#1
|
||||
|
||||
46 chevy pickup parts
Here is some stuff that I would say that is the majority of what I work on beat on with a claw hammer
First things first this fender needs some patches but the whole fender needs to be smoothed out fairly well before the patches can be welded in because you think about it all the dents take up some surface area so you can't really weld in pieces and planish them then hope the rest of the fender will come around. Smoothing with the planishing hammer with a delrin lower die so it will just squash the imperfections in the surface without stretching everything all out of wack. I like to use a planishing hammer die that is half the radius of the part that I am working when just roughing out. More smoothing and just cleaned up with a clean and strip disc just about ready to make some patches. Usually if I have a small patch right next to a edge I will pre stretch the new piece and the original metal in problem areas so they planish out nice after its all welded. Last edited by patman; 12-04-2012 at 12:07 AM. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Looks good!
__________________
Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
On to fender number two same treatment as the first rough out the fender reasonably well and start making the repair sections.
ok on to making a piece for fender number two I measured the the circumference of the round detail on the fender lip then marked that minus one materal thickness then marked the part of the flange that is vertical. here is the die set used to make the fender lip I just used a random profile die for a stop With the new part clecoed in place I used my little air saw to cut right next to the new panel and with the right thickness blade when you push the panels into alignment you have a darn near perfect fit. more work with everyone's favorite sounding tool all the radii marked on the new replacement piece handy way to set up your doming dies with a stainless steel ruler ready to cut and weld I like to pre stretch the seams just a little it makes it alot easier to get the weld to vanish welded and planished and cleaned with a clean and strip disc and who ever worked on these in the 80's should never be alowed to buy 16 grit getting close just a little tune next up running boards |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
BEAUTIFUL!!!
how many hours do you have in a fender like that? what do you find most challenging about the panel?
__________________
Brent Click |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks Brent, I had 8 hours in the first fender and 11 in the second fender. The most challenging part of the second fender was getting the wheel lip detal lined up I usually weld the whole patch but leave the lip and if there is a missalignment a pair of cheepo vise grips with a male and female die welded to them and some heat does the trick. Here is a picture of the vise grips
Pat |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks Pat. What did you use to make the dies in your vice grips and pulmax?
__________________
Brent Click |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Good work on the fenders Pat!
Nice to see your solutions to get what you need! Thanks for your time to post! // Per |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Pat is one of the stealth shapers. He doesn't make a lot of noise but produces some amazing work and is really, REALLY smart.
__________________
Kerry Pinkerton |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Great work Pat. I'm having a little trouble wrapping my mind around how those dies work. I understand the random piece as a stop but but I just don't see them making that nice lip.
__________________
Doug Walter |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Nice work Pat, and good time on the project!! How did you do the corners on the tail section you made. That's a wicked amount of shrink on the rear part of the wheel opening.
__________________
Jeff Dyce Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something. Thomas A. Edison |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|