Another drag car ---- 64 Fairlane

[qkiss]

A cardboard end cap pattern was made up by laying the carbon fiber wheel tub on a piece of cardboard, tracing it and cutting it out. It was then numbered on 4 inch centers. With pattern clamped to the frame in place. Measurements were taken on each number from the pattern to the inner 1/4 panel and documented.
A piece of cardboard the size of the radiused arch section is cut out and run through the roll to help shape the radius then taped to the end cap to make a cardboard wheel tub.
The previously documented measurements are then transferred by placing a dot at each corresponding number.
The dots are then connected to form a conture similar to the inner 1/4 panel.
A piece of 3/4'' aluminum sheet metal angle made up in a brake and with the shrinker shaped to match the tubs.
Shaped angle clecoed inside to hold true conture of outer edge.
The pattern is fine tuned with poster board.
The pattern is then clamped to the inside of the carbon fiber wheel tub and traced.
Pattern removed leaving the silver pencil transferred line for cutting.

[qkiss]

Good feeling to know the tubs fit as planed and the measurements all worked as planed.
Filler in the 1/4 window to receive upper part of tub.
The tops of the tubs must be level. It is amazing how little out of level can be seen by the naked eye.
The wheel tubs are huge and cover a large area in the back of the car that requires tin work.
Our goal was to install the wheel tubs as high as possible. Mission accomplished.

[skintkarter]

Nicely done Steve. I'm going to steal your idea with the plastic window mounts. Did you get these strips cut from 16 gauge and presume you will be putting some form of rivnut in? Thanks again for posting - very inspiring.

[qkiss]

Thanks Richard;
Putting some info and pictures together on mounting lexan windows.

One of the things that was not mentioned in the wheel tub posts above is these photos show clearly how important thinking ahead on the cage tube placement is. Notice how well every thing fits together.

[Jere]

Nice work Steve.

You are correct, in that, making things fit is very important but making things miss takes a little more thought.

Jere

[qkiss]

Originally Posted by skintkarter

Nicely done Steve. I'm going to steal your idea with the plastic window mounts. Did you get these strips cut from 16 gauge and presume you will be putting some form of rivnut in? Thanks again for posting - very inspiring.

The lexan mounting strips can be purchased at chassis supply shops in the U.S. There are two different styles used in the photo above. The ones with the cleco in it is used to connect the cage "A" post tubes with the body "A" post are .030 thick 4130 with holes on 4" centers from www.jerrybickel.com. -- The strips used for mounting the windows are .030 thick mild steel on 3" centers from www.quartemax.com and are easy to form with a landcaster style stretcher.
I like to use machine screws with nylon lock nuts. The screw in the picture is a 100 degree head AN flat head. The drill has an adjustable micrometer stop-countersink unit in it for drilling accurate counter sinks for flat head screws and rivets. Countersink bits with pilots of different sizes and tapers are available to suite your application.
This shows a piece lexan that has been countersunk with a flathead screw in place. The other countersink bits are for the standered 82 degree head machine screws.
my preference for nut inserts are pem nuts the style used on aftermarket disc brake aluminum caliper brackets. www.pemnut.com.
They are available in New Zealand @ EDL Fasteners Ltd Auckland.
They come in a variety of sizes grip lengths and alloys. Top of the photo shows an aluminum insert installed in a piece of 040 aluminum sheet.

[skintkarter]

Wow! Thanks for this detailed tutorial Steve and thanks for looking into who has PEM nuts here. I'll call into EDL next time I'm around their area. There are a number of laser and water jet shops around here now, so I should be able to get some strips cut. We don't have the population here to support a chassis shop!

[qkiss]

Originally Posted by Jere

Nice work Steve.

You are correct, in that, making things fit is very important but making things miss takes a little more thought.

Jere

I have read your post several times and would like to make sure I understand and not missing something. The way I understand it is like don't paint yourself in a corner by welding something in the way of something essential like welding a cage tube right where the drive shaft should go. Was that your point. If not I missed it so let me know.

[Jere]

Yes Steve you got it. Like when building a sprint car chassis. I ask if the fuel pump is driven off the cam or cable drive. They look at me like I'm crazy. You have to know way in advance what is going where.

Your work is top notch.

Jere

[Jere]

By the way. Are you getting your aluminum from Metal Service Center?

Jere