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  #11  
Old 09-30-2017, 03:05 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Originally Posted by War Horse View Post
Thank you for this post, very good as I have brass lights, horns ect, had many these old files years ago, on the lookout for suitable ones now to re purpose them, would like to learn more about working with brass lights ect,once again thanks for the post
One ancillary tool is the Spike, which can be used well with a slapper :
P1040385.jpg

Using the little file-slapper with the (marlin) spike (phid) is one of my standard tool combos for brass parts.
P1030571.jpg
These pre-war Carellos were very thin, exceedingly scarce and were finally sourced, after 20 years, for a primo pre-War Alfa 2.9 Touring spyder.

That had to be purrrfect.
(Spike on right)
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  #12  
Old 10-01-2017, 04:53 AM
Iain Iain is offline
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Great article.
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  #13  
Old 10-01-2017, 05:04 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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+1
Nice Write up Kent.
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  #14  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:24 AM
sblack sblack is offline
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Busy with tool development?? Ah nevermind. Nobody here is interested in new tools...
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  #15  
Old 10-02-2017, 08:50 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Default smoothing with a smooth-faced steel slapper

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Originally Posted by sblack View Post
Busy with tool development?? Ah nevermind. Nobody here is interested in new tools...
yeh ...


I changed away from a mild steel slapper many years ago because it was so soft that I spent a lot of time blessing it with 180/320 paper before I could use it. I blame this on Dick Troutman, for telling me that he always looked at the back of the work for marks since the front gets sanded so much ...

Then I changed to spring steel - since it was working so well as the material for my finishing spoon.

So, I have maybe 6 hand tools that I never go to a job without: slapper, spoon, track dolly, hammer, spike, small hand-size shot bag.

Ryan STA 3.jpg
Mid-air collision between Gypsy Moth and a Ryan STA, People okay, parts bent.
Ryan STA 4.jpg
STA nosebowl - .050" 5086 alloy.
Ryan STA 5.jpg
slapper and track dolly.
Ryan STA 7.jpg
Get it smooth before check-filing. Leave some metal for the next guy.
Ryan STA 8.jpg
Check-sanded with 320
White 32 copy.jpg
Bangity-bangity-bang.
tinka-tinka-tinktinktink.
I was very careful with this job, so very little shrinking until I got to the twisted overlap area. I sweat some on that, but it all worked out to a paint-grade finish, just like original.
The efficiency and control of the slapper is the stuff of legends. You knock down two high spots and lift up a low spot with each whack. The single most efficient hand tool in my bag, bar none.
This is simply but one more way to use this tool ....
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Last edited by crystallographic; 10-02-2017 at 08:57 PM.
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  #16  
Old 10-03-2017, 12:29 AM
BTromblay BTromblay is offline
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Hi,

I recently met up with Kent and one of the items we talked about was sheet metal spoons. Most of the material, that I work in is aluminum, and I have several Martin spoons that I have never been happy with. Most off the shelf spoons are heavy and have a poor surface finish. In thin .025, .030, .040 3003 or 5052 aluminum a standard spoon or flipper depending on where you are from, is to big and will do more harm than good. Kent had shown me, that with his forged spring steel spoon that it tapers in thickness from the base and gets thinner towards the tip. What I like about it so far is, for heavier damage, you start out choked up on the spoon and as you work the dent you move out to the thin tip of the spoon. Nice light weight design, high surface finish for finish work and a multi tool in one. My heavy automotive spoons have been pushed, to the back of the drawer in my tool box.

Thanks Kent, for the article in spoons as slapper.

Cheers

Bill
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Last edited by BTromblay; 10-03-2017 at 12:31 AM.
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  #17  
Old 10-04-2017, 09:37 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Default Slappers vs Spoons

Quote:
Originally Posted by BTromblay View Post
Hi,

I recently met up with Kent and one of the items we talked about was sheet metal spoons. Most of the material, that I work in is aluminum, and I have several Martin spoons that I have never been happy with. Most off the shelf spoons are heavy and have a poor surface finish. In thin .025, .030, .040 3003 or 5052 aluminum a standard spoon or flipper depending on where you are from, is to big and will do more harm than good. Kent had shown me, that with his forged spring steel spoon that it tapers in thickness from the base and gets thinner towards the tip. What I like about it so far is, for heavier damage, you start out choked up on the spoon and as you work the dent you move out to the thin tip of the spoon. Nice light weight design, high surface finish for finish work and a multi tool in one. My heavy automotive spoons have been pushed, to the back of the drawer in my tool box.

