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-   -   1950 Austin Devon (https://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=19911)

Reno 07-29-2020 06:14 PM

1950 Austin Devon
 
6 Attachment(s)
I was happily working away on the 1/4 scale Willys when this popped up on Craigslist. Finding this site and seeing the fabulous work prompted me to build a street rod.

Attachment 57045[ATTACH]

I settled on a 2016 3.6L V6 with the 8L45 transmission for power and then Heidt coilover Mustang 2 narrowed 5" for the front and a jaguar XKE IRS rear. These allow the track to stay close to stock with minimal fender fattening.
I boxed the frame in front and spread slightly to accept the LGX and built the rear crossmember.

Attachment 57046

Attachment 57047

Then mocked up with engine roughly positioned.

Attachment 57048

and with the body back on the frame.

Attachment 57049

Attachment 57050

Reno 07-29-2020 06:42 PM

The firewall will need to be recessed, and with the setback I thought longer doors were in order. I was going to stretch these, but located a pair of
Dorset doors that are 7" longer. I will need to move the "B" post back and then use the frame of the rear door to create the quarter window.

I haven't figured out the best method to close the rear gap, so I'm looking for suggestions. I will cut out the "C" post and end up with longer quarter window like the Dorset. The joggle at the rear door frame is single layer so I can either just fill the gap with weld using the rear half of the door, or extend the skin of the front half and end up with lap weld at the quarter.

The other change is the sunroof drains run down the "A" post and "C" post. It is in very nice shape metalwise, but most of the mechanism and weatherstripping is shot. I expect I'll have to eliminate it if I can't put together some sort of seal system. This brings up the same question. Fill the existing gap with weld, or bridge it with strips lap welded in a joggle?

Kerry Pinkerton 07-29-2020 06:58 PM

That will look great as a 2 door!

Reno 07-29-2020 07:09 PM

Yep, that is what I thought, with the added bonus in that only 15000 were built from 1947 until early 1949.
They both had the same wheelbase so I'm optimistic that the door will match the cowl. Otherwise from what I have seen on this site, just make your own.

Kerry Pinkerton 07-29-2020 07:56 PM

A lot of folks convert 4 doors to 2 doors. You can do it.

Reno 08-10-2020 10:50 AM

2 Attachment(s)
I received the Dorset doors, so they will be my next challenge.

Attachment 57113

Attachment 57114

Antoine_P 08-10-2020 12:43 PM

What a cool project! I am in to follow!
Good luck with the doors, they will need some work but all worth it!
Cheers

Antoine

crystallographic 08-10-2020 03:22 PM

Along with Antoine et al, this body style is cool and can definitely use full-length doors.
Once the body is set and the doors are cleaned off and mocked up, I think solutions will come along. The Dorset pair offer dimensions and some parts, but may not be "whole" enough without sections.:confused:
Fun project!:)

Reno 08-10-2020 08:41 PM

Thanks guys. I confirmed that the Dorset doors fit the Devon, then sent them to be blasted. The Dorset passenger door will take most of the sedan door plus a center infill section since they are 7" longer. On the driver's side I might get by with just the bottom and the front frame that carries the hinge mount plate.
The sliding roof channel is shot, and I won't have the C column for the rear drains, so I will weld it in solid and then brace diagonally to remove the B post. Kent, that recent comment you made about the rust blossom when drilling spot welds was timely, especially with this body. It's a great depth gauge.

Reno 08-13-2020 10:33 PM

7 Attachment(s)
I started on the doors by making a fixture to position the hinge bosses since the lower boss on the Dorset door was shot.

Attachment 57122

Then I set them up using the Devon door. There was a slight difference in the two doors which shows in the offset of the lower plate.

Attachment 57123

Here the front rust is cut away. I'm trying to stay away from shaped portions to simplify the weld finishing.

Attachment 57124

The fixture for locating the lower hinge bosses in position.

Attachment 57125

And then using it to position the patch piece so the trim line could be scribed.

Attachment 57126

A couple views of the gas weld beads using minimal filler and a little hammer and dolly work to keep it aligned. So far very little distortion.

Attachment 57127

Attachment 57128


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