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  #81  
Old 01-26-2014, 12:38 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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The last few weeks...









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  #82  
Old 01-26-2014, 12:38 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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continued...












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  #83  
Old 01-26-2014, 12:58 PM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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That floor is looking good Jordan.

Very nice.
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  #84  
Old 01-26-2014, 01:25 PM
Doug M Doug M is offline
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That floor looks great. it is tight and well made.

I do wonder if you have provision to remove the engine and transmission. taking off the bottom off the cross member with the transmission mount or removing the transmission mount to allow clearance to lower the tranny and slide the gearbox forward.

I would hope I could be as neat in an assembly like that.
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  #85  
Old 01-28-2014, 09:30 AM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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Doug,

It is not equipped with a removable trans cross member yet. It was one of those things that I overlooked. When the body comes off, I plan to retrofit the cross member with a removable center section.
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  #86  
Old 02-11-2014, 12:28 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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I got the tunnel finished up. I'm still figuring out the plannishing hammer.
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  #87  
Old 01-02-2015, 05:55 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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Default Back at it!

Its been damn near a year since the last time I worked on the car. My wife and I sold our house, moved in with in-laws for 3 months and eventually bought a new place. The house was pretty trashed and needed a ton of work, so the car was sidelined for many more months. I did at least get a chance to epoxy the floors and run some electrical to my equipment.

I couldn't stand to watch it sit anymore. Home projects be damned, the car must continue as well! Today I started measuring and cutting again.


So here is my current metal shaping question. I need to be able to access the wishbones. I am making the lower portion of the cowl removable. I want to make a step flange along the radius of the cut in the picture. It needs to be 5/8" wide by about and 1/8" deep. The metal is probably about 18g. I got a little ahead of myself and welded in the firewall, so I cannot remove the piece and use my bead roller. It has to be done in place.


I want the step to be nice and defined. I've seen the modified vice grips that do it, but I'm not sure the step will be as clean as I would like. Do any of you super talented gentleman have a good suggestion? Thanks in advance!
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  #88  
Old 01-02-2015, 06:10 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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I've got a pneumatic step flanger, but it works like crap on anything thicker than 22g. I need something rapid fire so I don't get any funny bulges or squared corners. I'm wondering if something like this would be worth trying...
http://www.eastwood.com/s-g-tool-aid...per-91625.html
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  #89  
Old 01-02-2015, 07:39 PM
fabricator fabricator is offline
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I want the step to be nice and defined. I've seen the modified vice grips that do it, but I'm not sure the step will be as clean as I would like. Do any of you super talented gentleman have a good suggestion? Thanks in advance![/QUOTE]

Hi, I have this tool, works very well , but practice first, before using on your panel!
http://www.ustool.com/tp548-metal-wo...4460-l-en.html

Regards,
Neil
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  #90  
Old 01-02-2015, 08:02 PM
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Joe Hartson Joe Hartson is offline
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This is a set of Flattener dies for a bead roller and will give you a very flat and crisp edge, flange. They work best in a bead roller that has one adjustable shaft that moves in and out.









I misread what you needed initially. The picture below would solve your problem and that is why it was made. Take the bead roller to the car.



Picture showing the size compared to the big bead roller, it is sitting on top of the big roller.

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