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  #81  
Old 09-12-2009, 01:56 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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Kerry, you dont have to work on the inside of the panel, mark the line on the outside and work to that. A tool like the one you show is called a tipping tool over here but once you realise how much easier it is to do it without tipping the metal first you will never use one again.
I understand about the glasses I have to wear glasses for close up work now and many of my students wear them.
For steel if I can I will indent for a wheelarch on a jenny but for ally I never do.
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  #82  
Old 09-12-2009, 05:08 AM
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Marty Comstock Marty Comstock is offline
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Different strokes for different folks, I tip everything, even before I put it in my finger brake to help eliminate those pesky finger marks.

sorry to assist in hijacking the thread.

Kerry, I would have used my lil portable vice grip tipping wheel on that fender. I made it after our meet and tipping Gators sunroof by hand.

Marty
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  #83  
Old 09-17-2009, 02:31 PM
Kerry Pinkerton's Avatar
Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty Comstock View Post
... I would have used my lil portable vice grip tipping wheel on that fender. I made it after our meet and tipping Gators sunroof by hand.
I'd like to see a photo of that Marty.

PROGRESS.

I'm truly blessed with some great metal shaping friends. This past week Joe Hartson has been up helping me with the roadster. Grant Leeser came in last Thursday night and left Sunday morning. Joe got in mid afternoon Friday. Bennett Chapman wanted to come but he's in the middle of a huge fabrication job and couldn't get away.

Of course in the middle of all this, we found a leak in the water line coming into the house so I spent all Sunday afternoon playing in the mud....never fails.

Grant started working on some of the rest of the inner fender panels.

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When Joe got in he started metal finishing and tuning some of the fenders.

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Of course, plenty of BS was spread around as it is any time two or more metalshapers get together.

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Joe had the left front fender in pretty good shape by Saturday afternoon. But when we put it on the car, we noticed a serious problem. What I thought was just arrangement issues turned out to be some serious shape issues that were ultimately resolved by reshaping part of the fender.

I've learned a lot recently:

1- This is a seriously complicated shape
2- I'm in over my head...big time...resulting in learning as I go either the first time, the first repair, or the second repair....haven't had to do three...yet.
3- It would have been VASTLY better to have taken the time up front and built a wooden buck. At the very least, I should have built a reverse buck for each fender based on the first side. Covells fender building DVD makes that look fairly easy and it certainly would have saved me time and aggrivation.
4- Shape hard...arrangement is easy right? True EXCEPT when the shape involves multiple reverse curves. In that situation (like all my fenders) the shape LOCKS the arrangement and it is exceedingly difficult to manipulate the arrangement. EXCEEDINGLY!

Here Joe is tuning the repaired fender.

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My long suffering wife came out to inspect the progress.

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The wheel arch is tipped and the bottom flange is tipped. I added some metal via weld build up to the door gap and need to tune that a bit but it's a simple process that just takes time. I'll need to finish the inner fender for that fender also.

The other major project was installing the decklid and fitting the rear fenders and decklid openings.

While Joe and Grant were doing their things, I build the frame structure for the trunk. The frame was extended back and down and 1x1 cross members were added to support the trunk floor and sides.

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From the LEVEL trunk floor rails, I tacked on some up uprights and clamped some angles with angle legs. This allowed the decklid to be positioned EXACTLY where we wanted it and ensured it was level. This approach worked very well.

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Then it was time to attach the hinges. I had purchased these hinges from SpeedWay and of course they didn't fit the application so metal was added here, arms cut there, etc. The hinge base was welded to the cross bar. The mounting plates have holes and inside the decklid frame is a tapped plate so the frame is sandwiched firmly by the tightened bolts. The decklid can be shifted around for alignment once the bolts are backed off.

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SHE WORKS!!! Actually the hinges weight considerably more than the decklid proper

A major ah ha moment came when the decklid was pushed all the way vertical and it became obvious the decklid would actually touch the panel behind it. (What is the name for that panel? It's not the cowl) I did not put a curve in the back of the decklid as I should have. There are two choices. I can put stops in the hinges so it will not raise far enough to touch the panel...about where it is in this photo. Or I can modify the decklid and put an arch in it. Not sure which way I will go.

