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Learning to English Wheel and need help
I've been playing with some 20ga steel sheetmetal. I'm looking to repair some pickup fenders but just practicing right now.
As you can see I have been wheeling on this piece quite a bit. I used a Shrinker on the sides to get the curve started then just wheeled and wheeled. I can't get a radius to start in another axis. If you look at the second picture, the only radius in this side view is from what the Shrinker originally did. Why am i not able to get a radius to form in the second axis? I sort of think its because the radius i have built up is so large at this point, but don't really know. Your help would be appreciated. Hopefully i posted this in the correct forum. IMG_2055.jpg IMG_2057.jpg
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Instagram @RealRiotRacing Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 08-01-2020 at 07:19 PM. |
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Are your lower anvils true radius anvils or do they have flats????
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Dave Bradbury |
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Quote:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-4-...ish-wheel.html I am having only used the 3in radius wheel for now. It seems like this is the best for experimenting because i see the affects of Wheeling rather quickly I might eventually buy the 2.5 and Flat from trick tools: https://www.trick-tools.com/2_inch_width_697 I like the flat for cleaning up hammering
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Instagram @RealRiotRacing Last edited by WCRiot; 08-01-2020 at 02:07 PM. |
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Like you I am learning to wheel.
I have successfully made compound curves, by shaping the panel into a hollowing-block with a mallet and then smoothing the roughness out with the wheel. Use light pressure, there is no need to wind the anvil up tight; judging by the track marks on your panel you have too much pressure. I have also made a compound curve on a 1' x 1' test piece by only using the wheel, so that all four corners sat on the table. I need to find out how to wheel that test-piece flat again now, Cheers Charlie
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Why does dust stick to everything, but nothing sticks to dust? |
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First thing I would do is go to youtube.
Search for Peter Tommasini. View his video: light discussion about full radius anvils vs flats. View everything he does. Anvils with flats have a very narrow flat just in the center of the anvil. My guess is that the Eastwood anvils have flats but that is just a guess on my part. Perhaps someone here on the forum will jump in and confirm one way or the other. Then try to find some information on a wheeling exercise called shape in shape out. Also shrinking the two edges has probably locked a certain amount of shape into the panel. Get another piece about a foot square. mark all four edges an inch in from the edge. wheel top to bottom from on side to the other. Turn the panel 90 degrees and top to bottom from one side to the other again. Go slow keep your tracks close together and stay off your one inch margin. I repeat stay off the edges. you should begin to see equal radius in both directions. Perhaps purchase a book titled: Learning the English Wheel By William H. Longyard published by Wolfgang publications Inc. Bill put some good information in that book.
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Dave Bradbury Last edited by blue62; 08-01-2020 at 06:18 PM. |
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And English Wheel basics: http://covell.biz/english-wheel-techniques/ Both are excellent and very helpful, but neither help with trouble shooting or understanding why things aren't going your way.
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Instagram @RealRiotRacing |
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Have you a picture of what you want to achieve.
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Precision Panel Craft |
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Quote:
Really surprised no one has pointed this out yet, it's a mistake trying to put all the shape in a panel like you are trying to replicate (wheelhouse) with wheeling alone. That isn't how it's done. Wheeling is used in concert with other techniques many times, especially with a panel with a lot of shape. Specifically you should block along the middle/center of the panel using a blocking hammer and a sandbag. This will achieve the rough shape you are trying to duplicate. As you are doing this shrink the edges where it puckers and use the wheel to smooth out the "walnuts" from blocking. Keep repeating this till you get the shape you want. Taking profiles from the part you are trying to make will help you gauge your progress. Look into some videos that are available. Will help you understand the basics of shaping. Cheaper than a Class and will help you learn and understand so much more when you do take a class in person. David Gardiner's DVD ----- https://www.classicmetalshaping.co.uk/dvd/ Peter Tommasini's DVD Set 1-10 ----- http://www.handbuilt.net.au/dvds.html Kent White's Videos ------ https://www.tinmantech.com/products/dvds/ Start with David Gardiner's he gives an nice overview and gives you a lot to think about in his DVD. Then watch Peter's. Learn from The Master. He covers basic concepts early on and then in later DVD's build a 1/4 panel in one piece with nothing more than hand tools and a wheel. You will learn so much from those two guys. Kent White is active on this board his DVD's are awesome as well and cover a variety of topics. Highly recommended. You gotta crawl before you can walk and walk before you can run. This is very true of metalshaping. Too many focus on the machines without understanding many of the principles of shaping. David Gardiner makes a point of saying just that in his video. Watch those videos and once you understand them you will have a firm grasp on the principles and more. If you are serious about this it will be money well spent.
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
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I have seen some people just let the sheet glide across the wheels
and others that have grabbed the sides of the sheet and muscled it thru the wheels pushing the edges downward some to help put in the shape , so how much gliding and how much muscle ! Thanks
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Dave |
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You should make a paper pattern of the part, noting where shrinking is required and stretching (along the center) Use the pattern to cut your blank, make profiles of the shape as well. Block the along the center or where the shape is required, shrink the edges, where it puckers, as you go along. Wheel it to smooth out the lumps. Wheeling alone is suitable for gentle compound curves and forming some reverse curves but not deep shapes like a wheel well housing. A different shape but the same principle would be a motorcycle tank. You don't try to put all the shape in it from wheeling alone. You want to form the rough shape by blocking and shrinking the edges then use the wheel to planish or smooth the shape you've created.
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
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