#51
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It's great to see this work clearly presented.
I really like seeing what you're doing that will not be seen and your level of attentiveness to these details. That says more about you and your approach than the easily-seen stuff on top. Very cool.
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AC Button II http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel |
#52
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Nice work on the chassis
Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
#53
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Thanks for the compliments guys. Really makes all the time, effort and energy put into these projects worth it!
Quote:
Thank you, even though the plans for this are just a driver, I still pride myself on doing proper and clean work......it doesn’t take much more time to do it right rather than just doing it. If this was more of a show car, things would be more refined.
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time. Dane |
#54
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Before I get into the next update, I'm going to add one more picture that I missed that relates to the previous post about the front frame clip.
This is a picture from the bottom looking outwards at the joint between the outer frame rail and the inner frame rail. As I mentioned, there were some tricky angles and cuts to "notch" this to fit. Here is a good picture showing some of that. Not only did it come into the side of the frame at an angle horizontally and vertically, it also blended into and around the bottom of the inner rail. The original (rebuilt) Mercury Flathead will be used in this project. For ease of building, I'm working with a plastic Flathead mock-up. The transmission (also a plastic mock-up) is a Ford AOD. Before I had removed the original front frame portion, I had taken careful measurements for the location of the original engine mounts. From these measurements, I knew I'd be able to place the engine in the same spot (front to back as well as up and down) This will ensure it fits the firewall correctly as well as the waterpumps lining up correctly with the lower radiator outlets. Here you can see I've just roughly got the driveline set into place on blocks, so I can start thinking about fabricating some engine mounts that will work in the new front clip. A view from the side shows I've leveled the carb base. With the engine placed properly, I fabricated up some engine mounts that would work. The placement of the crank over the power steering rack had me nervous, but I triple checked the dimensions and diameter of the future crank pulley that will be installed and all will clear with no issues. A view from the front. A very simple and basic setup that will work just perfectly. A view from the top. I added the cutout in the top plate just for looks, and to take some of the bulk & heaviness away from it. For the transmission, I was just going to use a modern transmission mount, but due to how low the car sits at "air out" I did not have the space below the transmission for it. Because of that I decided to just use the same "biscuit" style rubber mount and similar chassis mount as I did for the engine. In the end, I'm glad the other center mount didn't work out. I think this setup has a bit more traditional look and feel to it. Edit: The tip on side portion of the bracket still needs to be heated up and arched slightly around the curve of the top plate (If you look at this same area on the engine mounts you'll see they follow the curve) Here's a view from the top showing the pair of transmission mounts. Next up was installing a cross member for the radiator support mount. This honestly just started as a 1"x 2", however, it just looked to "blah" and homemade, so I drilled out some lightening holes and welded in some lengths of tubing to close them off. Bent up a simple mount for the radiator support and pad to sit on. For the ends, I added some radiused filler pieces. These were just a top and bottom plate, with a curved section welded in vertically to fill it in. Again, this was just to dress it up a bit with very minimal work. It also helps it flow into the frame rails nicely. With the cross member and mount it, I was finally able to roughly set the front sheet metal back in place to see how it all lined up and more importantly to see if all my planning and measurements placed the wheel in the correct location in the opening!ha This view from the underside shows the radiator support sitting on the mount (it's just a 1/4" or so thick rubber pad) Also note the taper on the front frame horns gives the clearance for the radiator support and front sheet metal as I mentioned previously.
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time. Dane Last edited by pplace; 03-22-2018 at 08:28 PM. |
#55
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Looking good Dane
Very well thought out! Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#56
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Dane the chassis is looking great. Please post some pictures of the Ford COE in the back ground. Gulley
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#57
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I’ll post a few pictures sometime. That’s my father’s personal long term project. You know how it goes....you build everyone else’s projects but never get to work on your own stuff much.
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time. Dane |
#58
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I'll post just a few pictures of my father's '56 Ford COE project.
Here was the truck as he found it. Here was his initial rough in of the crew cab. It's a regular '56 pickup cab, with the back cut off and put back onto what was the front of the cab. Set a long box on After a lot of work. He added a rear tag axle (just for looks) widened and lengthened the rear fenders, built the full length running boards, etc. etc... All of the exterior is basically wrapped up and in rough bodywork / primer, minus the front bumper area (initially it was a roll pan, decided to add a bumper instead) Side view. All air ride at each wheel, his plan was for towing his 5th wheel camper. A Photoshop rendering I did for him helping to visualize his end "goal"
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time. Dane |
#59
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I like it--lot of hard work to make a great looking truck. Should make a real camper tow vehicle. Gulley
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#60
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I really like the 2 door conversion on the Mercury. You really got it right!
What kind of frame did you use on the coe? I have a E350 Ford frame and was trying to put a 53 Chevy coe it. The I beams are way to wide and it looks like I need to find something else. I am afraid if the fenders were wide enough, it wouldn't look right. Eddie
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Eddie |
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