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1952 Dodge Pickup
New to the forum....
To help introduce myself a bit more I'd like to share one of my past projects. This 1952 Dodge pickup came to me quite hacked up with previous work started by someone else. It was basically a "gut" and start over job. If I can figure out how to post pictures properly I'll share some highlights from my portion of metalwork on the project. I hope you enjoy. This first pic series involves the custom firewall I fabricated. Here is the only before picture I have of the firewall / cowl as I was mocking up the drivetrain in the chassis. Here you can see my design of the beadwork both on the firewall and the recess flow at the same angles as the valve covers. I also decided to have them fade away near the sides of the firewall. Here I've jumped ahead and have the firewall and recess fabricated and welded into position for the most part. Here I've fabricated the forward sections of the floor, kickboards and transmission tunnel. An outside view looking at the firewall and into the trans tunnel.
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time. Dane |
#2
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This post will focus around how I rebuilt the door jambs. Previously someone had attempted to put suicide door hinges on and also during the process of the first chop on the roof the jamb portion was very inconsistent in depth and size which wouldn't have allowed for proper fitting of the weatherstrip. We wanted to do the doors suicide style so I redesigned the front cab jamb and fender mount to be very clean since that would be a visual point when the doors were open.
Here I've supported the dash, firewall and windshield post and removed the complete cab jamb in preparation to fabricate a new design. In the rear I've also cut out the jamb portion and have already begun installing a some structure that tied into the back of the cab and across to the other jamb. This gave proper structure to eventually mount the new suicide door hinges to / into. This is an example of the the previous jamb was. Very poor craftsmanship which certainly wouldn't have allowed a good fit of the door or weatherstrip Here the new door jamb is pretty complete at this point. The original design had the running board outside and below the door. I wanted a cleaner look, so I extended the cab jamb (and door eventually) and incorporated a hidden "step" when the door was open instead. The front half portion of the jamb was eventually attached to the rear fender edge and had hidden fasteners to separate it from the cab portion. A picture looking at the rear of the jamb, nothing too special. You can also see that I also re-made the complete upper portion of the cab / roof jamb. This is a close up showing how I notched the outer fender jamb to the cab jamb (in this pic the notch was actually done in marker, until I was ready to separate them for good and fabricated the flanges)
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time. Dane |
#3
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This update will be about the repairs on the back of the cab (I had to do some internal rebuilding of the floor structure in order for it to notch around the driveshaft, but this post just shows an overview of the exterior work I did)
The before pic...Underneath all the previous body filler (visible from inside the cab) are patches & repairs that I've highlighted in red. It was deemed easier and better to fabricate a new cab corner to get rid of the previous patches plus the fact I had to lengthen the bottom of the cab corner to account for removing the running boards as I mentioned in the previous post. Cab corner exterior trimmed out and ready to fit the new piece I had fabricated. Fitting the cab corner. Note I also trimmed and installed a finished edge around the complete bottom of the cab corner. The big "notch" is allowing space for the exhaust eventually, the smaller "notch" is obviously to gain some clearance over the frame rail. Tacking in the lower center portion of the cab. Another notch was needed here to allow clearance for the driveshaft when the air ride suspension was lowered. The passenger side cab corner didn't require as large of a panel shaped, more so just needed to lengthen it to match the driver side. Here I've also begun planishing and finishing the welds on the passenger half of the cab.
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time. Dane |
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Beautiful workmanship, thanx for showing us.
Tom |
#5
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Hi Dane
You are doing some wonderful work! Great design for the firewall. Door jambs are always a challenge, you killed em! Thanks for sharing. Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#6
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Thanks for the positive comments guys! This is a past project so I'm just going back and picking out some of the interesting metalshaping portions of the project to share here.
This will be a little longer post this time around. This update deals with the engine bay inner wheel wells, cold air induction tubework and electric fan shroud. I wasn't fond of how the inner edge of the fender was straight, when the hood reveal was a nice curve. I formed a simple edge and matched the curve and now have a new lip to attach the soon to be fabricated inner fender to. Passenger inner fender is starting to take shape. I incorporated a fade away bead that when viewed from the side follows the valve covers once again. Not visible is a finished rolled edge that gives an nice flush gap along the length of the frame rail (at this point I wasn't 100% sure what I was going to do at the front of the fenders, so I just waited to see what I came up with as time passed) Both inner fenders shaped up to the same point now (I forgot to mention it's all hidden fasteners along the firewall and the fender edge) I also began the air induction as well. This leaves a lot of odd open gaps and areas at the front that I needed to figure out! I ended up straightening out the front hood opening edge and made a panel that flowed into the busy area. I added a "peak" that flowed into the air ducting. This panel is connected to the duct, but not the inner fenders. Side picture showing how the air ducting follows the contour of the center hood panel. (NOTE: The welding / seams on the fender wheel opening is somebody else's work......that's for another update of mine later) Skipped ahead a lot of tedious figuring and planning for mounting the dual electric fans (all hidden fastening again) and have a full metal shroud. Another view of the panel between the front hood opening and air ducting. One last panel below the air ducting / above the fan shroud. This closes off the system so 100% of the air coming in the grille opening when through the radiator and the fans. Again this piece is welded to the air duct and not the fan shroud setup. Note 1/3 of the fan shroud is welded to and flows into each inner fender. Here is a picture showing how the complete ductwork was removable from the inner fenders & shroud.
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time. Dane Last edited by pplace; 01-03-2018 at 12:20 AM. |
#7
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Many thanks for sharing the work you have done. Looking very nice.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#8
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Awesome craftsmanship! Thanks for sharing the pics. All the air that comes through the grille needs a way to get out, how are you taking care of that?
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Barry Duckworth |
#9
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Super metalworking skills and planning. Never gave any thought to checking the weatherstrip fit when I chopped the top on my 56 chevy pu. Had to add some flat foam tape to the inside for a better seal. Luckily it was grey on grey. Thanx for taking the time to photograph and post.
George
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George If you are afraid to fail, you will never learn |
#10
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Thank you! I understand what you describe. I use to build / fly radio control airplanes and would try to shoot for a 3:1 ratio for outlet vs inlet for cooling the engine in the cowl. With that said, the grille area of this pickup wasn’t huge so I felt comfortable that there was nice good & clean flow through the engine bay & out under the cab.
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time. Dane Last edited by pplace; 01-05-2018 at 10:40 PM. |
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