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Fits well though. Still have a LITTLE tweeking to do on the right rear opening but very little.


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The left rear was a bit of a challenge also. The shape was right but the arrangement was off. Apparently my buck was not that accurate. However Joe and I were able to get it in position and tipped the decklid opening then shaped the flange until it fits the decklid.

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Still a lot of work to be done on the left rear. It's not really mounted that solidly (notice the high tech wooden spacers), and there is significant bumping and metal finishing to be done. The wheel opening flange was marked but we realized the fender had moved and I'll need to remark it. Again, building on a hard buck would sure have made this simplier and saved much time in the long run....next time!

Came to some realizations however. My goal for Oblong was to have the car drivable and licensed but that just isn't going to happen. Simply too much to do and too little time.
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  #84  
Old 09-17-2009, 02:57 PM
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Chris Bspoke Chris Bspoke is offline
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WOW just a little bit done in the last few days then , what can we say when you get going kerry there must be a wind following you cause you seem to get some speed up . Keep the good work going you are an inspiration .
All the best
Cheers Chris C
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  #85  
Old 09-17-2009, 04:29 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Bspoke View Post
WOW just a little bit done in the last few days then , what can we say when you get going kerry there must be a wind following you cause you seem to get some speed up . ...
Thanks Chris. It's really motivating for me to have others around. REALLY keeps my going. If I had been alone for the last week, I'd have started around 9. Stopped at 5. Come in a few times every day to check the internet. Probably taken a few naps. You get the idea.

With Joe and Grant here, we started about 8, had a quick lunch and supper, stopped about 8 or 9. Add the additional manpower and things seem to get done.
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  #86  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:25 PM
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I was wodering what Joe's been up to.go get him Joe.

Kerry the rear of the car is just sexy.I love the trunk lid.
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  #87  
Old 09-17-2009, 11:11 PM
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McClary McClary is offline
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looking GOOD!!

on what you said/asked here...
Quote:
A major ah ha moment came when the decklid was pushed all the way vertical and it became obvious the decklid would actually touch the panel behind it. (What is the name for that panel? It's not the cowl) I did not put a curve in the back of the decklid as I should have. There are two choices. I can put stops in the hinges so it will not raise far enough to touch the panel...about where it is in this photo. Or I can modify the decklid and put an arch in it. Not sure which way I will go.
instead of building stops or whatnot.. why not just put trunk struts on it, so it will hold the trunk up while open , plus if measured and placed right it will be a type of stopper too...
just an idea...

keep up the good work!! hopefully if you have another metal meet, i can make it up there!
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  #88  
Old 09-18-2009, 12:17 AM
Gary Tisdel Gary Tisdel is offline
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hi kerry,

on the hinges, i made a set of hinges a few years ago and learned that changing the shape of the arms can lift the decklid as needed.

easy fix.

gary
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  #89  
Old 09-18-2009, 12:54 AM
Kerry Pinkerton's Avatar
Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gary tisdel View Post
hi kerry,

on the hinges, i made a set of hinges a few years ago and learned that changing the shape of the arms can lift the decklid as needed.

easy fix.

gary
Tell me more Gary.
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  #90  
Old 09-18-2009, 02:50 AM
TheRodDoc TheRodDoc is offline
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The only part that makes a difference is where the pivot of the hinge is at.

The shape of the piece between that pivot and the place where the plate bolts to the lid makes no difference at all other then to clear everything that is in it's way.

for the lid to clear at the joint of the body and lid the pin pivot must be as close to the body skin underside as possable. The smallest pin you can and still be strong enough. This is the most important part.

next is how far ahead of the joint you put the pin pivot. the farther away the pin is from the joint, Ahead of the trunk opening that is, The higher the lid edge will be away from the body when open. That is if the pin can be moved ahead without moving it down because of the skin shape.

Also with a heavily curved lid putting the hinges to far out or apart will make a difference too.
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