Thanks Kent, for the article in spoons as slapper.

Cheers

Bill
Spoon vs slapper (TM Tech versions)
spoon and slapper TM Tech.jpg
These two hand tools perform similar smoothing and straightening functions though they are very different from each other.

The slapper is end heavy and the spoon is heavy in its center, though both have the same grip and are about the same length.

The spoon is forged out to a thin taper while the slapper remains constant in its thickness. Both tools are the same width.

I have gone though a lot of spoons over the years, borrowing from the senior craftsmen as well as finding Fairmounts, Pextos, Martins, Porters and Fergusons. (and maybe Porter-Fergus too ...??)
TM Spoons and old vintage.jpg
TM spoons,
Left, original forged from Bugatti leaf spring (1974) and current production forged spring steel.
Vintage Pexto, Ferguson, and Porter (right).

P1040403_copy.jpg
TM spoons, left, and Martin, right.
Largest Martin is 2lbs 14oz, medium is 1.5lbs, and the little spatula is 12oz
TM spoons are 14oz.

Several different ways to use these slappers and spoons, as mentioned previously ....
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Last edited by crystallographic; 10-04-2017 at 10:53 AM.
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  #18  
Old 10-04-2017, 11:39 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Kent,

As one who likes to make what he can when it is practical, I have a question about the leaf springs that are pirated into new service as spoons and slappers.

In the kitchen, I prefer older carbon steel Sabatier French knives specifically for the performance of the steel. As the company transitioned in the latter 20th century, they started using more recycled steel vs the virgin steel used in the past. The knives became less dependable for edge performance and are considered to be more likely to fracture when doing the same things done with older knives. It's amazing what an old good knife can do, compared to much of what is on the market nowadays.

In recycling leaf springs into tools, have you noted any similar changes in quality of the actual spring steel around a certain time frame, preferred manufacturer, ?? or is this not much of a concern?

Just wanted to ask before I needlessly took any parts off this old Bugatti I have out behind the studio...
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  #19  
Old 10-04-2017, 12:00 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Originally Posted by cliffrod View Post
Kent,

As one who likes to make what he can when it is practical, I have a question about the leaf springs that are pirated into new service as spoons and slappers.

In the kitchen, I prefer older carbon steel Sabatier French knives specifically for the performance of the steel. As the company transitioned in the latter 20th century, they started using more recycled steel vs the virgin steel used in the past. The knives became less dependable for edge performance and are considered to be more likely to fracture when doing the same things done with older knives. It's amazing what an old good knife can do, compared to much of what is on the market nowadays.

In recycling leaf springs into tools, have you noted any similar changes in quality of the actual spring steel around a certain time frame, preferred manufacturer, ?? or is this not much of a concern?

Just wanted to ask before I needlessly took any parts off this old Bugatti I have out behind the studio...
I found the Bug steel to be reliable.

Knives has sointeny changed product quality.
I like to buy old good knifes and re-condition them. Sometimes a good price can get a good knife. (Benchmade) (KoA, knives of Alaska) (Shun Fujii)

Industry today is changing sources for materials - sometimes really not good, and sometimes just not good. I buy my stock from reputable suppliers who can give certs.

Otherwise it is akin to shopping at the scrap yard or going to a casino, neither being especially relishable.
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  #20  
Old 10-04-2017, 01:10 PM
Rex_A_Lott Rex_A_Lott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffrod View Post
Just wanted to ask before I needlessly took any parts off this old Bugatti I have out behind the studio...
A chef,a sculptor , metalman, and now a clown....
I did have a fellow tell me he liked Ford springs from before the War for repurposing, but he was using them to make hatchets, using blacksmithing techniques. Good Luck
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