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  #11  
Old 01-28-2010, 09:30 AM
V8Mongrel V8Mongrel is offline
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Originally Posted by jhnarial View Post
Like this?

Attachment 2471
Yes sir. That would be perfect.
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2010, 10:13 AM
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jhnarial jhnarial is offline
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I hate to admit it but it did use some tools. I could have done with out but I did this for myself and not for a thread.

I like to preach, learn how to shape metal by hand first and then worry about the tools after you get a understanding on how the metal reacts.

That advice was given to me and it really helped.

The tools I used were

English Wheel, simple roll tool, Simple tipping tool, and my hammer with thumbnail dies and doming dies.


I made it in two pieces. I had a card board buck to follow. So I just shaped it until it fit the buck. I didn't take a picture of the card board buck but I took a paper pattern off of that to get the shape of my blank. Then I drew on some reference lines.

test run 6 335.jpg

I found the closest anvil I could to match the radius.

test run 6 336.jpg

test run 6 337.jpg

Then I ran it through the simple roll tool.

test run 6 338.jpg

Five minutes later here is what I had.

test run 6 341.jpg

This would be good enough but it did not match the card board buck that me and my dad made. It needed some shrinking on the front and the back. Actually I could have gotten away with out shrinking the back because it got cut off when the tail section butted up to it. It wasn't hard to shrink so I just made it fit the buck.

test run 6 342.jpg

After some shrinking and some tweaking I had it fitting the buck.

test run 6 347.jpg

I made the tail section the same way.


tp 118.jpg

tp 119.jpg

tp 122.jpg

To tip the edge I used this tool.

20080826_6.JPG

I just tipped it a little at a time until I had what I wanted. I gave this tool to my Dad last weekend. I think if I made one out of aluminum it would cut down on the galling.

I left it for him to weld it up. I am taking off a couple of days in a few weeks to help him make a floor pan for the car.
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Last edited by jhnarial; 01-28-2010 at 10:22 AM.
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  #13  
Old 01-28-2010, 10:24 AM
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jhunter jhunter is offline
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Default Just my 2 cents:

I have both "set A" and "set B". I have had set A for 7 or 8 years with no problems. I have used the hell out them completly rebuilding a rusted out Bronco body and they still perform just fine. I'm not too fond of the slapper. I made a slapper from some flat bar stock that I like much better.

Admittedly I have only had set B for about a month. I primarily bought it for the comma dolly but I was pleasantly surprised to find the other dollies to be different from the ones I already had too.

I'm no metal shaper (yet) by any stretch (Like the pun) but I totally agree with Tim that one of these sets will be more than adequate for getting your toes wet.

Also, there are a couple of stakes, one football shaped and one teardrop shaped that can be held in a vice, that can be had on ebay or from HF for cheap. A sand bag and a mallet and you're ready to go.
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  #14  
Old 01-28-2010, 10:49 AM
V8Mongrel V8Mongrel is offline
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Jamey, thanks for the input.

Johnny, that is great work. Thanks for taking the time to show all that. Could you post a link to that rolling tool or tell me of a "no tool" alternative method? Also, I noticed that you used an English wheel. Is there a way to get around having one? They are quite an investment.

This place is great!
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  #15  
Old 01-28-2010, 10:53 AM
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Most people use a go-cart slick. This is just what I use.

j7.jpg

You can just bend the metal around a pole or your knee.
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  #16  
Old 01-28-2010, 11:06 AM
V8Mongrel V8Mongrel is offline
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Quote:
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Most people use a go-cart slick. This is just what I use.

Attachment 2483

You can just bend the metal around a pole or your knee.
That is clever. So, to make sure I have this straight:
  1. I pirate a couple of wheels off an old pair of rollerblades,
  2. mount them on basic bracket,
  3. put the sheet metal over a curved anvil,
  4. and with my handy new low-buck roller tool, roll over the metal to form the curve?
That I can do.
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  #17  
Old 01-28-2010, 11:12 AM
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That is correct.

If you go to Toys-R-Us you can buy replacment wheels. I found these on a clearence rack for five bucks.
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  #18  
Old 01-28-2010, 11:58 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Mongrel View Post
...I noticed a couple people mention "David Gardiners DVD". I assume this is the one? (Sorry if that is commercial linking for a non-paying, non-sponsor. I figured since it was mentioned by name it would be OK to put here.) I have watched the free clips on YouTube and was impressed. I will also check out the Metal Shaping 101 video.....
Yes that is the link to the DVD. Here is his add here and a bunch of folks comments on it.

http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=172

No need to apologise. We don't have restrictions on commercial posts or prices like MetalMeet does unless someone gets stupid about it.

I'd recommend Davids DVD over my 101 DVD.

David was a frequent poster here until recently. He apparently got his feelings hurt because some folks questioned his opinions. Hopefully he will be back. Regardless his DVD is a class act and very informative.
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  #19  
Old 01-30-2010, 09:15 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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I will take a shot at this but other people surely will have their own favorites. Starting from the upper left hand corner and proceeding clockwise you have a heel dolly, a general purpose dolly (A.K.A. a railroad or track dolly) and the third dolly is made by Streamline but sold by Sears for the last thousand years but I don’t recall the name. Dollies #2 and #3 can be clamped in a vice to make temporary stake type tool to hammer over. A wood slapper with a removable leather cover and a steel slapper complete the upper row. In the lower row we have a raising or doming hammer, left & right hand aviation snips and a glass pliers for bending flanges. Then a Proto #1426 body hammer, a big dead blow hammer for caulking and finally a cross peen body hammer (A.K.A. a chisel back hammer). A leather beater bag that fits nicely on top of a stump gives you 2 different surfaces to beat / shape on.
>!1begin2.JPG

!1begin3.JPG >


Not shown in photos but equally as important is a good vice with slip on soft brass or lead jaws for grabbing projects and those previously mentioned dollies without marking them. An adjustable curve vixen file to highlight high & low spots, not to actually file metal. Also flexible steel rules, measuring tapes and scribes. In the welding department at least welding torches are also necessary and a source of compressed air would be nice but not absolutely necessary. I’m sure I’ve forgotten a few things but you could just about make any shape with these tools given a lot of time & practice. Making parts fast enough to make a living from it requires a bunch more equipment and of course experience. Everyone has to pay their dues, experience just doesn’t come without it. Good luck with purchasing your tools and with your metal shaping efforts . ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #20  
Old 01-31-2010, 11:41 AM
V8Mongrel V8Mongrel is offline
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Wow, thanks John. Good stuff. This forum continues to impress.

One thing I have noticed is that there is a lot of wood used in metal working. My father-in-law was an apprentice to a carpenter before Uncle Sam decided to send him to the jungles of Southeast Asia, so I have someone who can help me in many regards, but I still have one question. What kind of wood are you guys using for that slapper tool?

I am going to guess it isn't pine, which is a shame. I am less than hour from Pinehurst (of golf course fame) so finding pine is super easy.
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