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Old 11-25-2013, 12:43 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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Default TIG butt weld 18ga, cant blend together

I'm going through the process of teaching myself to TIG all of my patch panels in rather than MIG. I'm getting very close to achieving the results I am looking for but I need a few pointers...

I'm welding 18 ga cold steel for my 29 Ford roadster.
I have nice tight gaps.
50 amps, .035 filler wire added constantly and consistently.
I am able to achieve a nice uniform HAZ never any larger than about 3/4" top to bottom.
I wait until the weld is cold and plannish the proud and the HAZ.
I usually grind a very little with a 3" roloc and finish with a file.

The problem I am having is there is almost always about a 1/32" on either side of the weld that is just barely sunken. I can not get it to blend out unless I get way too crazy with a grinder. I want my seams to disappear with a DA.

All you expert TIGers out there; should I be grinding the proud down before I attempt to plannish? Maybe delicately use a cutting wheel or sanding drum?
Help!
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:48 PM
nightperson nightperson is offline
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its either speed- not letting the puddle flow out all the way
arc length
filler rod size

from my experience arc length was a problem for me and still is
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:40 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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Here is an absolute "best case scenario" weld for me. 18ga on the bench, 50amps, .035 filler.

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Old 11-25-2013, 05:18 PM
Maxakarudy Maxakarudy is offline
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Hi Jordan,
Welding looks fine to me, the fact that you want a flat weld not a raised weld is only due to you adding filler wire, when it's not required.
If you've got a tight joint no gap, you need no filler wire or very little.
You have grind the weld off before you planish it or the joint will be uneven. You can also run the tig on the backside just even out the joint, try without wire, see how you get on.
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:59 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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I've tried fusion and welding with less wire before, but I always ended up with little pitts that I couldn't plannish out without over stretching the panel. What do you guys with those "invisible welds" do? Grind a little before plannish?
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:32 PM
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www.kustomgarage.com.au www.kustomgarage.com.au is offline
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I agree with Martin,
but you should always add filler when tig welding as it contains alloys To help with the welding process. I use ER70s-6 .9mm cut from the MIG wire roll, I only add a small drop every 5mm or so, instead of adding wire for build, think of it as adding an ingredient to the mix to help the welding process, like adding hardener or thinners to paint it helps if it a measured amount. Look up the chemical composition of the filler that you have and others to see what the data sheet specs are, it will also tell you welding specs. ER70s-6 contains, carbon (base metal), manganese. (for strength and acts as a dioxadizer to remove oxigen from the weld) and silicone (for dioxadizing the weld). I run about 30 amps and a slow flat puddle with no build making sure of full penetration.

Good luck hope this helps.
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:39 PM
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jhnarial jhnarial is offline
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Let's see some pictures of your project, we have been working on a 28 ford roadster
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:55 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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I've got a build thread over here...
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=5778
I'm going to give your advice a try Jamie. Everyone seems to have their own twist on it, something has got to work for me.
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:36 PM
weldtoride weldtoride is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by www.kustomgarage.com.au View Post
I agree with Martin,
but you should always add filler when tig welding as it contains alloys To help with the welding process. I use ER70s-6 .9mm cut from the MIG wire roll, I only add a small drop every 5mm or so, instead of adding wire for build, think of it as adding an ingredient to the mix to help the welding process, like adding hardener or thinners to paint it helps if it a measured amount. Look up the chemical composition of the filler that you have and others to see what the data sheet specs are, it will also tell you welding specs. ER70s-6 contains, carbon (base metal), manganese. (for strength and acts as a dioxadizer to remove oxigen from the weld) and silicone (for dioxadizing the weld). I run about 30 amps and a slow flat puddle with no build making sure of full penetration.

Good luck hope this helps.

Ditto, I find that it only takes a small amount of filler to help provide with the cleaning, and I personally am happier with my welds, when I do as Jamie does in the above, and add a little filler. Besides, I have a filler wire in my hand because occasionally my fit-up isn't what it should be. The s-6 series rods also help puddle fluidity.

Another reason to add a bit of filler is if the panel isn't as clean as new steel, or has minor pitting, or the back isn't as clean as the front, etc.
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:25 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanrhart View Post
I've tried fusion and welding with less wire before, but I always ended up with little pitts that I couldn't plannish out without over stretching the panel. What do you guys with those "invisible welds" do? Grind a little before plannish?
Like the guys are saying, if you cannot get enough metal in the puddle then you have to add some - not a LOT - just some. Practice the different techniques on scraps and then make notes on what you find. Keep them in your toolbox for reference. I still have samples from decades ago, reminding me what the differences are in different techniques.

For me it is sometimes difficult to get perfect fits every time so I can make the perfect weld and do the perfect planishing. Some jobs just do not require perfect-perfect-perfect. Do what you can with your eye on improvement. Perfect comes with skill, which comes with experience.
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