#1
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shaping inner fender patch
Hey guys I purchased a set of shrinker stretchers the other day to aid in my patch panel fab.
The problem is I do not know what I am doing. I am trying to make a patch panel for the lower rear quarter panel inner panel for my 63 Galaxie. The patch panel is about 19 inches long and 2 inches wide with a 1/2 inch 90 deg bend the length of the panel. The problem I am having is after I use the brake to put in the bend I try shaping it a little. The first half goes great do to just a slight bend but the other half is giving me fits. The foward section is S shaped with the with the top of the S turned 90 deg. I tried shrinking and stretching to get the shape I need but the narrow section of the patch moved easily with the shrinker stretcher but the 2 inch section did not do much moving, Here is a pic that may help Thanks Rodney |
#2
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Welcme Rodney!
you are probably putting the material all the way into the jaws on the S/S Only put it in to the lift spring . About 1/2 way in. That should fix your problem.BTW it happened to most of us when we first got our S/S Good Luck
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Rick Scott The second mouse gets the cheese! |
#3
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Rodney, welcome to out group of metalshapers. Thanks for joining us. Please introduce yourself and let us know where you are located.
I assume that the shrinker and stretcher you bought is a Lancaster style, is this correct. These are small units with about a 1" throat depth. What other metal shaping hand tools do you have to work with?
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#4
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http://www.youtube.com/lazzemetalsha.../8/GvaFtmAzxNk - Lazze shows you the basics of the Lancasters
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http://www.shawnmarsh.com - My metalshaping portfolio as I get started in the world of metal. |
#5
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Rodney, what guage steel are you using, and what is the original? That piece looks pretty thick. These reinforcing pieces are typically thicker than the 19 ga material used in the quarter panel. I use 16 ga, and that is beyond the limits of a Lancaster shrinker for any practical purposes. Just guessing, you might be better off cutting out a blank that has the shape of the 2" side, with enough lip on it to tip, and then shrink/stretch the shape you need into the 1" edge. That would be my approach.
Tuck
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Being Retired just means going to bed at night Re-Tired |
#6
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This is quick and dirty but hopefully it will help you. Cut a piece of 19 gage 2-1/2" wide. Bent it in the brake to form a 1/2" flange. Used the shrinker and stretcher to shrink and stretch to get a shape similar to what you posted.
When you shrink or stretch you need to do it in a triangular shape. The area near the edge will require more shrink or stretch that at the flange. See the triangle on the sample below. Work the 2" section first to get the shape that you want. The shorter flange area will move where it wants to. Don't worry about that until you get the shape in the larger section. Once you have the shape you want then you can move to the 1/2" flange and shrink of stretch as necessary to make the panel fit. You may have to do some additional work on the 2" section to make if fit properly but it should be minor. I didn't try to smooth the panel but that can be done quickly with a hammer and dolly. Took longer to take the pictures and post it than to make the panel.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#7
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Tuck is correct, if it is 16 gage you won't be very successful with the lancaster style dies.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#8
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Thanks
Thanks to everyone espicially Joe for his great totorial.
My name is Rodney Robbins and I am living in the Fort Myers Florida area. I have a couple of old fords that I am trying to restore but my budget will not allow me to purchase all of the pre made patch panels I need. I used to be a bodyman about a hundred years ago but it was down and dirty stuff to get one car out and the next one in. Now i am trying to learn the correct way to restore the old cars so they will last another 5o years. My shrinker stretcher is the lancaster type. I have accuried a few tools to help me with the sheet metal work. 36" brake electric shears cutoff tools lincoln 180 mig welder 60 ton press band saw 80 gal compressor sandblaster nibbler flanger white plastic mallet shotbag and the normal body shop tools. I know this should be simple but maybe I am expecting the panel to turn out perfect and when you are learning that goal is tough. Joe that triangle you mentioned do you work the base of the triangle first and decreas the number of shrinks as you move in toward the top of the triangle? |
#9
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Rodney, yes I work the edge first one pass, then moved up the panel a little. Repeat until you get the shape. The panel is 2" wide and you can only go in 1" with the lancasters. The flange side will distort a lot as you shrink the edge. What you wind up with it a bulge or bubble at the back of the panel. This is a non defined tuck that needs to be shrunk with a hammer and dolly. Straighten the flange out best you can first and then work from the center of the bulge out to the edge of the bulge and hammer the metal into itself. You will have to play with how hard to hit it but remember you are not trying to kill it.
It is much easier to show you how to do it than try to explain how to do it.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#10
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Welcome to allmetalshaping. If you have to shrink thicker steel it could help to heat shrink it. Do you have gas welding equipment?
David
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Metalshaping DVD. www.metalshapingzone.com Metalshaping with hand tools on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGElSHzm0q8 All things are possible. |
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