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#11
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Quote:
It is easy to see that the control arm are triangulated in two planes. Stacking the outer ends where they meet and adding that short vertical member probably adds strength/flex resistance disproportionate to the simplicity of design. Seems like a very low cost and simple way to strengthen that piece. Even now, nearly 40 yrs later, aftermarket tubular upper A frames typical on street rods are typically have both of the same ends in plane. Next..
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AC Button II http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel |
#12
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Awesome news Will!
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#13
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Any body figured out anything about that right front upper control arm yet?[/QUOTE]
It's not real clear in the photo but it looks like the rear a-arm link is positioned about 2" higher than one in front. That would change the caster at that corner of the car slightly under hard braking. I believe this would make the car less likely to push at corner entry.
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Bob Don't believe everything you think. |
#14
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Good morning guys. Steve actually figured out what I was looking for. With that vertical tube running up the center, it would appear that you could not remove the upper control arm without damaging it. My original design was for the use of the 4-bolt ball joint, and you would only have to unbolt two bolts, swing one side down and the arm would come out.
There was about 30 years from the time I built this car until it was found in the mountains, and this latest gentleman had modified it for street use, so there is no telling what his idea was for caster/camber settings. One of my later posts showed the 'split' plates that I made for building the arms to be used in the restoration. Not shown in any of the previous pictures is this front cross bar that is installed between the top of those stout vertical tubes inside the upper control arms. This seemed to have the most effect in minimizing left to right frame flex and was most notable if we tried to run without it at places like Daytona, Talladega and Dover. I became a HUGE believer in making the front third of a chassis less flexible.
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Will Last edited by RockHillWill; 03-29-2020 at 09:55 AM. |
#15
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This is terrific Will.
Looking forward to following along. |
#16
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Found this picture showing the line up prior to the 1982 Daytona 500. Note the Bill Elliott car is behind us.
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Will |
#17
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Slow progress due to virus 'issues'
I got these pictures from Bill yesterday. North Carolina has issued a shutdown of non-essential businesses, but you are allowed to work on your own 'projects'.
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Will |
#18
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Will, is it my imagination, or does the hood 'droop' a bit? I know you told me you did some tricky stuff from time to time......
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#19
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Kerry, all these cars have to fit what is called a 'dinosaur' template that goes from the nose to the rear spoiler. We used to be able to have clearance of 1/2" gap at any point along the template, but it is now .156". I would have tried to get that 1/2" at the nose and as much as possible at the front of the roof, while trying my best to have NO clearance at the rear of the deck lid. If you can see that 1/2" I would be impressed. Clearly, there has not been template on this particular car for several years, but Bill and I spent some time matching the left and right sides of the hood prior to reworking the front fenders. The front nose section had to be 'adjusted' from left to right, but it looks to me like Bill did a good job with that.
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Will |
#20
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Was the template 'level' or just have to fit the contour of hood, roof, decklid?
I'm not even sure I know what kind of car this is? Looks a bit like a MOPAR....
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Kerry Pinkerton |
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