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  #21  
Old 08-30-2018, 08:09 AM
Stretch Stretch is offline
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Peter - thanks for the pix. Looks amazing! Though I never doubted they would. 👍 Cheers, Matt
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  #22  
Old 08-30-2018, 10:17 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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Clint, I have been advised that the planishing hammer components are being air freighted in several shipments to Rock Hill as we speak. I will advice when they all show up and we are ready to begins up fitting those components.
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  #23  
Old 08-30-2018, 08:59 PM
BTromblay BTromblay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Tommasini View Post
Will
The handbuilt machine and attachment is far far from a Yoder or a Baileigh power hammers, these machines are very powerful, I would not dare compare my machine to those two ..... but... given the right air motor it could be the next best thing .....................at a fraction of the cost of those machines.............
And the secret is....... dies design
I just wish I could be at Oblong and demonstrate the unit, but I am sure you and Jim and Pat can work it out
Peter
Hi,

Very nice work, I like your planish hammer mount very much. Can you talk more about the secret die design?

Also, does anyone know the dates of the Oblong event?

Thanks,

Bill
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  #24  
Old 08-31-2018, 02:56 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BTromblay View Post
Hi,

Very nice work, I like your planish hammer mount very much. Can you talk more about the secret die design?

Also, does anyone know the dates of the Oblong event?

Thanks,

Bill
Bill it's no secret,
For many Years now I have been shaping my own hand dollies for different purposes or shapes, I have learned that using the RIGHT shape dolly (even though it might look the same as the shape one is panel beating) one needs to look at the hammer blow and the reaction of the metal when it's hit...
in other words.... sometimes the metal needs to be stretched , sometimes the metal needs to be dispersed or...just be raised without being stretched.
Let me give you an example because I know that this can be confusing

Right.... when using the hammer the blow is usually to stretch, BUT.... what if the metal is already stretched from an earlier accident, or you have a small ding, which in theory it's already stretched.... well the hammer in this case is the wrong tool to use so what I do is use a much flatter dolly of the existing shape, and use a flipper to raise the ding up ..WHY the flipper I hear you say?? Well the flipper being wider and heavier will touch the high spot around the ding and the dolly will raise the hollow AT THE SAME TIME this way there is minimum stretching occurring,(very good method for repearing return shapes, simply because once the return is formed, if you stretched to much it simply get's deeper. ) Same goes when you put a new door skin on, you would not turn the edge all the way down tight with the hammer from the inside of the door frame
What I do is to turn the edge nearly all the way(not tight) ..then I turn the skin the right way up, and with the flipper and THE RIGHT DOLLY I hit the skin but the dolly is rolled in such a way that it's only closing the edge down (or should we say) making contact with the inside of the already turned edge NOT THE OUT SIDE this way you avoid unnecessary stretching (which otherwise will put a hollow on the new skin).

So let's get back to your question.... my dies are designed with FULL RADIUS for a start .. and the radius's are 12''24'' 36'' 8.5 '' and so on, or if you prefer 10''/ 15''/ 22''/35''and so on, the idea is to keep the radius of the dies as close as possible and use them accordingly, and...no NO FLATS SPOTS ON THEM!! In order to do that you need a material that is very hard and very stable, here is a clue.... if you use 41/40 and get it hardened for example ..well the core of that material is still soft so eventually it would flatten off and create a flat ...GAME OVER.... then if you use just any radius or close enough... well that is not right either, let me give you another example if you are wheeling up a panel you do not put a higher crown anvil than the shape you are making and squeeze to get a quick result you would use a flatter anvil, break the grain and wheel with minimal pressure, then... you change the anvil and keep wheeling with the same pressure and let the slightly higher anvil do the job
till you get to the shape you need.. (the idea of using PSI or anvils and dies with flats.....well I will not get in to that ...you know what I think of them...)LOL.

All of this might sound confusing but the idea of the right radius die, or anvil ,+ tracking and pressure.... all combined, either by wheeling or planishing, will determine the finished product.
Hope to have made some sense... but one day..... (if I can get back to the US) I will demonstrate all these theories ..... they work.....
Peter
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Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 08-31-2018 at 07:05 AM.
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  #25  
Old 08-31-2018, 07:57 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockHillWill View Post
Clint, I have been advised that the planishing hammer components are being air freighted in several shipments to Rock Hill as we speak. I will advice when they all show up and we are ready to begins up fitting those components.

Thanks, Will. Not sure I'm as interested (yet) in more noisy work as I am in quiet wheeling, but am definitely intrigued and very happy with Peter's offerings & perspective. I'll be watching for more info.
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  #26  
Old 09-01-2018, 07:33 PM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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I received two packages from Peter yesterday. When I get this race 'stuff' behind me I will post pics of the items received. For those of you that have been in contact with me regarding up fitting your machines and/or ordering this new item, I will try to provide some details in the next few days.

As reminder, we still have two of Peters wheeling machine available in this 6th shipment that is due any day here in Rock Hill. PM me for additional info.
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