#21
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Peter. For better understanding of the procedure. It would be possible to draw a simple schema. Pencil on paper. Basic procedure.
The individual steps are very important for understanding. It can work in many ways. For easier path to understanding the master path basic ideas.
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Jaroslav |
#22
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Quote:
Unfortunately I am not good with computers as far as draw, or sketch and post it the dam thing drives me crazy. The only thing that I can do is weep up the section in question and take pics as I am doing it (my Son will reduce them to size for me) , then I can post them on the forum .That is as far as I can go with computers Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
#23
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Peter. Draw on paper and add arrows that point the directions. Shrink or stretch. Then take the whole picture from camera. That's enough. Whoever understands that, will understand the basic ideas. I was modifying the two sets of fenders. I was still doing the wrong shaping directions, fiber shortening and lengthening, but eventually I did it. The other products will be better as I begin to better understand. But it really is a heavy industry. Machines will help little. The basic principle is the main. Your knowledge is great. They should be handed over. Silly in the world is growing and needs to be balanced by something positive.
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Jaroslav |
#24
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Yes, I'm watching from afar and willing you on. The word 'can't' is forbidden in my shop. It's considered the worst profanity so I'm glad you put 'yet' after it. The other thing we always say is that if you don't give in you can never fail. Some clever people in here so I'm sure you'll nail it soon. And glad you're enjoying the tern sculpture and thanks for the kind words. First time I've ever posted any of what I get up to behind closed doors. Will
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Here to learn. William Pointer Last edited by AllyBill; 12-28-2018 at 08:27 PM. Reason: typo |
#25
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This is the way I would go about it. Im sure Peter will Chime in if it's not what he means.
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John EK Holden V8 |
#26
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So after trying to make areas 1&2 as one piece a few times I split it into two pieces. The next pictures are of attempt 5 of area #2 That reverse is like an unruly stepchild wants to fight you every step of the way. the next pictures are of attempt 6
I am getting close But there are problems with the piece, there is a hump in it that I can't get out and it needs to be flat in that area. I have tried stretching the edges to drain the hump out, I tried hmmm well I can't remember everything I tried I also think I have the part over worked an a little to thin. Picture of the hump What it should look like It actully fit better before I tried to get the hump out of it. By this time I had hours and hours into trying to make that panel. I was getting a little frustrated so I set it aside for a while and moved to areas 3&4. I think I do A little better each time. It is that last 10%-15% that is damn hard to do But I will get there I will make a big Healey fender, wing, mudguard, What ever you call it, take your pick. But I will do it.
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Dave Bradbury |
#27
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Hi Dave,
Looks like your a little tight on the wheel arch opening, that needs a slight stretch along there to release the curve you have. keep wheeling out there, if the top looks good then stay away from there as you will change the shape. Don't go to far or it will lift the other way. You are doing a fine job so far, specially for a beginner. The return looks great.
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John EK Holden V8 |
#28
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Because of the work done on those two areas (return and bulbous) I know where your problem with the lump could be
Going by the pics.. looks to me that there are two different issues..... 1....Either= the lump can be coursed by the inner edge of the return been still too short ? There for when bend downwards it's trying to bend the panel inwards making a ''lump '' 2.. Or= Because other two edges (meaning wheel arch and rest of door gap area, have had less work done... simply stretch those very edges very carefully till a bit loose (NOT TOO MUCH) then simply wheel just before them and work your way to the lump, BUT back the pressure off while approaching the full area in question (lump). This exercise will not only drag some of the full spot out, but increase the other two areas in question and level the panel up . If the area at this point got too full ? Well then stretch the two edges again ,then by lifting the panel over the top wheel drag the extra material out to the edges . If you going to do this last exercise? Make sure to do the dragging with very little.. or no pressure between the panel, the lifting action is going to let the shape out to the edges PS' you have done a nice job for your first attempt! ...And the sketch of the area to be worked is also correct ......I think you got talent just keep going! One more thing...please on your next post show which lower anvil or anvils you have been using Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 12-28-2018 at 11:46 PM. |
#29
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John,
Thanks for the tip I will give it a go
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Dave Bradbury |
#30
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Peter
This is my E-wheel you may have seen one of these before I have two sets of anvils for it a 3" and a 2" set. In the 3" set I have 3.25" 4" 8" 12" 24" 36" The 2" set goes from just under 3' to 12". They are Hoosier pattern wheels from Joe and Peggy. They are full radius wheels. All my wheels are hardened upper and the anvils That way if I drop one it doesn't get a ding or mark in it. I can also wheel a Mig weld joint after I dress the weld down without damaging my wheels When I try to do a panel I use a radius gauge to check all the shapes on the panel. Then I try to use the flattest anvil I can with out scratching or gouging or other wise mucking up the panel I tend to change anvils a lot on a panel like the one with the reverse. The shape changes rapidly from a 4" radius at the top rear to a 12" then A 24" at the wheel arch. At the door jam It goes from 4" quickly to dead flat above the body line. I see in your DVD"s that you have maybe four anvils:
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Dave Bradbury |
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