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  #81  
Old 07-03-2018, 05:49 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Thanks, Dane. Guess I mistook some weld-through primer(?) as some old paint on a piece of original metal.
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  #82  
Old 07-04-2018, 11:38 AM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Dane,

What wonderful work you produce! I too have a question about the latest post of pictures. You shaped and formed new metal and tig welded it in place. Do you but weld with or without filler rod since you have the full size of metal available?
I have a fender that I'm replacing the lower edge that has a 90* curve and was wanting to do as you did but not sure on the welding part.

TX
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  #83  
Old 07-04-2018, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr fixit View Post
Dane,

What wonderful work you produce! I too have a question about the latest post of pictures. You shaped and formed new metal and tig welded it in place. Do you but weld with or without filler rod since you have the full size of metal available?
I have a fender that I'm replacing the lower edge that has a 90* curve and was wanting to do as you did but not sure on the welding part.

TX
Mr fixit
Chris
I’ll first start off with the disclaimer that an expert welder I am not!

With that said, I always struggle with fusion welding (even with the tightest of joints) So I do use filler rod, though I try to use very little of it. I just get my puddle going and add rod evenly and when needed. The most important thing for me is full penetration front and back.
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  #84  
Old 07-05-2018, 10:50 PM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Hi Dane,

I appreciate the response. I too have tried the butt weld with no filler and I seem to get going OK then I loose my spot or slow down just enough and get a blowout, then I chase my self around the weld and tend to make things worse. I'm still learning the foot control and amperage to keep this from happening. Everyone says practice, practice, practice, so that's what I keep doing burning holes as I go.

Again, terrific project and so thankful you share for us all to learn from!

TX
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Chris
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  #85  
Old 07-06-2018, 03:46 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Originally Posted by Mr fixit View Post
Hi Dane,

I appreciate the response. I too have tried the butt weld with no filler and I seem to get going OK then I loose my spot or slow down just enough and get a blowout, then I chase my self around the weld and tend to make things worse. I'm still learning the foot control and amperage to keep this from happening. Everyone says practice, practice, practice, so that's what I keep doing burning holes as I go.

Again, terrific project and so thankful you share for us all to learn from!

TX
Mr fixit
Chris
Make sure you match the tungsten and filler wire to the same size as the thickness of the sheet you are welding. I even use a smaller than metal thickness filler wire as less grinding as am doing gapless joints, mainly fusing, but the thin wire allows for the weld seam to disappear with little grinding.
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  #86  
Old 07-06-2018, 11:50 AM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Gojeep,

Thanks for the great tip! I'm in the middle of making a new water cooler for the torch as the fish tank pump in the bucket died, so I'll have to try your suggestion when I get back up and running.

TX
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Chris
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  #87  
Old 07-06-2018, 10:46 PM
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Once I have the rear window basically in the proper location (not yet welded into position yet at this point) The next area I want to focus and figure out is the rear corner of the roof and new sail panel area. Obviously with sliding the rear window opening forward about 7.5" and laying it down drastically changes how the rear half of the original roof skin fit.

The first thing I did (but didn't take any clear pictures of) were bending and shaping up new roof edges from the windshield and down to the quarter panels. Basically a piece bent at 100 deg. and shaped to follow the roof rail contour, it also tappers out in width from the top of the quarter window down to the quarter panel to compensate for the width I needed to achieve to blend into the future sail panel area (I'll try to remember to get pictures of this roof edge at some point)

With the new roof sides temporarily in place I set the original roof skin in it's rough location and started setting the profile while viewing from the side how I wanted it. From there I needed to remove portions of the rear corners and start fabricating new pieces to fit properly.

NOTE: At this point things are ONLY getting roughed in in order to sneak up on the correct flow, profile and transitions for the rear half of the roof. Initially I thought I may be able to save the center section at the rear half of the roof, but it appears I should have made my corner pieces larger and eliminated the center. It appears I'll have to shape up a center portion as well.....not a big deal, but I could have gotten away with one weld seam instead of the two or more now that I'll eventually need.

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Cut and shaped up a panel for the new sail panel. Pretty basic panel, but there were some minor compound curves in it.

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Here I've cut out what I thought was enough of the original roof in preparation to shape up new rear corners. In retrospect I should have just gone to the exact middle of the roof and eliminated the center portion I left. I thought that area was close enough, but it may be easier to shape up a new section for that area as well (I'll see as I progress a bit more)

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A new blank for the roof cut and ready to start shaping.

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The shape / profile isn't quite there yet, but it's headed in the general direction I want.

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Instead of chasing the fit of the roof to sail panel joint around I decided to weld them together and work it as one piece.

It's tough to see but right in front of the rear window I added crown / curve so the roof actually flows down and into the glass. Before I did this it was just too "flat" looking. I think this now follows the concept rendering profile I initially came up with at the start of the project.

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A 3/4 view from the rear. I think it's starting to shape up nicely.

NOTE: As mentioned I'm only trying to rough shape this panel so I can visualize and tweak the profile (from the side) and the flow of the roof into the sail panel and rear window.

The front portion of the roof isn't even attached and it's just setting on the roof rails.

I failed to mention the reason I needed to make new roof sides. This was due to removing the original drip rails for a cleaner look. Once I did that (plus changing how the roof sets on the roof rails in relation to it's side profile) I needed a new edge built to replace the area / section cut away with the drip rails.

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One last view from the rear and slightly looking down.

I'm still laying in the weeds trying to figure out my plan for the rear window opening. We are trying to decide how we want the glass to install, and our two options (now rubber mounted like original) will require the edge and pinchweld area to be changed.
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  #88  
Old 07-07-2018, 08:16 AM
Cgarside Cgarside is offline
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Really looking good!
Deeply impressed with your approach to the detail stuff while also nailing the overall look of the car.
Chris
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  #89  
Old 07-08-2018, 04:12 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Getting a very nice flow there Dane.
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  #90  
Old 07-08-2018, 08:32 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Looks like the way the factory should have made it!

Nice flow, thanks for sharing.

Steve
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