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  #31  
Old 06-19-2016, 09:19 AM
weldtoride weldtoride is offline
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Great thread!! Out here in the high country we really don't have a lot of hardwood stumps. Has anyone seen or used something like a butcher block setup where you would just replace the top with different shapes that you could store under the cart?
In his DVD, David Gardiner uses a chunk of rectangular timber on its side. After seeing that (highly recommend that DVD, btw) I made a couple of depressions in an offcut from a 2" thick piece of laminated veneer lumber, the cross lams and resin render it pretty hard. Short pieces should be free from a construction waste pile. It doesn't move around much on my wood bench top. My bench has a middle leg, I put it over that. Might need to be secured to a steel top to keep from chasing it around.
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Last edited by weldtoride; 06-19-2016 at 04:46 PM.
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  #32  
Old 07-23-2016, 09:00 AM
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BobD BobD is offline
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Default The stump

l joined June 1 this year and wanted to start accumulating some tools. Put the question out there and found that Elm is a hardwood. CaptonZap pm'd me and told me of a stump he had and didn't need. I was over there the next day and it took three guys to load it into the truck.
Then he showed me some of his tools that he has made I am so sorry that I didn't have my phone with me, there was some beautiful workmanship.
Stump Truck 1.jpgGot it home and rigged up and lifted.
Stump Truck 2.jpgDid weigh it and it came in at 248 lbs.
Now what to do with it, make two stumps.
IMG_20160702_131420434.jpg
Couldn't stand to see unfinished wood, so I cleaned them up.Stump day 2-middle.jpg
And this is what they have turned into. Stump day 2-end.jpg
I have been treating them with a 50/50 mixture of mineral sprits and linseed oil. I want to thank CaptonZap and assure him that his stump has found a new home and will provide me with my first home made tool.
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  #33  
Old 02-17-2017, 09:12 AM
LeviDennis LeviDennis is offline
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Default Thank you

Thank you very much for this thread. Very helpful!
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Last edited by LeviDennis; 02-17-2017 at 09:18 AM.
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  #34  
Old 06-16-2020, 08:11 AM
Cuda416 Cuda416 is offline
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This is a great thread and much appreciated. Having started, but not finishing autobody school 'way back when', I'm surprised there's no mention of a body file or something to scuff and look for high/low spots. Is there another "preferred" method that doesn't shave any metal off. Are you experienced folks just using your hands to feel for them?
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  #35  
Old 06-16-2020, 06:23 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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This is a great thread and much appreciated. Having started, but not finishing autobody school 'way back when', I'm surprised there's no mention of a body file or something to scuff and look for high/low spots. Is there another "preferred" method that doesn't shave any metal off. Are you experienced folks just using your hands to feel for them?

Scuffing with a rigid/stiff sanding block of aluminum or thick plastic does a good surface reveal, and 320/400 is a good grit. Great for thin metals going to polish.

Also using a fine whetstone with isop. alcohol as a lubricant.
Spot Check, gloss simulator, is a spray-on gloss film that lasts for many minutes on all surfaces. Wipe-off, cleans easily. Non-toxic.
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  #36  
Old 06-17-2020, 07:29 AM
Cuda416 Cuda416 is offline
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Scuffing with a rigid/stiff sanding block of aluminum or thick plastic does a good surface reveal, and 320/400 is a good grit. Great for thin metals going to polish.

Also using a fine whetstone with isop. alcohol as a lubricant.
Spot Check, gloss simulator, is a spray-on gloss film that lasts for many minutes on all surfaces. Wipe-off, cleans easily. Non-toxic.

Thanks Kent, somewhere I read to stay away from sanding boards but the reason was the "padding" they all have.



Using something rigid as a backer would certainly mitigate that problem. i appreciate the response. Looking forward to getting started.
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  #37  
Old 06-17-2020, 08:10 AM
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Default Getting Started

All you need to get started is the desire. In time, tools will come.
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  #38  
Old 06-17-2020, 09:29 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Thanks Kent, somewhere I read to stay away from sanding boards but the reason was the "padding" they all have.



Using something rigid as a backer would certainly mitigate that problem. i appreciate the response. Looking forward to getting started.

All my sanding blocks/boards have had rigid hard surfaces since 1980 - lexan, aluminum, and lucite. The padded stuff is a complete waste of time.
Shaping up my first steel Ferrari bumper for chrome learnt me a lot. (1972)
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