All MetalShaping

Go Back   All MetalShaping > Metal Shaping Projects > Automotive Projects
  Today's Posts Posts for Last 7 Days Posts for Last 14 Days  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #521  
Old 11-01-2018, 10:10 PM
gootee08 gootee08 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Beavercreek, Ohio
Posts: 144
Default

just my 2 cents I like option 1. Glad to see the project moving forward!! All of it is looking great.
__________________
Greg
Reply With Quote
  #522  
Old 11-01-2018, 11:45 PM
ozcad ozcad is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Bonbeach Australia
Posts: 33
Default

I think that option two of having the lights inboard helps accentuate the unique shapes of the rear end. Just my opinion.
__________________
Peter
Reply With Quote
  #523  
Old 11-02-2018, 03:35 AM
Gojeep's Avatar
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
MetalShaper of the Month March 2015, March 2020,, June 2022,Aug 2023
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Eastern Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,986
Default

Both highlight different areas and think either would work well depending on what look you are after. I personally might do the outboard ones purely from the standpoint of practicality of keeping the water out of the light and safety point of view. We have laws here that also govern how far in from the sides they are allowed to be for safety sake.
__________________
Marcus
aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
Reply With Quote
  #524  
Old 11-02-2018, 07:59 AM
Steve Hamilton's Avatar
Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
ADMINISTRATOR MetalShaper of the Month Dec. '09 & May '11
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fond du Lac WI.
Posts: 2,405
Default

I like outboard better!
Steve
__________________
Steve Hamilton
Hamilton Classics
Auto Restoration & Metalshaping
Reply With Quote
  #525  
Old 11-02-2018, 08:13 AM
Jack 1957's Avatar
Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Dec . 2016, Sept 2019 Metal Shaper Of The Year 2021
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Strongsville,OH
Posts: 1,131
Default

Outboard. Have you considered making something like the 55 - 60 Corvette tail lights? They would not interrupt your body lines.
__________________
Jack

Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can.
Reply With Quote
  #526  
Old 11-02-2018, 09:17 PM
Scrap maker's Avatar
Scrap maker Scrap maker is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Sept. 2015, Nov. 2019
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 300
Default

I'm on board for the outboard look.
When i started my first car build I was watching the build of your car. Now on my second car...........still watching you, hurry up! Ray
__________________
Ray
Reply With Quote
  #527  
Old 11-16-2018, 06:00 PM
Kerry Pinkerton's Avatar
Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Near Huntsville, Alabama. Just south of the Tennessee line off I65
Posts: 8,321
Default

Ok, Outboard it is. Holes cut and stuck in place. Need to tweek the metal around it for a more flush fit but I'm not going for 100% yet.

Name:  20181113_140404.jpg
Views: 1810
Size:  52.3 KB

I've been thinking about the license plate holder for months. I don't like any of the solutions that look good...not that any license plate looks good.

Since I have to have a light on the plate, I purchased a couple of those license plate lights that have been around forever. I'm just going to cut a hole as close as I can get it to the profile of the back of the car, and create an inset that is deep enough that I can put the lights in it where they won't be visible unless someone gets on the ground. The exhaust tips will come out just below the plate.

Also have the decklid gaps pretty close. Dang, this crap is hard. At least for me.

Name:  20181113_140225.jpg
Views: 1631
Size:  79.7 KB

I was going to make the panels below the doors that tie the front and rear fenders together but realized I need to cut some aluminum and didn't want to fire up the compressor. My shear is air powered.

So while I was thinking about that I decided to reach a decision about the side vent. Some months back we had a nice discussion of what could be done. Mark Savory did a photoshop that looked great and also suggested I could just mock things up with duct tape...so I did. The first photo is Mark's photoshop.



This is my mockup. Basically, I'll add pieces to split the current opening into 3. Behind that, I'll add some stainless woven mesh...about 1/4" opening and a 1/16" wire. I actually have some left over from a custom grill I made for my GMC motorhome but, sadly, don't have quite enough. The interior of the scoop could also be a different color for contrast.

