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Old 03-21-2012, 02:17 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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Default Jordan's 1929 Ford Roadster

Hey fella's

I've been lurking around for awhile and I am completely mystified by much of what I find on here. The level of talent is incredible! I have so many questions for you guys. Most of my questions center around the build of my 29 roadster. I figured it was time to come out of the shadows and start asking questions.

Some of you may have stumbled across my car on ruffrodders or a few posts on the hamb...


The next step on my car is building a recessed firewall. I have a few ideas rolling around my head. Here is the first. Excuse my crude drawings...




Is this plan any good?
I also have a new Baileigh bead roller shane hooked me up with. Thanks Shane!

Should I go with a tipping wheel instead of a hammer form?
Any ideas would be appreciated!
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:23 PM
J. Clear J. Clear is offline
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Hi Jordan
Cool ride. In your sketch you list cedar for your hammer form. You would be better off using mdf, the cedar will probably be too soft.

J.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:51 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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Wait...maybe its birch. Its the sheet behind my bead roller. I remember I bought a sheet of hardwood just for this project. I looked at MDF but that stuff was exspensive! Birch ok?
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:57 PM
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red baron red baron is offline
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Hi Jordan, I used to be on the ruffrodders site, but haven't been able to for a little while. Looks like a fun project, what thickness is the ply?
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:58 PM
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Warpspeed Warpspeed is offline
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MDF is certainly expensive, but it also has no grain, hard spots, or imperfections.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:47 PM
Barry Barry is offline
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Where I am MDF is about the cheapest option.....

Jordan I would probably just go with tipping wheel for that - it appears that what you want to do is simple enough. A little shrinking/stretching on the various radii to keep it flat, but nothing difficult.
Hammerform would be seem to feel more controllable maybe, depending on your experience. But I have found that the tucks that form on the inside curves can't be dressed out fully on a wood form anyway. They tend to dig in to the wood.
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Old 03-22-2012, 01:49 AM
Dyce Dyce is offline
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I like pressure treated plywood. It's compressed (tough) and treated. it has a sticky surface that helps hold the metal. It's not cheap either...
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:32 AM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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Thanks for the information guys. I ordered up some more bead rolls last night, including a tipping wheel. My question now is, it looks like a tipping wheel will give me about a 45 degree lip. How do I get it to roll the full 90?
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Old 03-22-2012, 01:06 PM
Meeksie Meeksie is offline
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Tip it to 45 and then just use a hammer and dolly slowly to get it over to 90.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:14 PM
Jordanrhart Jordanrhart is offline
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Hi everyone. Its been awhile since I've been on. Most of my work has been centered around chassis fabrication lately. I didn't have much shaping work to share. Currently I've been working on the restoration of my 29's inner decklid.




I ordered one of Peter's videos and read as many threads as I could about TIG or torch butt welding. I think I am finally starting to get a handle on it.



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