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  #21  
Old 05-10-2010, 08:07 PM
fred26t fred26t is offline
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Default rivits..

I worked for Douglas Aircraft many many years ago when planes were rivited together,here is what I remember: 1 1/2 time dia. is the correct lenght to have sticking through to rivit. Many rivits are squized not gunned. This allows more control. Aircraft Spruce.com has the handsquizeers. The machine to finish a flush head rivit is a micro-mill and they are not cheap about $750.00 for a moderate priced on last time I looked.
Also you can double flush a rivit by countersinking both sides of the sheeting before you rivit. This is used mostly on things like airplane cowels that have a doubler panel on the inside for strength. That was probably more than .02 Fred26T
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  #22  
Old 05-10-2010, 09:19 PM
Sean Sean is offline
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That's great Ian I'm glad you have gotten some good results. I hope to see some pics of your project.
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  #23  
Old 05-11-2010, 12:28 AM
gonejunking gonejunking is offline
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Your doing a car, no need to worry about rivet selection other then what looks good. Unless you are building a supperlegga race car, you'll most likly never come close to the shear strength of the rivet to edge margin, even if you space them 25mm apart, 25mm from the edge.

Find a rivet that looks like what you want and use it. If you must worry about something, then worry about what count's, a well set rivet!!

There are some good advice given in this thread, but the most important thing with a rivet, is a good set. You can use just about anything to crush the rivet, a drill press, arbor press, rivet squeeze, "C" clamp, hammer and bucking bar, etc. But again the most important item is a good set with both sheets of metal butted up to each other with no gaps between them, and no protruding rivet between them. Easier said then done.

I use a rivet squeeze jaw in my shop press, if I'm only doing a few rivets.


If you look close, you will see that the bottom die is concave to match the rivet head, and the upper dies has a spring loaded sleeve around the anvil! This is the critical tool!! When you press down on the jaws to squeeze the rivet, the spring loaded sleeve contacts the metal first! Then as you apply more pressure, the sleeve pushes the 2 sheets of metal together with increasing pressure, then the anvil contact's the rivet and starts to deform it.

If you use a drill press, you can use the side depth stop to limit your crush of the rivet. When I've used a drill press, I would bring the spring loaded sleeve die down until the spring compressed, and the anvil touched the rivet, set the stop there, release pressure, back up 2 turns on the depth stop, then crush the rivet. If that was enough crush, I'd start doing the rest of the rivets, if not, back off another turn, until I got the crush that I wanted. Once you have the depth stop set, you can set any number of rivets, as long as the rivet and material stay the same.
Here are some of my dies, though these are not the ones I use the most.

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This is just my 2c worth
Jeffrey
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  #24  
Old 05-11-2010, 01:39 PM
redoxide redoxide is offline
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a couple of pics of the results... nothing fancy, my first forry into riveting.. the backside looks good too, I had this idea in my head that they were done completely diffrently, but the help and advice on here sorted me out and gave me the confidence to go for it. OK its only rivets but you can make a proper mess, as I had with a couple of early efforts ( that I thought looked fine ) before seeking advice. Im happy with these, only another 500 to go
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  #25  
Old 05-11-2010, 06:05 PM
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racer-john racer-john is offline
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Default Riviting.

Nice job on the panels and the riviting.
John
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  #26  
Old 05-12-2010, 09:46 PM
chris@whiterhino chris@whiterhino is offline
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I was just about to post something on this. I need to do the rivets on the model A and had no idea where or how I would get this done. Any sources for rivets that you guys recommend?
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  #27  
Old 05-13-2010, 06:43 PM
redoxide redoxide is offline
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Chris, I hope this post was as helpfull to you as it was to me, unfortunately I cant offer you any info on rivet sources that would be any use to you since im in the UK, what I can tell you though is that there not cheap... 1200 worked out at £125... whatever that is in $s..worth it though for the experience and the overall look..
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  #28  
Old 05-13-2010, 09:02 PM
Gitzit Gitzit is offline
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Default Rivets

Here in the US you can order rivets from Aircraft Spruce here is a link to their rivets. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/solidalumrivets.php They sell some kits of various sizes at the bottom of the page. If you want the universal head rivets that are heat-treated buy the AN470AD ones. There are alot of rivets in an 1/8 lbs of the small sizes.

Neil Dunder
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  #29  
Old 05-13-2010, 10:33 PM
Barry Barry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redoxide View Post
Chris, I hope this post was as helpfull to you as it was to me, unfortunately I cant offer you any info on rivet sources that would be any use to you since im in the UK, what I can tell you though is that there not cheap... 1200 worked out at £125... whatever that is in $s..worth it though for the experience and the overall look..
Wow Ian - that seems expensive. I bought a couple of hundred domed head(3mm & 4.2mm x 6mm) a while back and paid with metal money. Don't recall exactly, but probably no more than 3-4 quid!
Job looks great BTW
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  #30  
Old 05-14-2010, 08:24 AM
Mike Rouse Mike Rouse is offline
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Default Commercial rivets

Try going to Mill Supply web site. They sell Braiser head rivets for use on aluminum step vans. They have real good prices.
Mike
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