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  #21  
Old 02-03-2011, 05:24 PM
David Rankin David Rankin is offline
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Default Light for E wheeling

I was wondering if the reflector panel used by paintless dent repair guys would help in wheeling a large panel?
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  #22  
Old 02-03-2011, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
Gene Newcomb said this on the old MetalMeet site after he had an event at his shop a few years back:



Gene's adjusters are basically trailer jacks. If you weld some flange nuts on each side of the square tube and put some brass set screws with jamb nuts on them, it might tighten up the slop.
This is basically how mine is, as well. It has screws on each side. They are currently wing nuts, but don't have jam nuts installed to lock them in position. Going to add jam nuts and see how they do, or replace the screws. If that fails then I will go to more extreme measures. If find it's easier to start with the cheap simple solution before going nuts.

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Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
As far as adding flats to the rollers, you can do that but to be very, very honest, you're much better off just buying a set from Hoosier Profiles. Also you have an issue adding flats to the Eastwood anvils in that, unless they've changed since I last saw them, there is no mechanism for aligning the anvils to the upper wheel. It doesn't matter with the floppy frame because as the frame deflects, any point on the anvil profile is the same. When you stiffened the frame the true radius anvils won't care but if you go to contact flats you'll need some mechanism for adjusting the anvil to keep it parallel to the upper.

The secret to making an English Wheel that works is being able to keep the anvil contact flat parallel to the upper wheel at ANY wheeling pressure. If you don't or can't, you'll end up wheeling on the transition zone instead of evenly across the flat. With soft frames, you'll be adjusting a lot but as the frame gets stiffer this becomes less and less of a problem.
Ahhhh.... These are VERY good points! Thank you! Hadn't thought of it that way. I'll leave the radius be and work with it. This wheel will eventually be replaced anyway. I'll just polish them up on the lathe and check for run-out. I really hope the lower anvils don't have unfavorable run-out. I don't have a radius cutter at my disposal. Fingers crossed!
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  #23  
Old 02-03-2011, 08:30 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Scott, the problem with the adjuster is that the only pressure points are the screw ends and they have probably dug into the quill. If you can get some brass set screws and remove any gouges from the quill it will be better. Better still would be to cut the whole thing off and build an adjuster that has adjustable gibs with full length quill contact.
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  #24  
Old 02-04-2011, 12:37 AM
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Scott,
I sent you a PM
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  #25  
Old 02-04-2011, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
Scott, the problem with the adjuster is that the only pressure points are the screw ends and they have probably dug into the quill. If you can get some brass set screws and remove any gouges from the quill it will be better. Better still would be to cut the whole thing off and build an adjuster that has adjustable gibs with full length quill contact.
Yep! I'm sure that's the problem! The quick release lever is really a piece of crap also. I'm have to make some changes to that as well. Eventually I WILL be machining up some new parts and will make a new assembly.

I'm going to pull it apart and inspect it. I think some gibs and/or alignment shims will be in order for the time being.
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  #26  
Old 02-04-2011, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Rankin View Post
I was wondering if the reflector panel used by paintless dent repair guys would help in wheeling a large panel?
Don't make this lighting deal complicated. Use whatever is handy, nothing special is necessary. I simply wanted to point out that a visible reflection across the panel can be another tool to help in seeing what is happening as you wheel.

Kerry P. your points on the capabilities of this users particular wheel are good and need to be addressed. The wheels certainly need to stay put and point in the same direction. Some of the equipment that has been marketed is a bit short of the mark. So, yes, to ensure success shore up the parts of your wheel as needed before expecting consistant results. On this low crown panel the flats vs full radius wheels may be of lesser concern. on a 36" radius anvil there will be only a slight difference. As the radiuses get smaller the flats
will become progressivly more different from the true radius type anvils. With either type the wheeler must pay attention to NOT allow the panel to tip or drop and be marked by the edge of the wheels. Those type marks are hard to remove and will often distort the panel.
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  #27  
Old 02-04-2011, 12:58 PM
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Going to get my mandrel ready and polish up my wheels tomorrow! Then I'll spend a little time checking out this lower adjuster. Then I'll start rolling on a practice panel...
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  #28  
Old 02-04-2011, 04:55 PM
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Quick question...

I chucked up the flat lower anvil and started polishing. For one reason or another, this thing had some grooves in it right from the get-go. Having troubles getting them out. I now have a really nice, polished, anvil with grooves. Should I actually start over and carefully start with a bastard file and then work up through the grits again?

Also! I find them to have virtually no run-out at all!

Maybe I'm just being a little anal retentive, but this really isn't the finish I'm looking for. Seems like even these minute lines would transfer to the panel, but then maybe I am being a little picky, since it will get sanded anyway.

Thoughts?



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  #29  
Old 02-04-2011, 05:19 PM
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Scott,

The file will or may just make more scratches as it picks up bits of metal. Choose a grit of paper maybe 80 or 120 and work to 180 220 320 400 600. the scratches will polish out.

You are correct those scratches will transfer to your panel.

You are in Huntington Beach? I am planning to come down for the first El mirage lakes meet May 14-15. I'd like to plan a visit if possible.
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  #30  
Old 02-04-2011, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
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Scott,

The file will or may just make more scratches as it picks up bits of metal. Choose a grit of paper maybe 80 or 120 and work to 180 220 320 400 600. the scratches will polish out.

You are correct those scratches will transfer to your panel.

You are in Huntington Beach? I am planning to come down for the first El mirage lakes meet May 14-15. I'd like to plan a visit if possible.
Okay... I'll resort back to just going through the grits. Thanks!

Sure! You are welcome to drop in! No problem! Just keep me posted on your plans.
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