#11
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Well that is true, those are the sizes the Original ones were.
Kerry is Spot on, the originals were all FR Anvils.
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Joe Andrews Hoosier Profiles Inc 213 N 1st St Decatur IN, 46733 Phone 260-301-9034 Fax 260-724-2236 |
#12
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I just listed Our first set of 3x3's on E-Bay with a $1.00 opening Bid. Please keep these in mind if your searching for Anvils.
3x3 English Wheel Anvils by Hoosier Profiles Inc <---------Click it!
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Joe Andrews Hoosier Profiles Inc 213 N 1st St Decatur IN, 46733 Phone 260-301-9034 Fax 260-724-2236 |
#13
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You'll be getting an order from me pretty soon here, still waiting on my first paycheck from my new job. They just informed me that because of a screwup due to the fact it's my first check, no overtime will be included on this check, but my next one should be extra big and I plan on getting some wheels
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http://www.shawnmarsh.com - My metalshaping portfolio as I get started in the world of metal. |
#14
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If a TR anvil develops a flat over time from use; won't HPs 12 radius anvil with a 1/32" flat further flatten to a wider flat/larger radius?
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#15
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Those TR anvils were unhardened, but Joe can harden his anvils for you.
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http://www.shawnmarsh.com - My metalshaping portfolio as I get started in the world of metal. |
#16
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Quote:
If you think about it, any time you apply PSI between two objects, there is going to be SOME amount of deformation on the softer piece. Over enough time and enough cycles, this will be noticeable...it might take decades or centuries or eons but from a physics standpoint it's got to happen. I got tired of having my demo anvils getting beat to heck at various metal shaping events and shows and went with all heat treated anvils except for the specialty sets. The heat treated one's are all but indestructible. Joe's new price on heat treating is less than what Hoosier Pattern charged so I'll probably start recommending folks spend the extra hundred bucks and get the hard ones. I expect Joe will recut worn anvils for a nominal charge but you'd need to talk to him about that.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#17
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"A bigger problem is having huge pressures on the frame and pulling the metal out letting the anvil BANG into the hardened upper. Makes a nice flat spot that you can actually FEEL as you are wheeling with a stiff machine. Hint....don't do that!"
One way to help eliminate running off the end of the sheet when wheeling is to put a piece of tape along the edge of the sheet. You can feel it when you hit it and you know when to stop so you don't run off the sheet. Just a suggestion.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#18
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Great Advice Kerry and Joe.
As to recutting Anvils.... I can recut Any Anvil I have made before. If the Anvils were made by another Manufacturer I can still cut them but more than likely the Bearing Journals will have to be cut again as well. Normally I take the bearing journal up to the next largest o.d. size available. Without recutting the journals run-out will remain the same. I've been listing Items today so if anyone is looking Please check out my Listings.
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Joe Andrews Hoosier Profiles Inc 213 N 1st St Decatur IN, 46733 Phone 260-301-9034 Fax 260-724-2236 |
#19
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Let us know when you are doing the upper cradle/lifters again please Joe.
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Ross If at first you don't succeed....skydiving is not for you. |
#20
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Hey Joe,
Any chance of doing a 4" wide upper wheel?
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Brian |
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