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Old 01-04-2019, 11:22 PM
berntd berntd is offline
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Default U channel for rubber seal make/repair on mercedes SL?

Hello all,

Please help me with some ideas on how to repair/fabricate the rusted out U-channel as shown.

It holds a rubber seal to stop water ingress into the soft top compartment.

Front lip and bottom of the U are cactus ( L) but the rear is mostly intact.

The shape is narrow and deep and angled near the car door and uniform for the rest.

Construction is as per the sketches.
Both layers at the bottom are cactus.

All ideas and directions are greatly appreciated.

(Edit: I don't know why pics are not shuwing as thumbnails-sorry)


Best regards
Bernt

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Bernt

Last edited by berntd; 01-04-2019 at 11:26 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2019, 11:39 PM
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neilb neilb is offline
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if it was me bernt, i would start with a piece bent as an angle, shape to the contour of what you need, an then using a tool to tip the return flange back up. then follow with a hammer and dolly
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Old 01-04-2019, 11:48 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Bernt
Do the Chanel after welding a new piece all along the existing panels, the weld must be about 8 mm away from the existing first edge turn down .You would need to take patterns and profiles first,then cut and weld each piece to the length that you are capable and comfortable to handle.Once the new piece is welded stretch the weld ,then turn the first vertical edge ,shrink and stretch as necessary,once that is done ,then turn the second (horizontal) edge back up, once that is done ,use a block of steel about 2 inches long, but the same width of the Chanel and turn the rest back up

just have a look at my post here... title ''torana sunroof'' where I did the Chanel on a roof panel on the existing roof panel
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:00 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilb View Post
if it was me bernt, i would start with a piece bent as an angle, shape to the contour of what you need, an then using a tool to tip the return flange back up. then follow with a hammer and dolly
Neil that is one idea BUT doing that way the Chanel would have to be at least 1 inch wide from the first edge to the weld ,which would mean that the weld is a long way in to the panel, and that can coarse unnecessary heat distortion .So by doing it the way I suggested (weld been about 8 mm from vertical edge) once welded and planished most of the distortion will pull away when the first vertical edge is turned by a pair of vise clips or pliers and then shrunk to suit ,then of course turn the other edge up
Peter
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:10 AM
berntd berntd is offline
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Hi Peter, a reasonable approach but because of the layer underneath (see sketch), I don't think I could turn the 1st edge down in situ.

Unless I am misunderstanding something?

Regards Bernt
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:27 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berntd View Post
Hi Peter, a reasonable approach but because of the layer underneath (see sketch), I don't think I could turn the 1st edge down in situ.

Unless I am misunderstanding something?

Regards Bernt
I see what you mean
the only other way then (which would make this a BIGGGGGGG job) would be to find a place where you have access for a dolly in order to planish the weld out, then make a new panel all around then weld it in .Then spot weld the inner to the channel
Peter
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Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 01-05-2019 at 01:29 AM.
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2019, 08:54 AM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
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To Peter, since you've done this type repair before.


I assume that the lip rusted out because of water pooling and wicking back up under the rubber seal.


Is it considered a reasonable "sacrifice" to allow this situation to persist or would you consider drain holes (including tubes if draining "inside") or other means of avoiding water pooling?
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:48 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Bourget View Post
To Peter, since you've done this type repair before.


I assume that the lip rusted out because of water pooling and wicking back up under the rubber seal.


Is it considered a reasonable "sacrifice" to allow this situation to persist or would you consider drain holes (including tubes if draining "inside") or other means of avoiding water pooling?

Marc I would say that the seal was rotten for a long time, If the rubber seal was new, and the channel was clean and painted sooner, I think that the rust would have not come up
Peter
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM
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Old 01-05-2019, 03:07 PM
berntd berntd is offline
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And if the seal were sealed with a bit of silicone by factory, so water cannot get down into the channel, then it would also have been ok.

Too late however.
Too late also for all the other major rust damage in this car.

I now only have this channel and the boot floor and rear end left to do. "Only"

Oh, and the soft top cover lid.
and... :-(
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Last edited by berntd; 01-05-2019 at 03:13 PM.
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  #10  
Old 01-05-2019, 04:32 PM
berntd berntd is offline
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How about I make an L shape.

Then weld that to the remaining vertical.say ~5mm down with the long leg forming the channel bottom.

Clean up the weld and turn up the outer channel edge.

What do you think?

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Last edited by berntd; 01-05-2019 at 06:16 PM.
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