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  #1  
Old 02-20-2018, 10:13 AM
Mucci Mucci is offline
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Default Planishing Hammer and Rivet Hammer same tool?

I'm looking to pick up a planishing hammer. I already have a few rivet hammers from a previous project. I was wondering if I could just make a stand for one of the rivet hammers I have and use it as a planishing hammer. Are they different tools?
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Old 02-21-2018, 03:20 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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When you mention 'planishing hammer', are you referring to a commercially produced unit like Chicago Pneumatic, or a unit easily available today (usually of eastern origin) which commonly uses an air chisel motor?

If you're referring to the latter, then a rivet setting air hammer is preferable over an air chisel motor as the blows per minute and power of hit are controlled on the trigger - unlike the pneumatic chisel which can be too aggressive.

Similarly, a CP type old-school planisher can also vary its BPM and power of hit, and is clearly the machine of choice should you be so fortunate as to acquire one.
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Old 02-21-2018, 01:01 PM
Mucci Mucci is offline
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After looking at photos, yes, I'm likely talking about the latter with the air chisel. I hadn't realized they were triggerless. The rivet hammers I have do have a trigger and are quite nice. I guess I'd have to find a way of actuating the trigger with a foot pedal.
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:02 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Hi,
I started shaping metal with an Ingersoll AVC 14 rivet gun in 1981.
Because of that success I bought a large assortment of CP, IR, Cleco, Dallet, and etc rivet guns from an air tool rebuilder that was quitting the business.

I got all of the guns working and began to use them regularly.
I shaped up an 18ga steel rear fender for an early Mercedes in much less time than flogging it out by hand. That was 1987.

Here is what I have learned since 1987:
http://www.tinmantech.com/products/f...power-hammers/

PS:
AKA "punishing hammers" they hit a LOT harder than any "planisher."
...But they also "planish" when set to hit lightly.
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Old 02-22-2018, 01:08 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mucci View Post
After looking at photos, yes, I'm likely talking about the latter with the air chisel. I hadn't realized they were triggerless. The rivet hammers I have do have a trigger and are quite nice. I guess I'd have to find a way of actuating the trigger with a foot pedal.
Quite right, Dave. The rivet gun is workable by means of a lever or cam actuating the trigger linked via a foot control so you can 'feather' the intensity of the action.

Similarly, if you have a range of rivet guns, say from 3X - 5X, you can vary the power for planishing or stretching; depending on your needs.

Good luck!
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:38 PM
Mucci Mucci is offline
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Hey folks, so I'm just getting back into this project as I now NEED a planishing hammer to finish up some fenders I'm making.

These are the guns I have to choose from:

Sioux Tools 270A - 3X, 2000 bpm, 8 cfm @ 90psi
ATI ATC 3X - 2160 bpm, ? cfm
Browntool T-3X - 2100 bpm, 9 cfm @ 90psi

They all accept the same .401 head and recoil springs it looks like.

My concern is the air consumption. My compressor is rated at 6.2 cfm @ 90psi. Considering I will be planishing and not riveting would the air consumption be less? It looks like the consumption on the harbor freight planishing hammer is only 4.0 cfm @ 90psi, which I assume is hitting a lot lighter.

Also, anyone know a good place to get upper and lower dies for not too much money? Trying to keep this build cheap.
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Last edited by Mucci; 08-21-2018 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 08-21-2018, 02:24 PM
HappyGoLucky HappyGoLucky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mucci View Post
Hey folks, so I'm just getting back into this project as I now NEED a planishing hammer to finish up some fenders I'm making.

These are the guns I have to choose from:

Sioux Tools 270A - 3X, 2000 bpm, 8 cfm @ 90psi
ATI ATC 3X - 2160 bpm, ? cfm
Browntool T-3X - 2100 bpm, 9 cfm @ 90psi

They all accept the same .401 head and recoil springs it looks like.

My concern is the air consumption. My compressor is rated at 6.2 cfm @ 90psi. Considering I will be planishing and not riveting would the air consumption be less? It looks like the consumption on the harbor freight planishing hammer is only 4.0 cfm @ 90psi, which I assume is hitting a lot lighter.

Also, anyone know a good place to get upper and lower dies for not too much money? Trying to keep this build cheap.
I would go with a quality needle descaler... they usually have an upper die that is hardened and flat. It can either be dressed up/ radiused, lapped, etc.. or you can weld a bigger flat round to it.
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  #8  
Old 08-21-2018, 08:10 PM
dwood dwood is offline
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Default Here's one way . . . .

Hi Dave,

Here's a link to the one I made using a rivet gun.

It works great!

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12558
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Old 08-21-2018, 09:41 PM
sru_tx sru_tx is offline
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Don,
Coincidentally I was looking at your build pics yesterday and today. I am very impressed with the dual action that you created with the pedal via the slider (die contact and trigger control).

I think I understand how the mechanism works. Is the rivet gun able to slide within the sliding carrier? As I interpret the photos, once the slider moves down far enough for the dies to make contact, the rivet gun will slide within the carrier against the top spring. Any additional pressure will compress the top spring against the top lever and start depressing the rivet gun's trigger.

Is that correct?

thanks
steve
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  #10  
Old 08-22-2018, 08:57 AM
dwood dwood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sru_tx View Post
I think I understand how the mechanism works. Is the rivet gun able to slide within the sliding carrier?steve
Hi Steve,

The rivet gun is clamped rigidly in the 'carrier' between the nose of the gun and a rubber pad at the back [top in the pic]. The 4 long bolts in the pictures. They move together.

The gun/carrier are held up by a return spring in the pedal. As the pedal is pressed, the gun/carrier is allowed to drop by its own weight until the upper die comes in contact with the workpiece.

At this point by continuing to press the pedal, the linkage begins to operate the trigger on the gun. At the same time additional pressure is put on the workpiece by the spring visible in the pictures. The size of the spring was chosen after extensive testing and seems to be suitable for any metal thickness.

Hope this clears it up. If you'd like any additional details, we can exchange notes privately.
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