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  #131  
Old 10-07-2009, 10:23 AM
preston preston is offline
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Why the heck aren't you using clecos instead of sheet metal screws ?

Also, have you mentioned how you are knocking down the TIG welds ? You probably did but can you mention it again - file ? sanding disc ? (what size and grit ? ) if so how do you keep from affecting the metal around it. I guess its my own hamhandedness but I tend to use a 4.5" angle grinder and flap disc and I start thinning the metal all aruond it probably cuz I'm too lazy to file the last 10% after knocking it down. Curious on your approach.
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  #132  
Old 10-07-2009, 11:35 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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I do use clecos but the self tapping screws are more secure for temporary driving. These aren't regular sharp point sheet metal screws. The actually are dull on the end and drill their own hole.

The aluminium grinding disks I use are Tyrolit Secur Rondeller, made in Austria. Amazing things. DO NOT load up with aluminum. Flap disks load up long before they wear out and become useless. I get them from BayStateAbrasives.com. I use the 60 grit ones and just knock down the proud and do the rest with a vixen file.
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  #133  
Old 10-07-2009, 04:37 PM
52pickup 52pickup is offline
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I think that if you just put a little crown in the headlight fairings it would give the illusion of a downward slope. If you look at an xk120, for example, the top of the headlights are almost even with the fender itself.

On the xk120's, the headlight pod is a separate piece that is welded on top of the fender, then blended in with lead.

Car looks good, Kerry. Looks like you've made quite a bit of progress lately.

Bart
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  #134  
Old 10-08-2009, 02:06 PM
preston preston is offline
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Kerry I looked around that web site for awhile and could not find these discs - its also a very "industrial" website, not really oriented towards individuals. Do you call them on the phone ? Can you provide a direct link to this product? Do you have an individual you work with there ? or a phone number ? i'm really interested in getting a hold of some of these discs but the only contact number was for Austria ! The search method sucked, I did get to some pdf's about angle grinder flap discs and such, but they were all listed by part #'s and I didn't have an hour to go through every product looking for these.

(do you have actual part # ? There are several "Rondeller" discs listed)

And I consider myself an expert at deciphering websites and finding products I need !

Last edited by preston; 10-08-2009 at 02:08 PM.
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  #135  
Old 10-08-2009, 02:38 PM
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Chris Bspoke Chris Bspoke is offline
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I use normal 4" 60grit sanding pad's but the trick is to load the disc with tallow this lub's the job up stop's the pad from clogging up helps to keep the temp down . the other trick is to let the sander do the work don't press down on the job just let it float this helps to keep the temp down also the heat from sanding is bad for the job and bad for the life of your sanding pad . Just keep sticking a bit of tallow on and you will be amazed at how long 1 sanding pad will last i think i've done around 50 feet with one pad and it was still cutting well.
The above is just one way that i find works for me .

Cheers Chris c
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  #136  
Old 10-08-2009, 02:47 PM
preston preston is offline
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Is that a 60 grit flap disc or a true flat surface sanding pad ? Not sure I've even seen a sanding pad for an angle grinder.

This site lists tyrolite secur rondella discs but still not sure which part number matches what Kerry is doing - they dont' show pictures of the actual discs so hard to tell.

http://www.abrametal.com/abrasives/grindangled.php
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  #137  
Old 10-08-2009, 03:44 PM
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Preston imo flap disc's are a waste of time you can't control what they do , i will post pic's detail's of the sanding disc's i use over the weekend for you.
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  #138  
Old 10-08-2009, 04:47 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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I deal with:

Yvette Adcock

Manufacturers' Representative
Tyrolit, L.L.C.
Toll Free: 1.888.447.5904, ext. 701
Direct: 1.760.439.2040


The part number is 908226. They cost $4 each in boxes of 25 and you have to buy a box. I'd offer to send you on to try but I'm about out. If I reorder I'll be glad to let you have a single but it will be a while. Yvette might be able to do a sample...I don't know.

I have a pdf file but it's too large to upload here. If you want it send me a pm with your email.

They look like a depressed center grinding disk but don't load up due to the way they abrade.
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  #139  
Old 10-08-2009, 05:01 PM
preston preston is offline
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How strange, I threw that part # into Google and got back to the exact same URL I posted above except this time it also printed teh part #'s. I wonder how that works ?

So if you click on the link I gave above, the part that matches the part number 908226 that Kerry gave is the 2nd block "Tyrolit Rondeller", 3 lines down A60BF, and you can buy them one at a time for $5.75.

So will grab a few of those and see how it goes, if I like them I'll get a box from Yvette. Thanks for your help.

--Oop - never mind, I just tried to order form that site and their order form does not work, I clicked on contact us and they are in Puerto Rico. I already entered CC info too, hope I don't get ripped off !

Guess I'll try Bay State after all.
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  #140  
Old 10-08-2009, 06:28 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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OK, back to the car.

Mark 'Superleggera' Savory send me an email suggesting I look at OLD style VW headlights. The ones that lay back and have glass lenses. Aftermarket parts are available with new 'non VW' glass and chrome trim.

A VW buddy happened to have some:

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I didn't have time to mock anything up but I did drive the car and got a good height measurement. The overall height did drop 1/2 inch

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We'll waste some aluminum prototyping in Oblong.

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This look was not unusual in the era. Lots of cars had glass lenses over the headlight bulb.

One other thing to be done is to design and implement vents in the fender side for the engine heat. Here is one option:

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I did drive the car around the block. It has new mufflers, glasspacks actually, and it's too loud but it doesn't drag going into the trailer any more. I'll need to figure something out to muffle it and not be in the way.

Also went through the carb and got the idle jets working. MUCH better!

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Couple things I learned when it was back on the level floor after having settled from driving.

1- Right front fender was lower than left and too low. I lifted it up 3/4" and now they are the same height from the floor.

2- The wheel well opening will need to clear the tire more. Couple ways I can deal with this, including raising the car a 1/2" with the coilovers. Or I could raise the tip line. Or I could raise the fenders in the front. Or.....

3- Damn it's fun to drive!
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