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Drip Rails?
A while back I had attempted to fabricate a drip rail based on a sample that I was sent.
My first step was to form an offset in the bead roller Followed by a bead roll into the skateboard wheel to form the radius on the face, and a tipping wheel to form the remaining folds. My results lacked accuracy, it does appear I need more offset on the initial roll, and I wanted to see if anyone had other suggestion that might improve the accuracy/duplicability. I need to make these about 24" long... Any thoughts/suggestions?
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#2
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Do you have a pullmax?
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#3
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#4
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You can make this shape with a press brake, bead roller or a Pullmax-type machine.
For either the Pullmax or bead roller I would make the die set to work the blank flat, but making creases for the folds, which come in the second operation. Then I would clamp it to a hardwood or aluminum or steel flat section, of the thickness needed for the bucket and work it over that. Or, You can form the blank as above, then brake the two bends on the left, and then form the rest of bucket over the board/slab/plate, watching springbback of course. Fun job. I like these bits of trim stuff.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#5
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I see you have a magnetic brake. They cant bent sharp corners in narrow strips.
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Richard K |
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I misread your original post. At 24" I think you could do these in a standard leaf brake with a narrow apron. Something like a Di-Acro. You would have to work out the exact order of the bends and then possibly do a little tune up with some dies in your Lennox. I've seen the things you can do. This should be a little hill for a mountain climber like you.
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#7
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I would get it close to the shape with what ever process that you choose, like your sample, then make a set of dies for the Pullman to sharpen the creases and define the shape. I would not be concerned with the shape of the outer flange at that point since it is wrapper around more than 90 degrees. Probably could finish that by hand, or a second set of dies made for a second operation.
Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
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