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  #11  
Old 01-05-2019, 04:59 PM
AllyBill AllyBill is offline
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As most of it appears to still be there and fit for purpose it's always an option to blast it with ally oxide, kill any rust with phosphoric acid then give it a first class surface coating and bond in the seal. No one is going to see it, are they? It would save an awful lot of awkward work.

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  #12  
Old 01-05-2019, 07:43 PM
BTromblay BTromblay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berntd View Post
How about I make an L shape.

Then weld that to the remaining vertical.say ~5mm down with the long leg forming the channel bottom.

Clean up the weld and turn up the outer channel edge.

What do you think?
Hi,

This sounds the easiest to me. With the "L" shapes you can stretch and shrink the flanges to match the original profile, then weld.

But, I got to ask, what do you mean by "layers are cactus" ? What does "cactus" mean?

I alway enjoy learning slang words from my Australian and New Zealand friends.

Cheers,

Bill
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  #13  
Old 01-05-2019, 08:49 PM
berntd berntd is offline
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Cactus = kaputt = stuffed

Not necessarily an Aussie thing but it works for me.

One could also express it more elegantly as in
"slightly rusted" or "f@$#ed"

:-)
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  #14  
Old 01-06-2019, 03:24 AM
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neilb neilb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berntd View Post
How about I make an L shape.

Then weld that to the remaining vertical.say ~5mm down with the long leg forming the channel bottom.

Clean up the weld and turn up the outer channel edge.

What do you think?

Attachment 50850
sounds like a good idea...........


i will add, i have seen these rubber seals removed with a flat blade screw driver, prior to be being painted due to body damage. obviously the painters just want a nice object free place to mask off. later on in its life who knows what's under the glue and seal
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  #15  
Old 01-06-2019, 03:32 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berntd View Post
How about I make an L shape.

Then weld that to the remaining vertical.say ~5mm down with the long leg forming the channel bottom.

Clean up the weld and turn up the outer channel edge.

What do you think?

Attachment 50850

Hi Bernt,
Familiar part.
Variations also, on many front glass sections - Alfa, Bug, Hisp, Isotta, Mercer, Graber ... and on...
I like your method as it suits your thinking, and experience.
So, I recommend for this shape, making a steel plate to fixture the build-up as you go. This fixture fills the channel and allows clamping to itself.
And also is the tool for your last turn, fig 4.
Good luck!
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  #16  
Old 01-06-2019, 03:33 PM
berntd berntd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilb View Post
sounds like a good idea...........


i will add, i have seen these rubber seals removed with a flat blade screw driver, prior to be being painted due to body damage. obviously the painters just want a nice object free place to mask off. later on in its life who knows what's under the glue and seal
Also most contact glue damages paint.
However, this is a challenging design as the gap there faces straight up to the elements with no draining whatsoever. Any water going into the gap and onto that seal, will just sit there. The lid's lip that interfaces to the seal top is also rusted out. This design needed a draining groove like on a boot lid.
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  #17  
Old 01-06-2019, 04:22 PM
berntd berntd is offline
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[QUOTE=crystallographic;152271
...I like your method as it suits your thinking, and experience.
So, I recommend for this shape, making a steel plate to fixture the build-up as you go. This fixture fills the channel and allows clamping to itself.
And also is the tool for your last turn, fig 4.
Good luck!
[/QUOTE]

Thanks Kent for the kind words.
I like the tool plate idea and I will make it to fit the existing channel before removing anything.

One more question:
Should I try to prevent height distortion of the upper panel edge (above the weld) by spotting an L shape metal strip all across the top to hold it rigid at the right height?

I am not sure how feasable that is or how rigid it would be but I have seen that done somewhere in the past for something.
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  #18  
Old 01-06-2019, 05:24 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berntd View Post
Thanks Kent for the kind words.
I like the tool plate idea and I will make it to fit the existing channel before removing anything.

One more question:
Should I try to prevent height distortion of the upper panel edge (above the weld) by spotting an L shape metal strip all across the top to hold it rigid at the right height?

I am not sure how feasable that is or how rigid it would be but I have seen that done somewhere in the past for something.

Yes, any added restraint helps noticeably.
!!
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  #19  
Old 01-06-2019, 09:58 PM
berntd berntd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
Yes, any added restraint helps noticeably.
!!
I have never done this so any further input will be a great help.

Should I just use a vertically placed sheet metal strip along the top and attach it with MIG spots every 3(??)".
Or do I need something more substantial like an L shape or thicker metal of sorts?

Should I place the restraint right at the vertical edge or away from the edge?
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  #20  
Old 01-07-2019, 04:16 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berntd View Post
I have never done this so any further input will be a great help.

Should I just use a vertically placed sheet metal strip along the top and attach it with MIG spots every 3(??)".
Or do I need something more substantial like an L shape or thicker metal of sorts?

Should I place the restraint right at the vertical edge or away from the edge?

Work the longest uncurved sections first, tacking and tapping your way along. You will see how this part behaves as you go.
Remember that welds always pull/contract/shrink, so you expect some.
Hammering after will help relax the weld-pull, and this plate can be the dolly for some hammering.
Make some 4in long supports, either L or Z, and tack-mig them every inch or so.
Expect some hot hammering to get your last turn down, with light tapping enough to set the metal and not overdo it.
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