#21
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Sounds like there is another video for yourself to make upcoming: RenShape 5166 machined mold and your flow forming tools then metal shaping over it to make the actual part. (repeatable)
I'm seen the RenShape material used but couldn't for the life of me remember the name of it. Thanks for mentioning it.
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• me: Mark • home: Dry Heat, Arizona USA • quote: What did you design or build today? • projects: Curve Grande and the 11Plus Le Mans Coupe |
#22
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Aha, I didn't know that one can heat treat o quality ali.
Does it happen that eddy current checking fails at a shrinked area? Thanks for the info. Frank
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Frank de Kleuver |
#23
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Hi Kent,
Thanks for taking the time to explain and show what you tooling can do. I was trying to compare your dies against the more widely used Eckold and thumbnail dies and I couldn't grasp it, now I have more of an understanding of how your dies work.
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Cheers Martin No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead!!!! |
#24
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Quote:
It isn't 0 condition temper that can be heat treated but the alloy of the ali. 1100, 3003, 5052 are all non-heat treatable, in any temper. 2024, 6061, and 7075 are all heat treatable, from any temper. All of them may be annealed, using correct technique/method. Failure happens when it does, from both stretching and shrinking, and the tests find the failures, even .050" cracks on an edge - much to the craftsmen' chagrin.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#25
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Some years back, this subject came up and Howard Booster, a student of Kent's posted these photos that explain the process.
http://www.strever.com/jag/shop/airshrinking/ I don't have Kent's tools but do have a big IR chipping hammer that sucks about a jillion CFM of air. With a slightly roughened surface my homemade tooling, I was able to shrink pretty well. Not as well as Kent's tooling no doubt but it worked. My problem was more not having enough air compressor to run my hammer...that and it kept making my ears bleed.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#26
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H Booster
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I'm using a high speed #4 motor (translation: planishes 12" gas welds on .050" 3003 to a polish in seconds). I've built a lot of ingersoll hammers. your Model #? ps, Howard Booster is an excellent metal smith these days, having navigated some 10+ years in the craft. He has also participated with his friend Alasdair Fraser in doing fiddle camp for about 30 years now. http://www.sierrafiddlecamp.org/
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. Last edited by crystallographic; 11-23-2013 at 04:05 AM. Reason: addition |
#27
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Quote:
hammer.jpg I built this back in 2001 before I knew anything at all...had the idea I could shape with it. It will do that but it takes a ton of air that even my 5hp 2 stage compressor can't support for more than 10 minutes. Teasible trigger but still hits a ton. I got it at an auction for 10 bucks I think...
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#28
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pneumatic efficiency
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And ya proved that a hammer that clears out concrete and tile will hit metal too. Theory proved with a little practical experience. yeehaw. A friend of mine doing metal sculpture bought a jackhammer for a job making one harmonious copper shape from several pieces. He clobbered up some tooling and blasted away until he got the shape he wanted. Said it was a real physical workout, but that it was a good experience for him. For pneumatic efficiency I've used an oilless 3hp cheap portable compressor at various shows, meets, and fly-ins. Those compressors make a lot of racket, but they will supply our #2 and #3 motors very well, doing 18ga steel and thinner. I use a 5hp to run motors #4 and #5. Our #6 is pretty powerful, so I use the shop 5hp 2stage compressor but change to a 3/8" supply line to avoid restriction. Oversupplying the air can get that #6 motor to shape 1/4" steel, according to those who use it frequently at that level. Controllability was a factor in this Hammer design, both keeping the motor tight in the frame and having good trigger response across the performance range. It's no fun having a motor slip in the mount, and it's hard to make good parts with an "on-off" sort of air flow arrangement. I guess it just takes time and effort to work out a good design, in many cases. I started with this contraption back in 1987, so I guess I am pretty slow at getting the point.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. Last edited by crystallographic; 11-23-2013 at 01:56 PM. Reason: addition |
#29
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I have an inline CP hammer on my planishing hammer. It takes 1/2" tooling. I made a linkage to lift the lower toolholder. It works ok and has alot of power if you want alot, but is very controlable with the lower toolholder on a pedal. I don't use it alot latly but it has served me well.
I understand how you shrink with the planishing hammer. I would really like to set up some dies to go into one of my hand held hammers to use on bigger panels. I'm glad to see you posting here Kent. I have some of your videos on vhs and you have my respect. You are a true caftsman!!
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Jeff Dyce Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something. Thomas A. Edison |
#30
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Quote:
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Jeff Dyce Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something. Thomas A. Edison |
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