Name:  20181116_151238.jpg
Views: 1520
Size:  52.7 KB


I could also put stainless trim over the vertical lines just to make them stand out. I still haven't ordered any stainless trim pieces and need to do that so I can get my head around any side trim. That decision, however, can be made after the car is in primer and road legal. I still intend to drive it in primer a while.


A question for the paint guys. I've talked about how the rear fenders are seamed in the middle with screws and nutcerts which will be covered by a piece of stainless. The fenders have studs that go through holes in the interior structure behind the doors. Washers and bolts hold them in place. The back of will be bolted to the structure at the very back/bottom.


My question is this. If I did away with the seam and welded the whole back together in one piece, I could still remove the back as a unit IF I CAN SPRING the body about 3/4". How flexible is the paint. I'm thinking not flexible enough but I know something can be added for plastic bumpers. Is this doable or a really bad idea?????


Finally, I'm getting pretty close to finishing all the major shaping. I have a rotisserie (Auto Twirler) that I traded an Imperial 26F for about 10 years ago. I'm thinking I'll pull the drivetrain so I can put it on the rotisserie and work the body the last 5%. I got great big pneumatic casters so I can roll it around or even put it on my trailer and take it somewhere if necessary.



The Corvette C4 has a vent that will leak differential fluid when I turn it upside down. I'll either have to plug the vent or pull the differential. Suggestions.
__________________
Kerry Pinkerton
Reply With Quote
  #528  
Old 11-17-2018, 03:59 AM
cvairwerks cvairwerks is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Justin, Texas
Posts: 115
Default

Kerry: On paint, select a system that is in use on something that flexes a lot.
A couple to look at are JetGlo and Ranthane from the aircraft world.

On the 'Vette rear end, remote the vent is the easy way to take care of it. Make a hard line to the new top of the unit and cap it with a solid cap with a couple of tiny breather holds drilled into it.
__________________
Craig
Reply With Quote
  #529  
Old 11-18-2018, 12:02 AM
Jack 1957's Avatar
Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Dec . 2016, Sept 2019 Metal Shaper Of The Year 2021
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Strongsville,OH
Posts: 1,131
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton
I've been thinking about the license plate holder for months. I don't like any of the solutions that look good...not that any license plate looks good.
Name:  s-l300.jpg
Views: 2012
Size:  9.5 KB

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton
My question is this. If I did away with the seam and welded the whole back together in one piece, I could still remove the back as a unit IF I CAN SPRING the body about 3/4". How flexible is the paint. I'm thinking not flexible enough but I know something can be added for plastic bumpers. Is this doable or a really bad idea?????
Don't bother with flex additives. The additive only stays active for about 30 days. I have raced and built and painted race cars for years. On some of the cars, the front fenders needed to be pulled outward nearly a foot each in order to remove the front end. The paint doesn't crack. The trick is to minimize the build up of fillers and primers in the area. Try to get the body as close to perfect as possible. Start with a good epoxy primer PPG's DP series then 2K primer surfacer as needed. Then use a quality 2K urethane, single stage or BC/CC, which ever you prefer. Don't underestimate the quality of the new urethane paints. Actually it's unfair to even call it paint. It's a polymer. It has more in common with plastics than it does with "paint". It consists of a urethane composite and a catalyst. When they are combined a third unique product is the result. If you want to demo that, just leave about a 1/2 inch of catalyzed clear in a plastic mixing cup over night. In the morning you will have a clear plastic hockey puck.
__________________
Jack

Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can.

Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-18-2018 at 12:14 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #530  
Old 11-27-2018, 08:56 PM
Kerry Pinkerton's Avatar
Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Near Huntsville, Alabama. Just south of the Tennessee line off I65
Posts: 8,321
Default

Thanks Jack. I'm not a painter so it's great to hear from someone who is.

The last few days I've been mostly thinking. Today, I decided to start cleaning up some of the 90% panels to take them to 95-98%...they'll never get to 100% and I'm fine with that.

I've decided to change my doors a bit. The upper rear is a very complex shape and it's very difficult to set and maintain the gap. Plus, it runs into my leg when I open it. The photo below shows the current door and the sharpie line shows the change.

Name:  20181127_125036.jpg
Views: 1879
Size:  47.2 KB

I can do this without making a new doorskin.
__________________
Kerry Pinkerton
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:10 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.