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  #101  
Old 08-09-2018, 09:55 AM
sumtu sumtu is offline
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How did you stretch the welds back up on the front header section to be so nice.
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  #102  
Old 08-09-2018, 03:19 PM
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Thanks for all the compliments, I知 glad to hear everyone is thinking it痴 headed on the right track!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
Dude, has anyone told you that you are a master of understatement. That is as nice as anything I've ever seen. Period.
That honestly made me laugh out loud!ha. In all honesty I知 always overly critical of my work and always strive for it to be done better, faster and easier. Also the pictures have a hard time showing the remaining imperfections that the hand and eyes can feel / see in person. I知 happy with it for now, but will certainly go back and refine the remaining metalwork before any bodywork and priming starts (way down the road!)

Sumtu,

Luckily the header structure is strong and basically helped hold the edge shape very nicely. Very minimally I was able to slide a thin body spoon back and planish against it in a few spots. Also being in the collision industry I have a dent puller (sort of like a stud gun, but not really) that I was able to pull up a few low spots and finished with the shrinking disc.
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  #103  
Old 08-09-2018, 06:17 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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From small dumpy and boring to graceful and elegant - such genius!
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  #104  
Old 08-09-2018, 09:13 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Outstanding
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  #105  
Old 08-10-2018, 08:43 AM
sumtu sumtu is offline
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Thank you just trying to learn.
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  #106  
Old 08-11-2018, 11:46 AM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Dane,

You are a true artist! This has transformed the car so much, it is truly magnificent.
One question, the comment that you will finish metal working or refine the work before primer. Whats left to do, the pics' look like it is terrifically finished ready for paint.
Just a newbie trying to learn from a fantastic metal worker with really good postings too.

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Chris
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  #107  
Old 08-12-2018, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr fixit View Post
Dane,

You are a true artist! This has transformed the car so much, it is truly magnificent.
One question, the comment that you will finish metal working or refine the work before primer. Whats left to do, the pics' look like it is terrifically finished ready for paint.
Just a newbie trying to learn from a fantastic metal worker with really good postings too.

TX
Mr fixit
Chris
Thank you very much.

As I mentioned earlier, the pictures hide some of the remaining imperfections and wobbles, etc. that I知 not 100% satisfied with. However, for now my biggest concern is to get the areas that I値l have no or limited access to finished as best I can and get the rest pretty darn good. Since I知 changing things so drastically I like to move around and try to get the major modifications 途oughed in so I know things are going to work visually, etc.

So down the road when I pretty much have all the metalwork / modifications wrapped up I値l go panel by panel and clean them up and finalize them one more time to get them the best I can. Sometimes you can work on one area so much you don稚 make any more improvements or progress....step away from it for a while and come back later with a fresh mind and things work out better usually rather than just 田hasing your tail around trying to get a certain wobble or low spot out for example.
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  #108  
Old 08-24-2018, 08:12 PM
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Since I last posted I've been working on shaping and fitting the passenger rear corner of the roof. After welding that in (as well as a small section in the rear center) I spent a fair amount of time getting the contour and profile of the roof correct and dialing it in for symmetry side to side.

Since I used the front half of the original skin as well as the center (between each rear corner) I actually had to do a fair amount of stretching and reshaping with my air planishing hammer in order for the roof to take on more of the correct shape that I wanted.

I'm not finished with the roof skin as I still have a fair amount of refining and fine tuning to get it smooth and straight....but it's at a point where I can at least take a break from it and move onto something else for a while (it's always good to sometimes clear your head and go back to stuff later with a fresh mind)

I decided the next area I wanted to tackle was reshaping the rear wheel openings to match the concept drawing I did at the start of the project.

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Passenger rear corner welded into position. Here I've also had to go back and do a lot of stretching and reshaping of the roofskin basically the entire back half.

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Shaped up a piece to fill in the missing center portion at the rear above the back glass.

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Close enough for now (I just tacked in that center piece) but I wanted to move onto something different for a while...I've spent too much time on this roof.

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I really am happy with the huge visual difference this roof project made for the car!

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Here I made a pile of reshaped rear wheel openings out of cardboard. With a bunch of measurements from my original concept drawing and these mockups I was able to eventually get the look / shape I was after.

To make sure I was correct, I'd keep taking pictures directly from the side and then I'd overlay them (partially transparent) in Photoshop over the concept rendering to see how the wheel opening matched.

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The only way I know how to fabricate this new wheel opening is to break it down into manageable pieces that I'm able to shape and fit. It'll be more welding in the long run, but I'm not anywhere near capable to shape the quarter, flare and wheel lip in one piece. This method works for me.

Here I've got the new edge of the wheel lip shaped to match the cardboard profile I ended up with.

Note: At this point I came to the realization that the tire was just a bit too far back in the wheel opening. Obviously at this point the wheelbase is set, so I'll slide the opening back (it ended up being 1" that I moved it)

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Take a step back to see the entire side of the car. This new wheel opening goes much nicer with the front one than the original rear did.

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Here I formed a simple section that would fill in the void left by sliding the wheel opening back the 1" that I needed.

Note: I'm also saving the curve at the start of the "upsweep" for the flare (I can use it up to where I have the diagonal marker line drawn) The least amount of fabrication that I have to do from scratch is good to me (try to salvage some time I lost on the roof project taking longer than I planned)

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With that I'm much happier with the placement / location of the tire in the opening now.

