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1934 Hupmobile 417W
I have had this car kicking around for a number of years and I'm finally getting past parts-collection and ready to start metal shaping. This will be my first metal shaping project.
That being said, I'm not exactly sure how to tackle the rear inner fenders. Please have a look at this video and let me know what your approach would be. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTFl9QgHSe8 I have a 20" import bead roller, a shrinker stretcher pair, sand bag, and a selection of hammers and dollies. I still need heavier hammers, body files, and spoons. Is there anything else that I need? Here is David Gardiner's post on a similar vehicle as mentioned in the video: http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=9119
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Steve |
#2
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I am thinking of making a couple bucks to capture the shape of the rear wheel wells. They have a simple arch so all I need to do is make one rib with a sander and then pound out a dozen duplicates using a router table.
Do I need an English wheel to shape the metal? I anticipate scrapping some material but I think this is where I want to start with the car.
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Steve |
#3
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I'm all over the place on this car but I've made some progress. This video is from last night on how I'm making a template using both sides of the car.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXU1GbReuHc
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Steve |
#4
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Beautiful car. What will be of it. Veteran or cropped "something" with a big engine?
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Jaroslav |
#5
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Steve there are a couple of ways to repair those wheel arches
If the quarters are in good condition simply make the inner either in one piece or two, meaning...... if in two pieces wheel the radius at the top then turn a flange up as wide as (half of the existing swage, cut the existing swage right on half distance and weld the now new radius (with flange) all around. Cut the the rest of the inner to give you access to the weld and finish that part off. after that cut a new blank and make the rest of the wheel arch and weld it to the rest ,be sure to weld the blank just below the radius not too far down in order to have less distortion from the weld. (that is 2 pieces) if you decide to do it in one piece....Simply make a pattern of the whole wheel arch allowing more metal where the top flange going up to the existing swage, shrink the top over all the way around (in this case do not cut the old wheel arch just yet ) once you have the right shape place the new wheel arc over the old one check for fit and adjust, clamp the new arch properly over the old one all the way around and scribe the line where the new wheel arch is going to be turned up to meet the old swage ,cut the extra metal out and make sure the the width of that flange is exactly half width of the old swage , once that is done, cut the whole old wheel arch out and replace it with the new one, weld half way in to the swage and you should be done MAKE SURE to prop the quarter with some 10 mm rods or square tube some how prior to cut the old arch out in order to keep everything in shape if you get any distortion from the weld, stretch the weld with hammer and dolly ,and if you can not get a good finish just lead load the swage Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
#6
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The car is going to have a 5.0 liter engine from a 1987 Ford Van so nothing too crazy. The body is part Ford so I decided to get a related engine as it didn't come with an original engine.
Peter, thank you for the directions. The quarters are good so I will take that approach. I am unsure that I can make the inner fenders with 1 piece of steel so I put that task on the back-burner until I gain more experience making smaller pieces. I finished the big templates and am very happy with them. I think I will save them and make some smaller door bottom templates rather than cutting out the parts. This should help later down the road. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIHufNpBm8M
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Steve |
#7
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They do make a beautiful car, lots of detail in them.
I think I would be making a seperate jig for just the body and get it off the frame. The jig would have to be precise to align the body exact to the original frame dimensions. Then you can make the pieces and set the gaps. I suspect the frame mounts right now are all wood and the body isn't sitting where its supposed to, know what I mean?
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oj higgins |
#8
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Oj,
I have considered building a tip-jig for the body but I'm afraid to take it off the frame. There is a lingering concern that I may tweak it in some way and never get it lined up properly again. The body will probably stay on the frame until I'm happy with the rockers. I do have the jack stands leveled out and the "cab mounts" are good. This car only has a bit of wood for tack strips on the interior.
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Steve |
#9
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Things are happening with the door skins. I'm unsure how to get the contour of the door skins but hopefully this works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaJRRPhQTsM
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Steve |
#10
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Here is a video showing some of the sheet metal work which I neglected filming on the first panel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijneidcAOLk
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Steve |
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