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Old 10-16-2016, 01:31 AM
zipedoda zipedoda is offline
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Default '35 Ford pickup- with a little help from my friends...

A question or two for the metalshaping collective. I have a '35 Ford pickup that I have been working on. It has been dipped. I've filled holes, put in new firewall, patched a door bottom, both front quarter panels, new floor and built a short bed. But I've hit a snag. Both doors have built in pulls by the windows. There is no separate garnish it's part of the door. Both doors have a crack by the pulls and were repaired poorly before I got the truck.
My approach was to make a hammerform out of oak that would eliminate the pulls and carry the door top molding, giving a smooth piece all the way across. I would then make a combo arm rest door pull when doing the interior. So I made the hammerform out of oak and tried a test piece. I couldn't get the metal tight enough to the form. The curves were too large. Also the wood deformed from the metal shaping. So my questions. Should I make a hammerform out of metal? Make the shape out of multiply pieces n weld them together? Or repair the existing pulls? How to do that? What would be your approach? Thanks ahead of time. I will post pix as soon as I figure out the way to post them.

Ralph
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:51 AM
zipedoda zipedoda is offline
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Maybe a pix?
http://allmetalshaping.com/picture.php?albumid=1050&



















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Old 10-16-2016, 07:38 PM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Hi Ralph,
Kent's knowledge on hammer forms is pretty good to say the least, so he's the man to ask, in saying that I have tried to use a air chisel for hammer forming and didn't work out any good, possibly due, to hard an impact, I have yet to purchase one of those air rivet guns, they suit the job pretty well, as many on here have done so.
So sorry I can't help.
Your image is not coming through for some reason.
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Old 10-17-2016, 07:03 AM
ojh ojh is offline
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I'd keep the pulls. Is it just the pull area or the entire top of the garnish? Did the existing repair use brass?
A couple pics would help.
I'd be removing the repairs to get to the original damage and then make some things to reach up on the backside of the garnish and basically hammer & dolly it back out.
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Old 10-17-2016, 01:46 PM
zipedoda zipedoda is offline
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Trying get the pix into the thread. I've got them in my album but it's not linking over. I'm using an iPad. I was going to try on my iMac later today.
Thanks for the replays so far
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:32 AM
zipedoda zipedoda is offline
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Let's see if this works for posting a pix.

http://allmetalshaping.com/attachmen...1&d=1476768390
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1120.JPG (68.6 KB, 76 views)
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:04 AM
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Joe Hartson Joe Hartson is offline
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Pictures now show in the second post of this thread.
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:14 AM
ojh ojh is offline
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Outstanding wood work. I would consider cutting the top section off the door, making repairs where you can get to it, welding the repaired section back in place.
Will the door have upholstered panels below the top or left bare? If upholstered then you'd have a place to make the cut.
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Old 10-19-2016, 02:20 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipedoda View Post
These door pull areas on the old Fords are prone to cracking. When I find one that has been welded and then cracks again I always suspect the weld, the filler, and the weld method.
A good weld should not break for a very long time in hard use after re-welding.
What I do is clean out the crack, even gouging it through with a hack saw or a small abrasive saw.
Then I align the start of the crack and tack it there. I then work the alignment bit by bit, tacking as I go until I reach the edge of the cracked metal, and tack it there.
When I re-weld the area I select a high strength filler .....
(not coathanger, sorry - I know how fond some people are of saying they weld with coathangers .....)
I will gas weld and use RG60, or ER70S6, and sometimes I even use 4130 rod and dilute it into the parent metal. In worst-case scenarios I will (sigh) drag out the TIG and weld it with ER309L.
And then say "good-bye problem."
(hope this helps)
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Last edited by crystallographic; 10-19-2016 at 02:25 PM.
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