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I shaped up a small panel for the lower corner at the rear of the wheel opening.

I've also started marking out the rear corner of the flare. Much like I did on the front.....I'm sliding this little area forward to reuse it.

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Here I slid that rear section forward (about 2.5") and shaped up a section to fill the void left by moving it forward. Again, I wasn't able to use a big section of that flare upsweep....but It'll still save me time in the long run.

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Take another step back to see how it's looking!

The black marker line is where I need to cut the original opening and "flare" out to get back to the flat section of the quarter panel.

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A close up side view of the "flare" and wheel opening lip. From here on out I'll have to fabricate the rest from scratch.
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  #109  
Old 08-24-2018, 11:28 PM
HappyGoLucky HappyGoLucky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pplace View Post
Since I last posted I've been working on shaping and fitting the passenger rear corner of the roof. After welding that in (as well as a small section in the rear center) I spent a fair amount of time getting the contour and profile of the roof correct and dialing it in for symmetry side to side.

Since I used the front half of the original skin as well as the center (between each rear corner) I actually had to do a fair amount of stretching and reshaping with my air planishing hammer in order for the roof to take on more of the correct shape that I wanted.

I'm not finished with the roof skin as I still have a fair amount of refining and fine tuning to get it smooth and straight....but it's at a point where I can at least take a break from it and move onto something else for a while (it's always good to sometimes clear your head and go back to stuff later with a fresh mind)

I decided the next area I wanted to tackle was reshaping the rear wheel openings to match the concept drawing I did at the start of the project.

Attachment 48433

Passenger rear corner welded into position. Here I've also had to go back and do a lot of stretching and reshaping of the roofskin basically the entire back half.

Attachment 48434

Shaped up a piece to fill in the missing center portion at the rear above the back glass.

Attachment 48435

Close enough for now (I just tacked in that center piece) but I wanted to move onto something different for a while...I've spent too much time on this roof.

Attachment 48436

I really am happy with the huge visual difference this roof project made for the car!

Attachment 48437

Here I made a pile of reshaped rear wheel openings out of cardboard. With a bunch of measurements from my original concept drawing and these mockups I was able to eventually get the look / shape I was after.

To make sure I was correct, I'd keep taking pictures directly from the side and then I'd overlay them (partially transparent) in Photoshop over the concept rendering to see how the wheel opening matched.

Attachment 48438

The only way I know how to fabricate this new wheel opening is to break it down into manageable pieces that I'm able to shape and fit. It'll be more welding in the long run, but I'm not anywhere near capable to shape the quarter, flare and wheel lip in one piece. This method works for me.

Here I've got the new edge of the wheel lip shaped to match the cardboard profile I ended up with.

Note: At this point I came to the realization that the tire was just a bit too far back in the wheel opening. Obviously at this point the wheelbase is set, so I'll slide the opening back (it ended up being 1" that I moved it)

Attachment 48439

Take a step back to see the entire side of the car. This new wheel opening goes much nicer with the front one than the original rear did.

Attachment 48440

Here I formed a simple section that would fill in the void left by sliding the wheel opening back the 1" that I needed.

Note: I'm also saving the curve at the start of the "upsweep" for the flare (I can use it up to where I have the diagonal marker line drawn) The least amount of fabrication that I have to do from scratch is good to me (try to salvage some time I lost on the roof project taking longer than I planned)

Attachment 48441

With that I'm much happier with the placement / location of the tire in the opening now.

Attachment 48442

I shaped up a small panel for the lower corner at the rear of the wheel opening.

I've also started marking out the rear corner of the flare. Much like I did on the front.....I'm sliding this little area forward to reuse it.

Attachment 48443

Here I slid that rear section forward (about 2.5") and shaped up a section to fill the void left by moving it forward. Again, I wasn't able to use a big section of that flare upsweep....but It'll still save me time in the long run.

Attachment 48444

Take another step back to see how it's looking!

The black marker line is where I need to cut the original opening and "flare" out to get back to the flat section of the quarter panel.

Attachment 48445

A close up side view of the "flare" and wheel opening lip. From here on out I'll have to fabricate the rest from scratch.

That profile looks really Great... if you don't have a pullmax, or similar machine handy.... I would just roll some metal over a pipe similar to the radius you need... then use a linear stretch pattern on the top part shown in Red lines... ( leave about 1.5" of flat area to linear stretch) to get your compound curve... It will take more stretching on the corner areas... ( you might even make those sections first and get them tacked to your other sections you reused from the original metal ) Cleco in your new other main section (green area in photo below ) where it meets the mid quarter area... over lap that with your new compound linear stretched wheel opening area for an easy scribe, trim and then finish weld.

You Could use a planishing hammer for the linear stretch or even the english wheel running in the linear pattern.



Again nice job... your metal work is really great.
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  #110  
Old 08-25-2018, 07:57 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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The subtle transformations you are making are stunning in their totality. Folks are going to see it and think "I don't recall those Ramblers looking like that..."


How are you going to be able to get the rear wheel/tire off? It looks like a big wide tire. Is the suspension going to lift enough for it to clear the brake rotor and stuff?
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