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Ray do you have any pictures of the mold? I need to make one almost identical to the one you made. Is it plexi or polycarbonate ? Was it expensive to have them heat and drape it?
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Mark |
#342
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Quote:
the mold is in storage with the plexi on it to hold it's form for the duration of the build so no pic. I built the mold in 20 gauge steel with a skeleton structure underneath. You want to make it at least 2" or more oversize because of the areas that will have clamps on it it will be a little deformed but then will trim off I made the crown face in 6 pieces and tack welded and mudded it out. Sanded down to 120 grit. No paint/primer just feathered out mud and shiny metal. It wasn't." ready for paint " but the drape material conceals minor flaws. I have a 1/2 deep x 1/2 landing flange window channel so i have wiggle room for shimming and weather strip. I will make some kind of trim. They did it for $250 and i did the trim out with my bandsaw and my wife holding the dumb end. I'm happy for a first timer. They said most molds they see are wood. Hope this helps
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Ray |
#343
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I went to the Simeone museum last month. You car was there
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Sean Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 10-10-2018 at 09:49 PM. |
#344
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Thanks ray. The one I have to build is like the one in the last post. How many places did you have to contact before you found someone to work with you? I have no idea of where to search to find someone to do it for me. I want to use polycarbonate and have read that the sheet has to be dried before it can be formed.
Thanks again
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Mark |
#345
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I was lucky.....this place is 10 min away........ and through email coached me on the mold. first place i contacted. Ray
http://www.multicraftplastics.com/
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Ray |
#346
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I recently had a rear window made for my Ferrari GTO and my initial thought was to use polycarbonate. After learning the tradeoffs between plexiglass and polycarbonate, I ended up going with plexiglass. The key issues that tipped the scales for me are that plexiglass won't scratch as easy (and scratches can be polished out easier when you do get them) and plexiglass is supposed to stay clear at least 2 to 3 times longer than polycarbonate. In addition, it's less expensive as well. The only real reason I saw for using polycarbonate is if you really need the strength/non-shatter property. For example, if the car will be used in racing where hard impact is expected on a regular basis. I did go with polycarbonate for the GTO headlight covers but that's because the screw holes that go through them are prone to cracking. I'd look for a local plastics company first, but if you can't find one, I've been told this company does real good work for reasonable prices: http://www.aircraftwindshield.com/ I haven't used them but my paint guy says he's used them for all the exotic/race car windshield work that he's done over several decades. I hope this info helps you.
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
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After weeks on and off of engineering where the hinges need to be to make the door open and close without scraping paint i'm moving forward.
Made some quick panel bottoms for both sides just so i can say i did something. Today was a WHY???????????day Ray
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Ray |
#348
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It's really fantastic how you're doing this with no hard bucks.
You must have great vision of the shape you are about to create. It's something I really have a problem with. Thanks for the updates. |
#349
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[QUOTE=123pugsy;150318]It's really fantastic how you're doing this with no hard bucks.
You must have great vision of the shape you are about to create. It's something I really have a problem with. I have to compensate for my poor woodworking skills, Ray
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Ray |
#350
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[QUOTE=Scrap maker;150350]
Quote:
Ha............well, you compensate just fine. |
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