#1
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Outer wheel well patch fab advice needed
I'm helping my neighbor on his 64 Plymouth Fury. Trying to make a patch for the outer wheelwell. Started by making a plywood hammerform. ( I think thats what its called) Two pieces of plywood with the shape of the arch cut out. Cut out a strip of metal and clamped it between the two pieces of wood and then hammered down a 3/4" lip. Next I got out my beater bag and plastic mallet and started hammering away. I'm wondering if I should cut off the lip and form the compound curve first and then weld on the lip. Any advice.
Thanks,Rob mt washington motors 005.jpg mt washington motors 007.jpg mt washington motors 008.jpg mt washington motors 006.jpg |
#2
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Rob, I don't know what the shape of the panel is suppose to look like. I made a panel for the same area for my son's IH Scout. Attached are some pictures of the panel.
There are a lot of ways to make this type of panel. I started by setting up the contour gage to the shape of the fender opening. It can be seen in the first picture. Next I drew the shape of the opening on the flat sheet of metal. Drew another line the length of the flange that turns under and cut the metal on that line. Using a tipping wheel I tipped on the first line while lifting the panel. This give a place for the metal to bend and form the flange. I then used a hammer and dolly to get the flange started. Then I used my shrinker and stretcher to finish the flange and get the panel straight. You accomplished the same thing with the hammer form. Either way will work well and it is the first step that needs to be done. Next I took the easy way out since I have a Nibbler, Pullmax type machine, made a die to match the shape that I needed on the edge of the panel. Ran the panel through the dies and formed the shape. This same thing can be done with hammers and dollies it just takes longer. You have to go slow moving the metal a little at a time to get the shape you want. If the panel starts to curve you can use a shrinker or stretcher to get the panel straight. It looks like the piece of metal you cut was too small for the area you need to repair. Can you post a picture of what the shape of the panel is suppose to look like? That might help us give you a way to get the shape you want.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#3
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The piece I'm making is actually for the outer wheelhouse. We have a premade patchpanel for the outside quarter . I was wondering if it would be easier trying to form that piece for a tight fit without the lip on it. This is my first attempt to make something like this . Also my first time using the beater bag. This piece is one of three I need to make for the passenger side. The front and rear lower pieces have much more shape to them.
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#4
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Rob, You can make the patch panel by putting in the shape first and then bending the flange last. I would make the panel with the flange all in one piece. It appears that you have a set of shrinkers and stretchers from the marks on the panel. You can use them to fine tune the shape of the panel.
If you are concerned with the roughness on the panel you can smooth it out with a hammer and dolly. For your first attempt at making a panel like this it looks good.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#5
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I think I need to make myself a stump for tuck shrinking. The top edge of the patch needs to roll in more to meet the wheelwell. I don't think my shrinker is giving me the results I'm looking for. Tonight I'm going to try to smooth out my walnuts and try to figure away to tuck shrink without a stump.
Rob |
#6
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Rob, look at this by my son Kris:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkaCJ...eature=related and this by John Kelly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obySlwD2h5A You don't need a stump to shrink. I still tuck shrink when I want a shrink in a certain place. Imo, it's more controllable but slower than shrinking on a stump. At least it is for me.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#7
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Thanks Kerry, that definately helps.
Rob |
#8
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Made a crude but effective tuck fork tonight. Used two punches and welded together. All I could find for a handle was a piece of square stock.
tuck fork.jpg |
#9
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That will work fine. Try and round off and smooth the ends or it will gouge the metal. You want it to slide on the metal.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#10
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shaping
rob, great start, go to, shaping a bowl by jhnaril, inbedded in that tutioral is an excellent demo of flexible shape patterns. Now use your new pattern to make a t post dolly out of crs which should give you a much better shape than a generic dolly. If you don't have to make it at least twice you aren't learning. I want to see the finished project!
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