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  #871  
Old 03-02-2019, 06:09 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Need to lengthen the bonnet due to the guard stretch and the wider V of the grille centre. I cut some from the old rear wall left over from the 58 cab.


I cut it with some arc and then ran dividers between the cowl and the piece and cut along that line to get the right edge shape.


The factory edge was folded back over on itself. This is as far as I can tip it on the bead roller. I have also shrunk the edge a little knowing that it will need that once it is flattened due to the direction of the slight arc of the edge.


To take the fold further, I hammered it over my modified wood splitter head. It was then given a fresh coat of galvanised paint under the fold.


Just hammered over the bench first with the mallet and then the body hammer. Also a few passes through the english wheel to get it dead even quickly.


Next the cast FJ Land Cruiser hinges were bolted back on and the piece was clamped on with the right gap and centred. Holes and hinge positions scribed.


This is the same wedge I made for the cowl to make the hinge bases level on the rounded cowl. The same needs to be done for the bonnet to stop binding.


The wedge was bolted down to the table along with the extension piece.


Just quickly chased around the wedge with rounded cold chisels.


Bolted in and the hinges stay level even though the bonnet curves.


Made some nut plates for underneath, the same as I did under the cowl. These will do for now as not sure if I will run them as normally bolted through the bonnet support.


Need to match the centre rib of the bonnet.


I started the rib by hammering into the rubber with the nylon bolster to get the softer shape. Then finished stretching the rib with a steel bolster.


Double checked with cross measuring that the grille was perfectly centred and then adjusted the bonnet until the centre rib lined up with the middle of the grille and the cowl. Also that it had the correct overhang on the grille and then scribed where to cut.


To start tacking on an edge I like to clamp some spot welding pliers to it so the copper pad helps stop the edge from burning away. I then tack with the mig quickly from one end to the other lifting or dropping the piece to line up the edge perfectly. The reason to go quickly is that while the tack is red hot, it expands the gap. As it cools it pulls it in too far and you have to hammer the tack each time to get it right again. But if you put the next tack it just as the last one starts to shrink, you can tack and move on. If the gap starts to open too far, I just wait for it to cool to pull itself closed again. A few close together tacks, allowing cooling inbetween, will pull it closed more if needed.


This is the back of the tig weld and only stopped once to reposition myself and get more filler wire. It has pulled more than normal as I only had 1.2mm/0.45 mig wire left ready to go as a filler, and that takes more heat to melt than using 0.9mm/0.35 or even 0.6/0.23 that I usually use on 0.9mm/20 gauge thick sheet.


Some planishing to stretch only the weld and it is looking much better.


I have got most of the shape right as there was already some damage to this bonnet from being walked on some time in its prior life. Once more bonnet pieces are added, giving it some frame, I can do more.


Now the next piece needs to be added making sure that the joggle lines up with the edge of the grille centre. Also the the front edge is inline with the centerpiece. I will cut it slightly larger and then trim to fit.


I have to leave enough room in the joggle area for the rubber strip that goes along the top of the grille. Another 2mm off and it will be good to go.


Starting to look like a bonnet again! The end near the cowl still needs more shape change as normally this part of the bonnet was closer to the rounded side.


Kuma has come to check the backside of my weld!
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  #872  
Old 03-02-2019, 11:49 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Need to lengthen the bonnet due to the guard stretch and the wider V of the grille centre. I cut some from the old rear wall left over from the 58 cab.

Kuma has come to check the backside of my weld!

Wow, such a nice job!
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  #873  
Old 03-02-2019, 12:49 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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No kidding- that's really something. Wow!
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  #874  
Old 03-02-2019, 09:04 PM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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one of my favorite threads.
You do great well thought out work
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  #875  
Old 03-09-2019, 06:26 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Thank you for the comments.

Not much to show this week as low crown panels are much more work!

I got the other side piece welded on. I also placed the radiator in place to see how it all would fit.


The filler neck unfortunately just comes under the dropped part of the bonnet. The power steering reservoir is under the taller middle section however.


Hangs down 40mm/1.5" below the grille so would like to raise it to level.


I can see two ways to get the filler into the taller section. Cut it halfway between the tank and the filler and then clamp in between a 90* silicone hose to get it over near the fan. The other way would be to run a plumbers threading tap inside the tank side and screw in a plug to seal it up. Then get an inline filler for the top radiator hose.


If the power steering reservoir is too high it just slides off and could be fitted lower or somewhere else. It also supplies the hydraulically driven engine fan which I hope to keep so it all matches the original cooling system for this drivetrain.


Bonnet had a bad dip in it but slowly getting it into shape. Should be a bit easier once the side piece is welded on giving it support.


Dip is gone but still have a lot of finessing to go if you look at the reflection. Slowly but surely it will get there in the end.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 03-09-2019 at 06:29 AM.
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  #876  
Old 03-09-2019, 07:47 PM
keith keith is offline
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Marcus, Your jeep is coming along nicely. Very clean work.
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  #877  
Old 03-10-2019, 03:15 AM
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enjoying the progress marcus! nice to see you back at it, instead of travelling the world... lol
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  #878  
Old 03-10-2019, 04:10 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Many thanks guys. I'm discovering why Peter told me to just make it from scratch as very time consuming this way. But I am learning a lot.
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  #879  
Old 03-16-2019, 05:26 AM
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Doesn't look like it but I have been getting more hours in every weeks since getting back to it this year. Instead of reading the paper every night, I just buy it once a week for the TV guide and then spend the extra 1/2hr in the workshop instead. That adds up over 6 days to 3 hours or another day for me! It is just the same news but different names anyway.


I'm am always trying new ways to improve technique. I found especially on low crown panels that I would over stretch after welding getting the waves in the metal. So for the other side I got the main distortion out by using a nylon mallet and hitting into a lead filled rubber dolly.


I only did final stretching, metal hammer on metal dolly, after the grinding to get the weld area perfectly flat. Came out a lot better and was much faster.


Next it was time to finish off the back part of the bonnet after the guards were extended at the grille.


Brochures left from dads house came in handy as a card template. Hard to believe but the left side of the template is actually perfectly straight and the right side at the cowl has had a curve cut into it.


Unfolded you can see how the left side from the picture before, bottom in this picture, is now straight. Last bit of metal from the rear wall was used to make the filler piece.


I folded over a flange on the cowl side of the piece and wheeled flat before putting the curve into it. Used nothing more than my knee to bend it over.


Checked with a straightedge to make sure it was flat and hammered over the bench from the inside out with the hammer I modified for this sort of work.


I want to extend the joggle in the bonnet all the way to the end where it fades out. Just marked both sides of it first.


Then clamped it at both ends the piece over some metal the same thickness as the deepest part of the joggle. Concentrated the bolster mainly at that end so it would fade to the other.


One tapered and fading joggle!


I made the piece wider than the bonnet was short so it would cover the weld line I had from when I welded in the Landcruiser louvres. I'd rather not have two weld lines so close together when possible as makes it quicker to finish off.


Another piece of the puzzle done and only the other back corner left to do on the skin. Lots more refining of course and you can see the first side is already looking better. If the low spots were loose, ie. you could lift them with a finger, I use the 5" shrinking disc from underneath to lift them. Tight ones I would use off dolly and lift a low spot next to them at the same time. Sometimes hammering them down into the rubber dolly worked well. A flipper and a dolly pushing up under low spots was needed in some situations. Whatever worked!
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  #880  
Old 03-17-2019, 08:42 AM
dwmh dwmh is offline
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Great job Marcus, and what a tidy workshop. Very impressive.
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