855

Attachment 38856
"A" is correct, so you just cut a curved blank, clamp and whack.
Now for the Nickel Knowledge.
"B" is a non-starter this way because easier is done with one hardwood block and the band saw. Cut this block 8in long, as thick as the top flange is wide, and as tall as 3 inches. Across the width you cut a semicircle 2inch valley. Lay block on table and metal on top with wide flange across it. Small flange is up and tap it down into the valley - with the metal supported by the "air dolly." Move the flange along its length while tapping and the edge will curve - if you use a hammer with the face curved as gently as the curve you are looking to make - no flatter and only a little more is the limit.
Old standard aviation method found both in the 1930's books as well as within the oldtimers themselves.
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Old 09-17-2016, 03:49 AM
Richard Lennard Richard Lennard is offline
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"If the blocks slip just spray with some contact and the metal will stay put."
So bloody obvious, just never crossed my mind!
Thank you.
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Old 09-17-2016, 05:58 AM
MattQ MattQ is offline
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Kent,

I think the attached is what you meant . You form the flange first and then curve it?

Dip.jpg
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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 09-17-2016 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 09-17-2016, 10:44 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Kent,

I think the attached is what you meant . You form the flange first and then curve it?
Yes.
For taller flanges you make another wood block to use as a driver. The driver is curved in one direction to match your finished curve, or a little more. And a slot is cut just wide enough and deep enough to support the flange, as the driver is struck down into the lower block.
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Old 09-17-2016, 06:02 PM
MattQ MattQ is offline
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Kent,

Thanks again for your help. It will be a few weeks until I can try this, but I'm looking forward to it!
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Old 09-17-2016, 11:29 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Kent,

Thanks again for your help. It will be a few weeks until I can try this, but I'm looking forward to it!
Let me know how you do ...
BTW - interesting wing root - aluminum skin w/welded steel anchor... WW!, hm? Nice work. Fokker?
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:55 AM
sblack sblack is offline
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Ok that's very cool! Thanks again Kent. I seem to say that a lot.
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