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  #491  
Old 06-18-2018, 07:05 AM
Kerry Pinkerton's Avatar
Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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is it an optical illusion or does the left side 1/4 panel sit higher than the right?

It's an illusion thankfully. It's on the lift and doesn't sit perfectly level.
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  #492  
Old 06-18-2018, 07:38 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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It's looking great Kerry. I am happy to see you back to work on this car. You were one of my first metal shaping guru's and this project was instrumental in developing my enthusiasm. Thank you!
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  #493  
Old 06-18-2018, 08:03 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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is it an optical illusion or does the left side 1/4 panel sit higher than the right?

Oh, I see what you are talking about Neil. The right side bottom does indeed need a bit of reshaping. It is on my list.


My fuel pump died and I really, REALLY need to get the car running and outside on a level surface so I can get some perspective. I'll make a comprehensive list of all the smaller things to do. I know the door gaps need a good bit of work too.


Thanks Will.
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  #494  
Old 06-18-2018, 03:37 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Congrats!! I was hoping that you would get fired up to finish the roadster.

I thought you had A/C in the shop?

Crank it up and get er done.

Lookin good

Steve
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  #495  
Old 06-18-2018, 07:16 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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...I thought you had A/C in the shop?

Crank it up and get er done

The AC does a good job on the main room but when you open up the lift room where the roadster is it's just about a wash with running the big fans...except when welding. WHen you shut the fan off, it gets hot in a hurry.


I got the 4 corners welded in today. I'm not really happy with the quality of the work but it will be fine since nothing will be visible.


Now I have to work on the hinges and build the decklid structure.
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  #496  
Old 06-19-2018, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
Oh, I see what you are talking about Neil. The right side bottom does indeed need a bit of reshaping.
don't think i'm being critical cause camera's can decive the eye and a fresh pair of eyes looking over something can sometimes help. i'll be honest though it wasn't the bottom i saw, i was looking at the profile curve over the top of the arch's.

great job on this project though kerry, if i wore a hat i would take it off
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  #497  
Old 06-20-2018, 07:34 PM
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Plugging along. Decided to build the decklid structure. This is the blank that will ultimately become the skin:

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I sheared some 2 1/2" wide strips of .063 and turned a 1" flange. The skin will wrap around the flat piece.


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When I'm finding the center, I use a metric tape...easy to divide by 2I then marked off 5cm marks from each end for reference while shrinking. I used the Marchant clones initially but they are on the other side of the shop.



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So I ended up using my stand mounted Lancasters with Gitzit stippled dies. Not quite as fast or smooth as the big clones but a lot easier to move to the work for trial and fit. These angles have to curve in both directions.


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And here they are trimmed and clamped.


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And welded. Obviously, I will have to trim for the proper gap but I still have some work to do on the structure.


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I'm planning on using these Cobra hinges I was given. The profile was off but I was able to correct it with some finesse work on the press. They are chrome plated steel so as long as I don't get carried away and protect the chrome, I should be able to tweek as required. They already have a left side/right side bevel that looks to be almost perfect for the arch of the tulip panel. (I think that is what the panel in front of the decklid is called).


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Which leads to a question. My brake is a crappy import and I have not been successful making a nice tight radius on angles. What kind of radius should body openings have around doors, decklid, etc?
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  #498  
Old 06-20-2018, 07:58 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
Plugging along.
....................

What kind of radius should body openings have around doors, decklid, etc?

I see 1/16" or .063" routinely, on hand made, coach-built auto bodies.
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  #499  
Old 06-21-2018, 06:05 PM
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Had a few hours and decided to rough out the decklid skin. Interesting piece that was harder than I though it would be. The contour is different top to bottom quite a bit.

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Wheel work in the center and some shrinking along the edge. More at the top than the bottom. It easily passes Kent White's 'two finger' test. That is, with very little pressure it lays down as it should.


I'll shift gears and get the inner structure finished and the hinges working. In order to get the gaps set correctly at 1/8", I'll need a 3/16 gap to the opening and I'll need a rigid location in order to do that. Then I'll do the final shaping on the skin and start the wrap.
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  #500  
Old 06-21-2018, 06:13 PM
rkolenda rkolenda is offline
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Hey Kerry , good to see you going at it again.A 1/8 inch. gap in bare metal will close up quite a bit once you add primer and paint. You may want to open it up a bit.Bob.
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