#11
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It is also the EW hardness. I have hard wheels and I use little pressure. The pressure is gradually increasing. I still go in different directions. Gradually, I feel little resistance. That's when it's smooth. Then you can grind and polish.
EW multiple more times. It takes more patience. More time. You were not in all places, and you have a small radius of the lower wheel.
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Jaroslav |
#12
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Hello, I metal finish S.S. hubcap skins (.012" thick). I will try to describe the process that works for me. 1.hammer & dolly the surface as smooth as possible, I then use a hard black Arkansas stone on the surface to highlight the highs and lows. Then hammer & dolly or (depending on the depth) I will burnishthe back side with a hard plastic tool using a urethane block as a dolly. When I get the surface near perfect I use a fine India stone to get a uniform surface, finish with increasingly fine grits of wet or dry paper (up to 1200 grit) to a perfect finish. Hope this helps,
Tom IMG_20180826_134232.jpg Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 10-26-2018 at 06:41 PM. |
#13
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I've tried a bunch of different tools and methods since I started doing "bright work" along about ... um ... 1974?
Was block sanding for chrome plate in 1975, doing 600 grit on the nickel layer, after doing 400 on the copper. First Peb'l entry 1976, an Atalante. Aluminum ... been doing a fair amount of polish work since way back. 01233_n_17_ hood file.jpg typical tools and methods on this Duesenberg ... polished slapper (L) and track dolly and comma dolly. Vixen file (L of hood panel) Must file cleanly - no chips dragged on the back stroke. Period. No edging. Period. 01276_n_17_ hood sand.jpg Block sanding. Wet. Start with 320. Criss cross. X pattern. Change water often. Drops of dish soap help. Then 400. 600. 800. 1200. Change to Micro Mesh. Coherent grit sizes, not random -not ranged across 300-to-360 grit range. Nope. Grit size is held 315 to 325, for 320 grit paper. Coherent grit size on each paper. So accurate that the "regular stuff" is like driveway gravel by comparison.... .... And go to 24,000. Cannot tell which side has grit. Quarantine every grit stage on every part. Period. Or go back and re-do. 01051_n_16 finish_Peb'l.jpg Hard machined aluminum sanding blocks, lapped flat on glass plate. With handles. 4in long. 8in long. 11in long. Reveal ALL. (Like using whetstones. !! Nice work on the hubcaps !!! ) Curved flexible stainless sanding blocks reveal ALL, on curved surfaces. 01054_n_16 rear_Peb'l.jpg 00507_n_16 _ Ribbon.jpg 01208_n_17 body.jpg J120. Boattail body. Lots more images, but non-essential for this lesson.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. Last edited by crystallographic; 10-26-2018 at 07:18 PM. |
#14
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Great thread.
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Norm Henderson |
#15
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Still one of the best ways to see where your imperfections are.
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John EK Holden V8 |
#16
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Quote:
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John EK Holden V8 |
#17
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I was just going to suggest using a grid like you did with the lines. I know at the body shop I work at, all the insurance adjusters have white panels with black squares off grids or lines like you have shown. This really helps them find some
Hard to see variations in the panels.
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Cody Lunning |
#18
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Kent and oldnek, thanx for the positive comments. When I'm doing this kind of work, I use the reflection off of a mini-blind to check for any distortion and the location.
Tom |
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