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  #1311  
Old 07-02-2019, 11:20 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
... Panel bond all around and mount the skin.

Jack, can you talk a bit about how you use the panel bond? I've used it a couple times and had failures. I roughed up the surface, cleaned with wax and grease remover, and clamped. Obviously, I'm doing something wrong. Perhaps I clamped it too tight??
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  #1312  
Old 07-02-2019, 01:16 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Kerry, It sounds like your prep is OK. I either rough up with 24 grit on a grinder for steel or 80 grit by hand on aluminum. Try to get the panels so they lay down in place without pulling them in too much with clamps. You might be squeezing out the adhesive if you're clamping too tightly. I think SEM makes a panel bond adhesive that has tiny grit like sand mixed into the adhesive that prevents bare spots from forming between the panels.
I used to use the 3M stuff very often when I was working and never had a failure. I would tack weld the stress areas at the corners and use a couple sheet metal screws along with spring clamps to hold panels in place until the adhesive cured. I didn't use vice grip style clamps very often, too much pressure.
There's a very big advantage to using adhesives for panel replacement (100% corrosion protection) anywhere there might be a potential water trap. Like dooor skins. They put a sheet with directions in with every tube. Follow them to the letter. Do some test pieces. It's important to weld in the stress areas.
I have hung bedsides on full size pick up trucks numerous times over the years without a problem. I would put about a1/2" weld bead at the corners and inside where the tail gate latches and glue everywhere else. Truck beds take a BEATING! Even when they're not loaded.
So, in short I think you should look at maintaining an even coating of adhesive in the bond area and welds at the stress points.
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  #1313  
Old 07-02-2019, 02:03 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Thanks Jack. I think I'm just clamping too hard.
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  #1314  
Old 07-02-2019, 04:41 PM
Sprint Relic Sprint Relic is offline
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I believe sumtu meant it was ineligible for the Riddler not that it wasn't worthy.

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Originally Posted by StingRay View Post
In his little shop (very clean little shop), on his budget with the tools he is using and done almost all of it on his own there is nobody out there at any level that would say they would do any better. They would all hire him! He'll drive this car. The 2 million dollar show cars are not likely to see any miles after they've run once or twice.
Originally Posted by sumtu View Post
Very nice but it cant compete for Great 8 or Riddler the build has been posted on the internet. All great 8 - Riddler contenders are to be built with out any pre or during construction / finished photos published any where till the first showing at Detroit . But this is a top notch build thanks for posting.
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  #1315  
Old 07-02-2019, 09:11 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Today I noticed a low spot on the left side of the second panel. (Circled) It wasn't there when I was making the panel. I think, when I was folding the hem along the side frame, I must have been pulling the skin as I was folding the hem. I can stretch this spot out and get it back up where it belongs with a hammer and dolly but I'll leave it until I'm finished with the last two panels.

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I started fitting the third panel. I can rivet this one along the front edge but the back edge will need to be glued and screwed. The bow that the back edge sets on is kicked back at an angle. The skin sets on the edge of that and overhangs by half the width of the bow. If I rivet the skin it will pull down too far and bend the skin along the edge of the bow. If I use sheet metal screws, I can adjust how tight the skin is pulled down.

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  #1316  
Old 07-03-2019, 01:54 AM
Wolweseun Wolweseun is offline
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Looking really good Jack
I like the two tone effect with the roof (something to consider when paint is done)
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  #1317  
Old 07-03-2019, 06:08 AM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
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Jack,


While this situation may involve a taper, have you ever used a spacer (similar to the grit in the one brand of adhesive) with rivets?
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  #1318  
Old 07-03-2019, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolweseun View Post
Looking really good Jack
I like the two tone effect with the roof (something to consider when paint is done)
If I had the ability this roof would be brushed stainless steel.
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  #1319  
Old 07-03-2019, 08:45 PM
Don Papenburg Don Papenburg is offline
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Wait a minute , what ability are you lacking ? If you can make a shinny stainless bumper , I would think that a brushed stainless top would be a cake walk.
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  #1320  
Old 07-04-2019, 06:29 AM
Jon Thompson Jon Thompson is offline
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Jack I think you and I are brothers from different mothers. The forces required for XYZ. Referring to the re-alignment of the roof frame. Keep up the great work!!
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