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  #301  
Old 09-08-2020, 12:13 AM
Antoine_P Antoine_P is offline
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Thanks for sharing your process, thoughts and results, it really is interesting and helpful!

Antoine
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Antoine Puygranier
Resurrecting a 60 ghia:
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18852

Fixing a 914:
https://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=20624
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  #302  
Old 09-26-2020, 04:00 PM
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heinke heinke is offline
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Location: Prescott, AZ
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Post Rear opening hammer form

I finished up the hammer form for the Miura rear opening.



More information about it here: http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showp...7&postcount=50
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  #303  
Old 10-02-2020, 07:22 PM
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heinke heinke is offline
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Post Time for some paint

I was starting to work on the interior door frame parts that will mate up with the door jambs and it became obvious that I should finish up the structural parts of the door frames first. In addition, the door jambs are to a point that it will be very inconvenient/hard to remove the door post/cowl/windshield frame unit when the door jambs are built out further. So I decided now was time to do all the final welding, sandblasting and paint work on these pieces. I put down all the final welds on the altered donor C4 Corvette door frames and pulled all the to be painted items from the chassis.

The only place I have for sandblasting and paint is out doors. Fortunately the weather is still warm and it’s very dry in California this time of year. Here are all the pieces after sand blasting and primer.



For painted chassis parts, I like to use a subdued color that doesn’t show dirt and dust that much. I chose gloss smoke grey for these parts. This color should compliment most any Miura appropriate body color and certainly won’t upstage it.





Getting paint into all those nooks and crannies without having a bunch of runs is quite a chore. Most of these surfaces are going to be covered up anyway so the couple of runs won’t matter in the end. What matters most is getting all the bare metal well covered and especially where aluminum will be in direct contact so galvanic corrosion can be avoided.

One more sticky, smelly, and otherwise close contact with nasty liquids now accomplished!
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  #304  
Old 10-03-2020, 06:15 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Good to think ahead for things like this as too often see it forgotten until too late.
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  #305  
Old 10-03-2020, 01:13 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Hi Joel

Steady progress and always thinking many steps ahead equals, great results.
Thanks for sharing with us.
Steve
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Hamilton Classics
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  #306  
Old 10-09-2020, 03:19 PM
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heinke heinke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Good to think ahead for things like this as too often see it forgotten until too late.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Hamilton View Post
Hi Joel

Steady progress and always thinking many steps ahead equals, great results.
Thanks for sharing with us.
Steve
Thanks for commenting. Slow and steady does describe project progress well.
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  #307  
Old 10-09-2020, 04:12 PM
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heinke heinke is offline
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Post Corner braces for front clip framework

In parallel with painting the windshield and door frames, I made some corner braces for added triangulation in the front clip framework. I decided to make the braces to be glued in place versus welding them in. I chose glue in to avoid more welding HAZ areas.

The braces are made from Al 5052 .063 thickness. Here are two of them, one in completed state and the other prior to having “lightening” holes punched in it.



The flanges for gluing are 10 inches long by 1 ½” wide for one and by 1” wide for the other. This should give plenty of surface area for the glue to hold. A divot was needed on one flange to go over a weld bead. I used a bead roller to make the divot prior to turning the flange. I bought a 1 ½” punch and flare tool from Mittler Bros. to make the lightening holes in these braces.

Now gluing these in place may sound easy but it wasn’t. I needed to glue them with the framework held level and without any twist in it. This meant doing it “latched in place” which means tight spaces and limited backside access. It also takes a lot of clamps and creative ways to place them. There are 6 more clamps not showing in the picture on the backside of the upper two braces.



Here are the braces after glued in place.





You might notice the different orientation of the rearward braces from the front most. The rear braces are flipped to get sufficient clearance over the front bulkhead.

The braces have added quite a bit of torsional rigidity to the framework. It now has very little sag when being lifted from one of the rear corners.
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  #308  
Old 10-20-2020, 08:31 PM
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heinke heinke is offline
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Post Inner door frames

Probably the best description for this post is that I’m now “skinning” the door frames. In other words, adding on the sub-structure that holds the weather/wind seals and that provides the mounting surface for the actual door skins. On factory built cars, these parts of the door are stamped out on massive presses in one or two large pieces. On my home built car (where I don’t have a huge press), I’m forced to really think through how to build them in smaller pieces, make test pieces to prove I can, and do lots of annealing in order successfully work the metal.

The first piece I’ve built and the focus of this post is at the inner front of the door between the hinges and door frame. The picture below shows the test piece made to prove I could make the curved channel for the weather seal and form the metal for adequate clearance to the door jamb. It also shows the sheet cut out to make the actual piece.



I used a series of hammer forms to make the curved channel and then bead roller to raise the areas to clear the extensions that re-positioned door hinges outward.





The bead roller with tipping roll and a second hammer form were used to make the curved bend that goes forward to where the outer door skin mounts.



During this forming operation as ruffles emerged, I used the shrinking dies on my power hammer to shrink and smooth the metal.



Here’s the completed piece during a test fit.





Needless to say, building this piece seriously tested my metal shaping skills. Oh yeah, I did make one piece of scrap while making this piece. Luckily, I messed up on the second bend so I didn’t get too far into the piece before starting over.
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  #309  
Old 10-20-2020, 08:55 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Looks great Joel, that is a challenging panel and you killed it!

Steve
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  #310  
Old 10-21-2020, 04:05 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Looks very factory pressed, which means a job well done.
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