#1
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The missing link (well bushings) for home builders.
Check out from 6:24 on in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5WFKp3omEg&t=388s
this 31 Chevy rat rod build for a way to make your own custom sized rubber bushed rod ends, engine mounts and maybe even body mounts if you want to make molds out of paper coffee cup bottoms . Here is the link for U.S. composites http://www.uscomposites.com/moldmaking.html, they even seem to sell small amounts for reasonable money. Seems like this might be an answer for low production parts. I look forward to trying it someday . ~ John Buchtenkirch
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John |
#2
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More info, probably some of it is repeated but hopefully will help people ask good questions & buy the right product the first time-
Typical tire "rubber" (used as a catch-all) is around Durometer 70 vs pencil eraser Durometer 50 and hockey puck Durometer 90. The two-part silicone & urethane products I've used in studio are relatively simple to use. They generally recommend degassing of the mixed product before casting or pouring to eliminate air bubbles. Some settle out bubbles ok on their own and some don't. Depending upon the formula, some activate based upon ambient humidity even in cooler temps. As an example relevant here, if you mixed and poured such formula in your well-heated but very low humidity shop (wood stove) it will take forever to cure if it ever does. If the specific formula skins over fast and well, the interior may never fully cure. Either build thick items in thin layers or use a product specifically designed for a thick pour & cure. Some have a very long shelf life. Others are only dependable for immediate use. Measuring well on an accurate scale works best for me. Some of these products are very aggressive with great/permanent adhesion qualities, no matter what they touch. Others stick to themselves or similar materials well but won't even stick to bare plywood... Some will etch and adhere well based upon an acid component to produce the etching & grab. This may or may not be a problem for your substrate- like ok for steel but not not for aluminum. Just finished making some tank mount bushings for my Guzzi. Didn't pour them because I found suitable & cheap solid material for use this time. Casting them was my back-up plan.
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AC Button II http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel |
#3
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urethane bushings
Another option is using urethane die springs. Lots of durometer options and made to be pounded on relentlessly. Since if have a lathe, I just make the mating parts to fit the urethane. However, I seem to recall, when I was younger I found stock steel tubing to fit the die springs. With a light press.
https://www.centuryspring.com/produc...thane-springs/
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Bill Funk Last edited by billfunk29; 05-28-2019 at 09:26 AM. |
#4
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Quote:
Thanks for posting, Bill.
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AC Button II http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel |
#5
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I don't know if that is the particular place to play games with safety. Lots of questionable work on that car, and the homemade bushings in the 4 link bars scare me. A bushing set is $7 per pair... my life isn't worth a guess on that part.
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Steve |
#6
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Suspension, steering and brakes are all safety systems. I agree with toreadorxit.
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Why does dust stick to everything, but nothing sticks to dust? |
#7
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Safety should be important - over a few bucks spent.
"A urethane" is not always "THE urethane" you are looking for. "Just urethane" can be had from a hundred sources, and is a DIY deal, for sure. For my "serious" parts I get engineered urethane compounded for specific applications - temperature/life/and specific performance. By repairing high-end airplanes I got to know a nice urethane engineering company, with patents on their compounds - like for NASCAR suspension bushings. -end-
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
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