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  #41  
Old 11-25-2018, 12:57 PM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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Working on it

IMG_20181125_125112564.jpg
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  #42  
Old 11-25-2018, 01:02 PM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
Rob, think about making a baseball bat hammer.



http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showt...all+bat+hammer

Cut the big end off about 14-16" back and put the bottom part as the handle at the balance point...not the center. Round off the cut end on a sander. That is my go to stretching hammer. Of course, I'm doing it wrong...
I made one to get started. That's what I've used so far. I'm anxious to try it on the stump now. I suspect it'll move the metal faster than strictly on the bag.
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  #43  
Old 11-25-2018, 06:40 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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[QUOTE]
Cut he big end off about 14-16" back and put the bottom part as the handle at th balance point...not the center. Round off the cut end on a sander. That is my ego to stretching hammer. Of course, I'm doing it wrong...
.................................................. .................................................. ........

Kerry YOU are not doing it WRONG (let' get that straight) the hammer in question .. It;s just too sharp and NOT heavy enough...................
When that type of hammer is used one will need to swing it very hard and loose control of the HIT ... when swung it create a bullet like stretch and the stretch area is very small, To shape steel evenly you need a heavy wide rounded faced hammer creating... or (stretching) a wide area on each blow with a medium swing and let the hammer do the job not your harm,

It;s VERY TRUE that any type of hammer can be used NO argument there ....BUT why make it hard for your self? Not TO MENTION that when you try to wheel those bullet hole like blows you need much more pressure on the wheel which in terms makes the panel very BUCKLING and hard to control resulting on a twist .

OK now let's compare the other way .................

WIDE and even AREA has been stretch, then ... put on the wheel with medium pressure very controllable NO BUCKLING... easy to smooth off.. no lines on the panel due to NO pressure on the wheel (JOB DONE!)

OK now....
just let me explain one more thing ..for someone that still not sure which type of Hammer to use ..............?????????
We are repairing two dents OK..
One of them is sharp, tall, and very small in diameter.. let's call it N 1. The other dent is much wider and much lower, we will call this N 2. NOW ......we will try to repair those two dents with a hand held hammer and a proper dolly,
N 1 dent will shrink on it self some what on the way down ....simply because it's small and high, which would mean that a small amount of shrinking (if any) will be needed to get it flat again. N 2 will NOT shrink as much on the way down because it's wider and not as tall, which would mean that more shrinking will be needed on N 2 to get it flat again.

So... N 1 is shrunk more than N 2........................................

Now consider this on the wheel when flatting off those high and sharp wall nuts that have been blocked on the panel from a sharp hammer. N 1 will shrink more when flattened meaning LESS shape. N 2 because of more wider stretch will keep the shape on the panel. That means on N 1 more wheeling and in some cases more blocking is needed ... FRUSTRATIONS set's in and more pressure on the wheel is used BECAUSE YOU THOUGHT YOU HAD ENOUGH shape in the first place..... that is when lines and all shorts of problem starts.


Just for the sake of exercise make a steel hammer about 1.6 Kg, grind and sand the face of it like described and try ... you will see the difference immediately right trough the whole job example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6DfdOFRPFA&t=164s

The way I described this IS NOT MY WAY to HAND MADE A PANEL, simply the way that it has been done for nearly 80 Years
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Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 11-25-2018 at 08:16 PM.
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  #44  
Old 11-25-2018, 07:23 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Not sure what you're going on about Peter. I do my stretching with a bat hammer with about a 6" radius on the the big end and 4" on the little. My other hammer is a UHMW faced hammer also with about a 6" radius. I have a heavy blocking hammer but prefer those two. Works for me.

I'll drop out of this thread. Our back and forth isn't helping Rob.
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  #45  
Old 11-25-2018, 07:50 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
Not sure what you're going on about Peter. I do my stretching with a bat hammer with about a 6" radius on the the big end and 4" on the little. My other hammer is a UHMW faced hammer also with about a 6" radius. I have a heavy blocking hammer but prefer those two. Works for me.

I'll drop out of this thread. Our back and forth isn't helping Rob.


Has I said before Kerry you USE and do, and suggest the way you where taught NO HARD FEELINGS.

And I will use and do and suggest the way I was taught........
let the forum members decided the way they like to approach it .............(SIMPLE.... AND DROP OUT.......
Peter
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM

Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 11-25-2018 at 07:58 PM.
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  #46  
Old 11-25-2018, 07:57 PM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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As with every trade, art, etc, there is more than one way to achieve a desired effect. It's important we all are open to trying different methods and going with what we're most comfortable with.

Just for example look at Wray Schelin's blocking hammer. Completely different than the one Kerry uses and Peter uses.

I appreciate both of your input.

I know one thing, I'm pooped after moving probably over 300lbs of oak today, carving it out and working on shaping another section of the fender.

Here's where I left off for today. IMG_20181125_181825313.jpg

IMG_20181125_165725170.jpg
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  #47  
Old 11-25-2018, 08:00 PM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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Really loving these oak stumps. Unbelievable how heavy and strong they are.
IMG_20181125_135038883.jpg

IMG_20181125_181903713.jpg
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  #48  
Old 11-25-2018, 08:01 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RB86 View Post
As with every trade, art, etc, there is more than one way to achieve a desired effect. It's important we all are open to trying different methods and going with what we're most comfortable with.

Just for example look at Wray Schelin's blocking hammer. Completely different than the one Kerry uses and Peter uses.

I appreciate both of your input.

I know one thing, I'm pooped after moving probably over 300lbs of oak today, carving it out and working on shaping another section of the fender.

Here's where I left off for today. Attachment 50150

Attachment 50151
The guard pieces are looking much better flowing and sitting on the buck !
JUST AS A SUGGESTION.... NOT necessarily my way......when blocking and shaping a panel check this out and PLEASE simply make up your own mind on how to do it or what to use................. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6DfdOFRPFA&t=164s
Peter
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM

Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 11-25-2018 at 08:20 PM.
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  #49  
Old 11-25-2018, 08:47 PM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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Oh trust me I've watched all your videos with great interest

When I very first took interest in the idea of metal shaping it was often I'd find videos and social media posts of guys achieving these amazing panels using really expensive machines that were worth more than my
own vehicle.

When Peach said you can achieve all of this with basic hand tools it was almost like winning the lottery. I knew if I worked hard enough I could build whatever I dream up. That's real freedom. You put work in and can achieve. I absolutely love that. Not everything in life works that way I've found, so I appreciate this a lot.

And what a great resource this has been. The more I do the more questions I have, but I try to think through them.

Thank you
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  #50  
Old 11-25-2018, 09:16 PM
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One thing I've learned this last week (among other things), it seems all the shaping- hammering, shrinking, stretching, wheeling is just so the metal will respond properly when it's time to manipulate it/re-arrange it by hand.

One situation I've found myself in a few times is that it doesn't always involve a simple fold over the leg, a lot of times it needs a diagonal twist. Might be from not even enough blocking.
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