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  #531  
Old 12-28-2016, 04:29 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Bourget View Post
Jack said: "The distance from the impact to the edge of the sheet is over four inches and the tuck fans out about that much along the edge."

By this are you referencing the initial forming of the tuck or as you are "working it out" towards the edge?
Marc, I was referring to the original hit to start the tuck. I also dug up Wray's video as Dan suggested and it did have some helpful info. Thanks to both of you.
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  #532  
Old 12-28-2016, 04:57 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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A suggestion Jack. Not trying to be a know it all and you may already know this.

You'll find it is much more efficient to have the top of the stump about crotch level. That way, your elbow will still be bent and your stroke more efficient. Plus it is easier on your body. Also, while you certainly CAN crush tucks with a bat hammer, you'll find it is much more efficient with a cross pein plastic head. Wray Schelin and Joe Andrews sell them.

Finally, while I can't tell if your stump is flat or has a dish in it, if it doesn't, you'll find that a dish in a wooden stump will hold the tuck in place and help it to shrink much easier. If your dish is cone shaped, you can actually create the tuck by whacking the metal held over the dish and then simply crush it down.
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  #533  
Old 12-28-2016, 06:55 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
A suggestion Jack. Not trying to be a know it all and you may already know this.

You'll find it is much more efficient to have the top of the stump about crotch level. That way, your elbow will still be bent and your stroke more efficient. Plus it is easier on your body. Also, while you certainly CAN crush tucks with a bat hammer, you'll find it is much more efficient with a cross pein plastic head. Wray Schelin and Joe Andrews sell them.

Finally, while I can't tell if your stump is flat or has a dish in it, if it doesn't, you'll find that a dish in a wooden stump will hold the tuck in place and help it to shrink much easier. If your dish is cone shaped, you can actually create the tuck by whacking the metal held over the dish and then simply crush it down.
Thanks for the input,Kerry. I used to have this stump on a roller cart that raised it up but the garage floor has a ridiculous grade to it and even with the wheels chocked I ended up chasing it all over the garage. When I put the stump back on the ground I did notice that it was a little less ergo-correct but just got on with business. I considered scouting out a new stump also since just last year this one developed a full length crack that goes in to the center. I never gave much thought to ergonomics but what you're saying about ideal height makes sense. Even on the cart it was never at crotch height
As for the plastic hammers, I have a couple. They're way back in the bottom drawer where they've rested virtually unused for decades. I could never develop a "feel" for them, especially while tuck shrinking. I always had a problem with them when trying to close the tuck. At the point when the tuck starts getting a sharp bend, the hammer slides off the peak if you don't hit it exactly right. The wood mallets and bat hammers don't do that.
Today I was watching the Jag quarter video Wray did and noticed that he was having the same problem sometimes. If you watch it you'll see it. It really isn't that much of a problem and if I took the time to be a little more accurate I could get past that problem. I guess my point is that I am familiar and comfortable with wood mallets so I instinctively reach for one. I have a few and one that I really like. It needs to be replaced since one of the faces, from use and abuse, looks more like a broom than a mallet. Maybe I'll dig out the plastic and give it another shot.
Also, my stump does have a dish but I think it's too small for this. It's about 7 or 8 inches diameter and about 2 inches deep. I think I'm going to make that into a teardrop or comma shape, or maybe just an oval tomorrow.
Usually when I do a tuck, I am putting in the initial blow like you see in the last picture. Then to crush, I would be holding the panel away from me with the tuck edge dug into the hollow face nearest to me and hammering toward me on the tuck walking it up the hollow toward the edge. This works fine for the smaller stuff but a radius this large needs a larger dish.
Sometimes I do what I do because it has worked in the past, without considering that every job is different. Lesson learned; Think about what I'm doing and keep an open mind.
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  #534  
Old 12-28-2016, 09:07 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Like using an ewheel, there are lots of ways to tuck/stump shrink. Here is a video that my son Kris did back when he worked for me and we were running up and down the interstates selling ewheels. It shows how we use the plastic hammer and also the height factor. Kris is 6-8" so this bag stand is pretty tall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkaCJ5gC3jI
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  #535  
Old 12-29-2016, 10:17 AM
blue62 blue62 is offline
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Hi Jack
I just wanted to say hello.
Your posts are always interesting and informative.
Every few weeks I go back and read this build from the beginning.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to post your build.
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  #536  
Old 12-29-2016, 10:00 PM
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I needed to get a couple things worked out before I went on with the sheet metal work. First I needed a larger dish in my stump so I modified that by making a larger radius along the outer edge. I'll try it as it is and if I need to change it further, I will.

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Second, I needed to work out how I would be attaching the skirt because that will have to be considered when making the lower edge of the fender and the upper framework of the skirt. On the older Ford Explorer tailgates they used two very strong, very compact bear claw style latches. They are rod and lever actuated with a door ajar sensor. I don't need the sensor, I need to convert them to cable operated, and make some mounting tabs at the bottom. The two on the left are original. The two on the right have been modified.

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Also, these latches had crazy strong springs that weren't needed so I torched them and removed them completely. I'll let gravity do the work. If you look closely you can see that I drilled a hole in the case and also through the release lever inside. I'll thread a cable adjuster into the case and run the wire through the lever with a lock nut. There will be two of these on the upper edge of each skirt along with three alignment pins. There will also be three Dzus fasteners along the bottom edge.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 12-29-2016 at 10:06 PM.
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  #537  
Old 12-30-2016, 08:09 PM
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It's starting to take shape but it's not right in front and along the top edge yet. The forward area rolls inward almost 90 degrees within the first 8" or so. I have it almost there but I didn't go go inward far enough with the tucks. The front edge and along the upper front are still about an inch away from the buck.

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I need to go deep into this already shaped panel and do some monster tucks. Rather than beating them in, I whipped up a down and dirty deep throat tucking tool with a 1/2" gap. Then I clamped the panel to a 1/2" steel plate and captured the tucks. After that I smoothed them out on the stump.

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Much better. Next, I used the laser to locate a straight tipping line along the lower edge at the slot in the stringer.

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  #538  
Old 12-30-2016, 08:22 PM
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I laid some 1" tape along the laser line. I'll trim along the bottom of the tape and tip the flange along the top edge of the tape giving me a one inch flange that should slide right into the slot in the stringer. After I cut the excess material off, I taped along the new edge on the inside and transferred the bend line to the inside with a marker.

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I needed a wide flange down here but at the front, the flange was too wide to shrink into a tight radius so I had to trim it down to 3/4" in this area.

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It fits much better now. I'm within 1/4" in a couple spots up front and most of it lays flat on the buck. I still have to work the top edge to fit the buck but overall, I'm closing in on it. I won't bother getting an exact fit yet. I will need to do one more wash over with the wheel and that will probably move the perimeter a little so I'll tighten it up at that time.

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  #539  
Old 12-30-2016, 08:26 PM
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I just looked back at these pictures and realized I'm a freakin slob when I'm working!!!
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  #540  
Old 12-30-2016, 08:52 PM
NEB Alan NEB Alan is offline
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Default What mess?

I went back and looked at your bench and floor. I do not see a problem, only the necessary tools are laying around.
Keep posting the great work! I am learning every day.
Thank you.
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