#11
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Loctite make a range of bearing retaining adhesives for just such situations. They may have something that will do the job.
Will
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Here to learn. William Pointer |
#12
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Google na.henkel-adhesives.com for the loctite products. They make two industrial products to lock bearings in place 660 and 648. The TDS, Technical Data Sheets, can be found on the site in PDF format. The 648 can be used to take up .006" radial clearance and 660 can take up .020 radial clearance. These products are available at Fastenal.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#13
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If It was my night mare I would depaint a undamaged section and measure OD , Them I would turn on a lathe out of very heavy wall tube a section with a bellmouth going into a straight bore .002" - .003" smaller than OD of good section of original then remove it . I would drive / press / pull with threaded rod over OD to reform round again , Then I would Turn a mandrel to diameter of bearing with a with a spherical section and resize ID . The spherical section is so it will not make it oval if driven in cockeyed . A large bearing ball if available make a great mandrel . It is called ball sizing it works great on bushings and can work on steel also . good luck
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#14
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the way I reduced that opening on an old 356 was to make small spot welds with the tig around the outside.
two at 180 deg, and then two at 90deg to that. I did not add filler - just make a little puddle after 8 welds, dividing the distance each time, I tapped a little with a little hammer while cooling. I may have used a reamer when done.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#15
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If the tube is just flare at the outer edge you can shrink it and reshape it back to round by hammering a tapered bearing outer race over the end of the tube. I keep a variety of old differential races around for sizing tubes and for pressing dimples and flares in sheet. In your case I would weld a bar/handle to the race to hold/align the race with the tube end, and smack the bar with a hammer. Kind of like the inverse of sizing a ring.
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Still learning, still hammering Les Edmundson |
#16
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Lots of interesting suggestions. Thanks all. Back in the shop after a trip to see my grandsons new place of employment(auto repair shop). Picked up 2 new needle bearings and as suspected, they are a little larger OD than the old one, about .007", which will buy me .007" less shrinkage. Picked up a 2.25" shaft collar at the bearing supply house. The good upper axle tube measures 2.267-2.281 OD for .014" variation. The stretched lower tube measured 2.271- 2.329 for .058" variation. I put the shaft collar on 2 times, 180 degrees apart. Could not clamp it fully tight but the OD went to 2.274-2.302, so reduced variation in half to .027" Regarding taper, a little hard to measure so far with my bore gauge but after clamping twice with the shaft collar it varies by .006" at 12 oclock, .002" at 1;30, .029" at 3:00 and .028" at 4:30. This is an improvement from .010" to >.030 before clamping.
No tig welder, but can do spots with my mig and grind them off. Another thought is to just leave the shaft collar on permanently, as I think there is clearance. That would be my last resort. It does not appear possible to shrink beyond the first 20mm due to access. When I had the shaft collar on the second time, the old bearing was a nice snug fit and the new would probably require tapping in. Will think about all these different approaches, and look for more input after posting the above data. Thanks - Phil shaft sholder tightened down.jpg tighter fit with shaft shoulder.jpg
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Phil Last edited by foamcar; 08-29-2016 at 08:44 AM. |
#17
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Remember the metal has spring back. Add a couple of small pieces of tinfoil when working a high spot. Between inside of collar and the sleeve. your bore gauge will be your guide when the metal moves. Just tap outside of collar with Hammer.
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Greg |
#18
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Success. I did some heat shrinking at the worst area, then put the shaft collar back on. Got it as tight as I could 2 times, 180 degrees apart. Still a little large and larger yet at the bad spot. Cut a piece off my feeler gauge and put over the bad area. Put the collar back on and used a big brass hammer to whack it tighter, each time I could tighten the bolts a little more. The gap on the collar got much tighter. Removed collar and could not insert the bearing. Measurement now showed much less taper and OD matched the OD of a good tube. My used original bearing arrived during lunch break so I drove it in with a 2x4 covering the end. Definitely a press fit like it is supposed to be. Installed the control arm and it is a snugger fit than the others, but suspect it will loosen up with usage. Thanks for all of the tips and PMs. Would never have gotten it done without your help.
collar 1.jpg collar 2.jpg original bearing installed.jpg Phil
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Phil Last edited by foamcar; 08-30-2016 at 07:12 PM. |
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